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  • Tesla Solar Panel

    Hi Everyone,

    I would like to get in touch with some Folks who have Practical experience with Tesla Solar Panel or "Radiant Energy Receiver".
    I have conducted the last Days some experiments and being now a little bit frustrated about the outcome so far.
    I'm sure I get most mistake out of the way and being now on the Point where I just trust my Meter any longer.

    I would appreciate some sophisticated Comments

    Love and Light

    BNW

  • #2
    This guy seems to have been one of the first on YouTube doing what you're proposing. Here's the first video in his RE series:
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CwUA9...oUmfg&index=31
    Bob

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    • #3
      If you want to make a Tesla RE receiver than all you have to do is create a large surface are of conductive material, suspend this matterial above ground as a far as possible, then use that as a positive potential. The earth creates the negative potential which allows for the flow of current. Now all you need is an electrostatic motor that works off of potential gradients and hook that up to a generator
      Otherwise you can get a solar panel with a DC output and step that up and put it through a rotary spark gap. Either way there is a means for capturing RE. It all depends on what you want it to do with it.

      Comment


      • #4
        Hi Bob and Ajay,

        Thank you for replying I will give you some more facts so that you may can evaluate where I am now!

        I produce't 3 different sheets of Insulated Metal the last 2 weeks.
        one is made from Stainless steel and is covert with about 3 layers of transparent Epoxy lacquer (around 3 by 4 ft)(1.22cm x 92 cm).
        one is made from galvanized Steel (same as in the Youtube Video!) also coted with the same lacquer(around 3 by 4 ft)(1.22cm x 92 cm)
        and another one of galvanized Steel is covert in plastic Foil (UV resistant!) as shown in the youtube Video. (around 2ft by 3ft) be course the palsic was not available that large!)

        I have a ground rod made from Copper that is about 2 meters deep into the soil what give me a favorable grounding.

        I have made my self a bridge ractefier from 4 x 1N4007 diode!

        The smaller plate in plasic I put up on a long bambus pipe about 6 meter high!

        I got some readings from between 50 and 200 millivolt

        I triet different type of Capacitor 450 microfarad 450volt (that was a little bit optimistic I realist soon after

        so then I went down to a cap of 2.2 micro and 10 volt.
        there slowly things was building up but not higher then 50 millivolt after 2 hour.

        As well I hat the suspicion that may by my meter was coursing the buildup and not the plate!

        so Hope for further replies and may some clues.

        Love and Light

        BNW

        Comment


        • #5
          BTW;

          my gole is actualy to Charge a 12 volt Battery with it.

          But lets see!

          Comment


          • #6
            If I were you, I would not use plastic. It accumulates energy much worse than a natural dielectric. Tesla used Mica, but wood or carbon should work also. You may want a DC capacitor of a high capacity to put in between the ground and the aerial to accumulate the potential difference,and it will protect your circuit from potential overload. Remember that the atmosphere grows potential the higher up you go, so get your aerial as high as possible.

            I saw a video of a guy who connected a sheet of copper to an RC helicopter and connected a wire to it to see how the potential grew the further up the helicopter went (on youtube, cant find link). It made a big difference in potential the further up he went.

            The best way to charge a battery in my opinion would be to connect a DC cap of small capacity to the positive end of your big cap. Then I would connect the output to the positive of the battery, and the negative of the battery to the negative side of the big capacitor. This way it allows for pulsed potential to enter the battery but still prevents from circuit overload. Pulsed HV de-sulphates the battery and leaves residual charge to charge it up.

            I talked to an EE who built one of these aerials and he told me that he almost died trying it out because the voltage acquired can be so high if you do it right that it could kill you, so be careful. Remember, Tesla did all of the equations first, so he knew what he was going to get out most of the time. Good luck!

            Comment


            • #7
              Thank you for your Opinion Ajay,

              Can you may clarify something for me?

              You quote:

              The best way to charge a battery in my opinion would be to connect a DC cap of small capacity to the positive end of your big cap. Then I would connect the output to the positive of the battery, and the negative of the battery to the negative side of the big capacitor. This way it allows for pulsed potential to enter the battery but still prevents from circuit overload. Pulsed HV de-sulphates the battery and leaves residual charge to charge it up.


              That would be helpful!

              I for my self was intended to use the "inverted environment potential switch" that was designed from John in his first book "Free Energy Generation" page 49 in the first edition I got in 2009!

              I'm to some degree familiar with the effects on the Battery as well I went to the Conference in 2010

              But I can not get as i stated before the Huge Potential at 6m I shut at least get something!

              I also read in the Patend from Tesla a "shiny Metal Plate" with a "transparent coating"
              ( to be honest, I was wondering about that statement from the beginning on what kind of transparent coating was available in 1910,except Glass!)

              But Mica,Wood or Carbon are not transparent at all!?

              Or do I mistaken here?

              Love and Light
              BNW

              Comment


              • #8
                Hi,

                I may I have to correct my statement in my last post. I learn t that there is something like Transparent Mica.
                Its not like glass but somehow transparent, but it is may by made out Mica powder with some bounding agent. and it looks like the bounding agent is epoxy. So then if it is epoxy then I right there where is start of.
                What about Glass and Silicone around the edge?

                and can someone may tell me if it really have to be transparent or not.

                Thanks
                Love and Light

                BNW

                Comment

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