Weasels build

[min2oly]

I like this experiment very much. Yes 900 might be too much, although, did you try tuning by moving the trigger coil farther away from the wheel? I'm sure you did, this should compensate for too many turns. also, try leaving the coil in place and pulling the core farther from the wheel.

Do you have a scope or computer sound visual analyzer software? Nice to watch when you are doing this.
Kind Regards,
Patrick

ok we have been fiddling arround a bit today with the new toy.
components are for now on a breadboard, i know its not good but its fine for fiddling.....

but..... for fun we had this old 2 fillar coil hanging arround from the verry first step .....
i put it on as a seperate trigger..... so the main coil is now wired only to transistors and trigger goes to both fillars on the other coil and we can play arround with timing of the attraction

[ATTACH=CONFIG]3542[/ATTACH]

now we notice the folowing.
rpm goes up from 280RPM from standard single coil setup to 400 rpm..... with same base resistance on the trigger and looking for good timing on the trigger coil.
also here big diffrences depending on the timing from 200 rpm to 400

but a large drop on amps on the charge side. 1 amp in single coil setup to 0.5 amps at 300 rpm or 0.3 at 400rpm

annyone outthere been playing with this setup???

i have to say that the trigger coil has 900 turns of wire on it
maybe this is to much for matching the setup of the other coil.......

kind regards
weasel

[wild weasel]

hello patrick

no i have no scope yet and a sound analizer?????

i believe my base resistance of 470 ohm is a bit to much for this test. potmeter is down to 0 ohms for best result.
now we go on and try to lower these and compensate with pot
we have 2 potmeters 10 turns and 100 ohm to regulate more precise

kind regards
weasel

[min2oly]

Sounds like you're on top of it.
I mention the visual sound analyzer and provide links in this post:
click here.

KR,
Patrick

ps.. doesn't feel right to address you as weasel so I left that out.

hello patrick

no i have no scope yet and a sound analizer?????

i believe my base resistance of 470 ohm is a bit to much for this test. potmeter is down to 0 ohms for best result.
now we go on and try to lower these and compensate with pot
we have 2 potmeters 10 turns and 100 ohm to regulate more precise

kind regards
weasel

[wild weasel]

hello patrick

i check your option out later this evening sounds intresting to have another option than a scope.
annyhow the more we play and fiddle arround the more strange things seem to happen.... i love this machine
the trick is finding what is good and what is bad and there are so manny mods out there .... its a bit confusing sometimes....

by the way you can call me stephan

[wild weasel]

ok folks

just a quick question now. more news tonight

what happens if you put more voltage on the input side then the charge battery?
lats say 19 volts input and a 12 volt battery on the charge.

is thisd bad for the battery or the system or is this not harmfull at all.
the thing is i see a lot better performance this way
but more news on this later on couse there is also another strange pheneomenon going on in my rig

regards
weasel

[Tom C]

Weasel,

If you are pulse charging the input voltage is not as relevant, except for the component design limits. the diodes are 1000 volt, the mjl is good up to 50? volts so that is o.k. your spike off of the SG is upwards of 200 volts.

Tom C

[wild weasel]

im back at the shed

now what we have done so far.....
now there are 2 separate 8 fillar coils running on the same wheel
both with a trigger and not connected to eachother and charging diffrent batterys
number 1 is running on 19 volt power supply using 2.5 amps
number 2 is running from a battery at 12.7 volt using 1.5 amps

output of number 1 is 2 amps
output of number 2 also 2 amps

rpm stable at 300 rpm or with some tuning at both 350 rpm

just running on 1 coil gives me 260 rpm and 0.9amps output and same input

so i have now more rpm with this setup and on the flip side much more output

the srange thing however is on one of the batterys.
we filled that one with alum mix aprox 1 to 5 ratio in weight
this morning it was on the wheel at 15.8 volt.... now currently at 15.1. now first question here is this safe?
i never knew of a battery going this high

its now resting and i post back on its standing after an hour and then discharge

regards
weasel

[Tom C]

you do not want to overcharge a battery you will boil it, warp the plates and turn it into a doorstop. 15.3 is a good spot to stop.

Tom C

[wild weasel]

i was verry surprised to see it go up so high
after resting it was at 12.8 and is now a couple of hours at discharge

lets see what happens

regards
weasel

[wild weasel]

back in the shed after a good holliday

now running solid 430 rpms
i think the bearings are finally run in fine

now lets start charging again and see what has changed

[wild weasel]

ok we have things working good now.
radiant is showing in our load cycles.
we measure 0.2 amps on the charge and leave the battery on for 24 hours (80AH battery)
discharge with a light bulb of 55 wats so pulling 4.5 amps and its burning every day for 5 hours till it hits 12 volt flat
i just wonder what this battery will do after its fully reconditioned.... its now at 1/3 of its rated power

i just love this machine
thanks john bedini for charing this tech
and all you folks for the help so far

kind regards
weasel

update as we go along

[wild weasel]

i have been searching for a good answer for a few weeks but the more i search the more confused i get.

the question is
when a 90 AH battery is fully charged and i want to see if its delivering its full 90 amps
till witch voltage should i discharge?

for test i use a light bulb pulling 4.5 amps so i should burn for 20 hours

i found some references stating not to discharge below 12.5 some others say not below 12 and some others say to 10.5volts
but then if i go to 12 even on a new battery its not on its rating.

regards
weasel

[Tom C]

the manufacturer of your battery will tell you exactly what fully discharged is. you want 80 percent depth of discharge or DOD the type of battery (lead acid starter battery, or deep cell, sla, agm, hybrid starter. deep cycle which is usually a marine battery) determines where it can be safely discharged to at what amp draw.

you need to contact your manufacturer and find out. also that rating is the rating in perfect condition. if its cold amp rating will be lower up to 50 percent lower. if the battery is new it may not be fully formed, you need to cycle it on a standard charger slow charge up to 15.3 until it reaches its rated amp hours. if it is sulfated it may need a lot of reconditioning. if it was frozen outdoors for a winter, it may need 200 to 300 cycles and it still may not come up because of internal damage.

The SG is not magic it cannot repair a physically damaged battery. and it may never go back to its full rating, but you may get usable power out of it.

Tom C

[wild weasel]

thanks tom for the info

the bats i use are old car batterys so regular lead acid starter batterys

the one i want to test now is a 90AH bat and in discharge it holds 5 hours till it reaches 12 volt
on the wheel it is at 15.7 volts max and standing at 13.3 volts
when i hook it to the light it drops in 10 minutes to 12.6 and holds till it hits 12 volts after 5 hours

manufacturer is unknown
just have the data mentioned 90AH battery and cold cranking amps (not known now. i edit later to fill it in)

and about 5 other ones sitting arround to be done

regards
weasel

[Allen R.]

Hi Wild Weasel. That is really good for a used car battery. Will it crank a car yet? Judging by your voltage and discharge I guess that it will. Don't expect full AH rating from those starter batts. They are designed for a starting amps just for a few seconds. Good to hear you only take them to 12v. I stop at 12.2 Thanks for sharing!

al