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Thread: SG8 Pot location

  1. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by claudio View Post
    Thank you Richard,

    is this the idea ?

    Attachment 6927
    Very good. I hope RS likes it too.
    When you fire up the circuit, if you look at the 150 ohm resistor with a scope (can't use a voltmeter because it's a short pulse) you should measure at least 1.5 volts drop across it indicating 10 milliamps, that's the same current that is going through the LED inside the optocoupler. If it is less than 1.5 volts you will need to change the resistor to 120 ohms or so.

  2. #92
    That looks good, 10 to 15ma is good for the opto......

    now make the short trace to Screw Pad 2 as fat as the rest of the trace.....

  3. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by claudio View Post
    Thank you Richard,

    is this the idea ?

    Attachment 6927
    I hope RS will chime in on this.
    It appears to me that you have pin 6 of the 4N35 opto going to the base of the TIP41. Pin 6 of the opto is the opto transistor base, I believe you want to use the opto emitter here (which is pin 4 of the opto) to go to the TIP 41 base. The base connection of the opto output transistor is usually not connected and rarely used for anything. The internal infrared LED is shining infrared light on the base of the opto internal transistor and that is how the opto transistor is turned on.
    Did you post the schematic of this circuit on this forum? Are you using the schematic posted by RS on 5-04-18? His H11D1 optocoupler is the same pinout as the 4N35 and RS's schematic shows the H11D1 opto pin 4 going to the base of the BD243C (TIP41).
    Claudio and RS, both, are you sure you want to run 12 volts into the 7812? I know that during normal operation the 12 volt battery will be getting charged so it will be running higher than 12 volts but the 7812 normally wants a minimum of 2 volts above its output rating (14 volts input to the 7812). How about a zener (maybe around 10 volts?) and resistor with a capacitor on the output? Here's where it would be nice to have component labels so I will call the battery on the left side of RS's schematic B-1 and the battery on the right side of the schematic B-2. During startup, B-2 voltage is unpredictable, but 10 volts should be expected on many occasions (?)
    Claudio, are you breadboarding the finalized version of this circuit before going to etching? Murphy's Law guarantee's that your etched board will NOT work if you don't breadboard the circuit first. (Murphy has been wrong on rare occasion as there are exceptions to every rule.)
    Last edited by Richard; 05-29-2018 at 12:32 PM.

  4. #94
    Good catch Richard..... Opto pin 4 to the Base of the TIP41, and Pin 5 to the 7812's output.....

    Most of the time, the Cap will not discharge down to the Battery voltage level and will have that 2V over the 7812..

    I have never seen this version Schematic that Claudio is using.... I had never used a 7812 for that use....

    A 10-12V zener diode with resistor and cap will do the trick, but even that is not needed, unless you are killing the base of the TIP41, by charging 24V Battery's

    The 4N35 has a Maximum Collector Emitter Voltage: 30 V
    H11D1 has a Maximum Collector Emitter Voltage: 300V much better choice when hitting it with Hi V spikes from a SG/SSG.....
    Last edited by RS_; 05-29-2018 at 02:01 PM.

  5. #95
    Senior Member Faraday88's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Richard View Post
    I hope RS will chime in on this.
    It appears to me that you have pin 6 of the 4N35 opto going to the base of the TIP41. Pin 6 of the opto is the opto transistor base, I believe you want to use the opto emitter here (which is pin 4 of the opto) to go to the TIP 41 base. The base connection of the opto output transistor is usually not connected and rarely used for anything. The internal infrared LED is shining infrared light on the base of the opto internal transistor and that is how the opto transistor is turned on.
    Did you post the schematic of this circuit on this forum? Are you using the schematic posted by RS on 5-04-18? His H11D1 optocoupler is the same pinout as the 4N35 and RS's schematic shows the H11D1 opto pin 4 going to the base of the BD243C (TIP41).
    Claudio and RS, both, are you sure you want to run 12 volts into the 7812? I know that during normal operation the 12 volt battery will be getting charged so it will be running higher than 12 volts but the 7812 normally wants a minimum of 2 volts above its output rating (14 volts input to the 7812). How about a zener (maybe around 10 volts?) and resistor with a capacitor on the output? Here's where it would be nice to have component labels so I will call the battery on the left side of RS's schematic B-1 and the battery on the right side of the schematic B-2. During startup, B-2 voltage is unpredictable, but 10 volts should be expected on many occasions (?)
    Claudio, are you breadboarding the finalized version of this circuit before going to etching? Murphy's Law guarantee's that your etched board will NOT work if you don't breadboard the circuit first. (Murphy has been wrong on rare occasion as there are exceptions to every rule.)
    Hi Richard,
    Yes!! only psychics can defy the Murrphy's Law....Intutive minds are no exception..
    Rgds,
    Faraday88.
    'Teaching can endure a quest for knowledge..but Learning solves an anomaly'

  6. #96
    Quote Originally Posted by RS_ View Post
    Good catch Richard..... Opto pin 4 to the Base of the TIP41, and Pin 5 to the 7812's output.....

    Most of the time, the Cap will not discharge down to the Battery voltage level and will have that 2V over the 7812..

    I have never seen this version Schematic that Claudio is using.... I had never used a 7812 for that use....

    A 10-12V zener diode with resistor and cap will do the trick, but even that is not needed, unless you are killing the base of the TIP41, by charging 24V Battery's

    The 4N35 has a Maximum Collector Emitter Voltage: 30 V
    H11D1 has a Maximum Collector Emitter Voltage: 300V much better choice when hitting it with Hi V spikes from a SG/SSG.....
    Hallo RS_ and Richard,

    thank you again , I am learning..

    I'm referring from this schematic coming from the JB and PL Books..
    SG-Cap_pulse-sch.jpeg

    H11D1 will be installed, I just didn't find the opto in the software...
    Will use 12V batteries
    Of course I will breadboard the circuit, I have all the components ready but unfortunately in this period of the year I do not have much time...

    updated circuit
    PCB_PCBetchLED2_20180530085545.pdf

  7. #97
    still looks like you have the opto output pins wrong, you need to use pins 4 and 5, not 5 and 6

  8. #98
    Quote Originally Posted by RS_ View Post
    still looks like you have the opto output pins wrong, you need to use pins 4 and 5, not 5 and 6


    PCB_PCBetchLED2_20180530163638.pdf

  9. #99
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    Presuming the left side pin on the PCB is number one on both the TIP41 and the 7812;
    the + etch needs to go to the 7812 pin 1, as you already have it.
    the 7812 pin 3 needs to go to TIP41 pin 2 and opto pin 5
    the 7812 pin 2 needs to go to the - etch
    opto pin 4 needs to go to the 2k resistor, as you already have it, and then TIP41 pin 1 (not pin 2).
    Labeling the TIP41 and 7812 pins 1, 2, and 3 would be nice. The bce pinout (base, collector, emitter) of the tip41 does not follow the convention that I have been accustomed to over the years with most other transistors being ebc. But that is what the datasheet on Mouser says so that is what I follow. Also notice that the TO-220 package of the 7812 pinout is IGO (input, ground, output) whereas the tiny TO-92 version of the 7812 (LM78L12 rated 100ma output) is OGI.
    The 1N4401 and the 1N4403 labels should be 2N4401 and 2N4403 and the yellow outlines should enclose all three pins, not just 2.
    The etch under the 555 from pins 4 and 8 can be combined to clean up the design a bit as they both go to the same place.
    Most applications of the 555 recommend a 0.01 microfarad capacitor from pin 5 to ground. You have good space available on the PCB and a nearby ground etch so it would be easy to add.

    Don't take my word for it, double check against the schematic. And I likely missed something.

    Keep up the good work.

  10. #100
    Quote Originally Posted by Richard View Post
    Presuming the left side pin on the PCB is number one on both the TIP41 and the 7812;
    the + etch needs to go to the 7812 pin 1, as you already have it.
    the 7812 pin 3 needs to go to TIP41 pin 2 and opto pin 5
    the 7812 pin 2 needs to go to the - etch
    opto pin 4 needs to go to the 2k resistor, as you already have it, and then TIP41 pin 1 (not pin 2).
    Labeling the TIP41 and 7812 pins 1, 2, and 3 would be nice. The bce pinout (base, collector, emitter) of the tip41 does not follow the convention that I have been accustomed to over the years with most other transistors being ebc. But that is what the datasheet on Mouser says so that is what I follow. Also notice that the TO-220 package of the 7812 pinout is IGO (input, ground, output) whereas the tiny TO-92 version of the 7812 (LM78L12 rated 100ma output) is OGI.
    The 1N4401 and the 1N4403 labels should be 2N4401 and 2N4403 and the yellow outlines should enclose all three pins, not just 2.
    The etch under the 555 from pins 4 and 8 can be combined to clean up the design a bit as they both go to the same place.
    Most applications of the 555 recommend a 0.01 microfarad capacitor from pin 5 to ground. You have good space available on the PCB and a nearby ground etch so it would be easy to add.

    Don't take my word for it, double check against the schematic. And I likely missed something.

    Keep up the good work.
    Thank you for your specifications, very instructive for me
    Breadboarding will prove if it will work
    The 7812 I got is the L7812ABV-DG from mouser
    Modified the PCB following your wise indications, please confirm the new cap is ok..


    PCB_LED3_20180531123106.pdf

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