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Thread: SG8 Pot location

  1. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by claudio View Post
    Thank you for your specifications, very instructive for me
    Breadboarding will prove if it will work
    The 7812 I got is the L7812ABV-DG from mouser
    Modified the PCB following your wise indications, please confirm the new cap is ok..


    Attachment 6932
    Good progress. And the 10nf is the same as 0.01uf
    The run from the 7812 (pin3) output goes to the TIP41 (pin 2) collector but also needs to go to the opto pin 5. You missed part of that in my comment on line 3.

  2. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by claudio View Post
    Thank you for your specifications, very instructive for me
    Breadboarding will prove if it will work
    The 7812 I got is the L7812ABV-DG from mouser
    Modified the PCB following your wise indications, please confirm the new cap is ok..


    Attachment 6932
    The LED etch under the opto looks very tight and is not required to carry much current. You could narrow the LED run to opto pin 2 down to approximately one third of present width and leave the - etch from terminal 6 at present width, then adjust their positions to give equal space on all sides.
    The new 10nf cap on the 555 pin 5 is non-polarized so the + label may be eliminated.

  3. #103
    Quote Originally Posted by Richard View Post
    The LED etch under the opto looks very tight and is not required to carry much current. You could narrow the LED run to opto pin 2 down to approximately one third of present width and leave the - etch from terminal 6 at present width, then adjust their positions to give equal space on all sides.
    The new 10nf cap on the 555 pin 5 is non-polarized so the + label may be eliminated.


    thx

    PCB_LED3_20180531222751.pdf

  4. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by claudio View Post
    Thank you for your specifications, very instructive for me
    Breadboarding will prove if it will work
    The 7812 I got is the L7812ABV-DG from mouser
    Modified the PCB following your wise indications, please confirm the new cap is ok..


    Attachment 6932
    I noticed you put labels back on the resistors. Why don't you put 150 (drop the ohm) on R13 and move the R13 label below like all the rest of your resistor labels.
    And there are 3 more caps that could use labels.
    The 555, H11D1 and 7812 could be labeled U-1, U-2 and U-3. The 2N4403, 2N4401, TIP41 and four IRFP260's would usually be labeled with a Q; Q-1 thru Q-7. Leaving Q-4 through Q-7 labels for the FET's allows you to add or remove FET's to your circuit in the future without adding confusion to your numbering sequence, being it is less likely you would add or remove the 2N4403, 2N4401 or TIP41 for future modifications.
    Being there is only one diode you may or may not label it D-1.
    I presume this circuit board layout will be mirror imaged for etching since the copper will be on the other side, but for layout purposes it is easier to look at it as you now have it so all thinking doesn't have to go through a reversing process, adding to confusion and error.

  5. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by claudio View Post
    Nice.
    You're very fast.

  6. #106
    Quote Originally Posted by Richard View Post
    I noticed you put labels back on the resistors. Why don't you put 150 (drop the ohm) on R13 and move the R13 label below like all the rest of your resistor labels.
    And there are 3 more caps that could use labels.
    The 555, H11D1 and 7812 could be labeled U-1, U-2 and U-3. The 2N4403, 2N4401, TIP41 and four IRFP260's would usually be labeled with a Q; Q-1 thru Q-7. Leaving Q-4 through Q-7 labels for the FET's allows you to add or remove FET's to your circuit in the future without adding confusion to your numbering sequence, being it is less likely you would add or remove the 2N4403, 2N4401 or TIP41 for future modifications.
    Being there is only one diode you may or may not label it D-1.
    I presume this circuit board layout will be mirror imaged for etching since the copper will be on the other side, but for layout purposes it is easier to look at it as you now have it so all thinking doesn't have to go through a reversing process, adding to confusion and error.
    done..
    I will test on breadboard and if it works will send to manufacture, conductivity is way better on manufactured PCB

    thank you

    PCB_LED3_20180603090714.pdf

  7. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by claudio View Post
    done..
    I will test on breadboard and if it works will send to manufacture, conductivity is way better on manufactured PCB

    thank you

    PCB_LED3_20180603090714.pdf
    Very nice, Claudio.
    One tiny thing, if you eliminate the "ohm" print on R13, the "150" will be readable.
    Best of luck with the breadboard version. Put the I.C.'s in sockets. Be sure to use fuses when you first fire it up. If you don't know what size fuse to use just start with smaller values and change to higher amp ratings as needed. Use the slow blow type fuse especially for big capacitor loads. Fuses are much easier to replace than repairing a carbon burn on the breadboard. Ask me how I know. LOL

    Richard Gieser

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