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Thread: Bedini-Cole 1971 to 1984 built from lab notes WINDOW MOTOR

  1. #11
    Hi All,
    Starts shaking a little a 900rpm.

    Best RPM requires about 25deg timing advance with hall triggering. Advanced from mag flat perp to coil.
    I wound 300T with 3/#22.
    I tried it first with trigger strands. At 30v it would take .3A and do 650rpm. The power winding: 15.2ohm.
    With the hall triggering using the 3 strands in parallel it would only do about 1000rpm/ advanced timing.
    3/4"D steel shaft. grease in bearings.
    I'm concerned about the effect of the AL mag keepers. Would these be a hindrance eddy currentwise?
    How 'bout the AL rotor.
    I was expecting more torque and higher rpm than what I've seen so far with the one coil. 3 strands in parallel:5.2ohm.
    I'll get it balanced and build a quality frame.
    Tom, what would be a good starting turn#, winding 3 coils?
    Thanks,
    bro d



    tst stnd 1.jpgtst stnd 2.jpg

  2. #12
    Senior Member Tom C's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Pacific Northwest
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    1,888
    Don,

    I have not made a multi coil machine, add or remove turns to get what you want.

    Tom C


    experimental Kits, chargers and solar trackers

  3. #13
    The window motor can preform better if you use the coil trick.

    greets,
    JP

  4. #14
    Hi JP,
    Interesting direction.
    I'm focusing on this thread title WM.
    Your discussed motor is not a window motor.
    In a window motor the rotor is always surrounded by the coil(s).
    Hence "Window" motor.
    Be encouraged. We all have to investigate.
    Thanks,
    bro d

  5. #15
    Hi All,
    Got the rotor balance and it's good for 10,000rpm.
    Auto machine shop did it.
    I'm in the middle of building a small cnc desktop Mill/router so the WM may be delayed for a bit.
    Hoping to mill my own cct boards etc....plus get quainted with the tech and sofware with and eye for moving into a "big boy" cnc mill.
    bro d

  6. #16
    Hi All,
    CNC machine is up and running so I can start on the
    WM 3 coil frame.
    It won't be CNC'd because the CNC machine is mostly an engraver (small) for lettering and pcb's
    Going to use pvc.
    Machinable and super glue is stronger than pvc so good joints are reliable.
    Got to think and plan carefully with regard to accuracy.
    Thanks,
    bro d

  7. #17

    Running with 3 coils.

    Hi All,
    At this point I need some expert advice.
    I wound 3 coils, 120T apiece, #19 wire.
    In parallel it is an amp hog and not feasable.
    In series seems to be the right direction.
    I desire to wind 3 coils to run slow and with hi torque.
    Do I need to go with parallel:
    Many turns
    Smaller wire
    Or do I need to go series:
    #15 or so wire and 350-400T total?

    I would greatly appreciate a tip or 2 form John Bedini.
    I understand hooking trannies in parallel and beta matching.
    I need a master's tip on the coils for torque.
    It's hard for me to believe that John B's 10,000rpm machine has coils in parallel.

    Speculation from non builders will not help at this point.

    The balancing job on the rotor is great.
    I had it running at 1350rpm (26lb rotor) the 2 frame end plates were attached to the shaft only, not the the base or to one another.
    Totally stable. Also, was able to tune the cct so that at 38v 1.1A there was no heat.
    The only heat on the whole rig was the bearings were slightly warm to touch and transferred to the shaft

    The 3 coil run pic is the rig running at 1350rpm as discribed.
    I'll be making a timing wheel and hall holder that matches the pvc frame.

    frame pic 2.jpg3 coil run pic.jpg

    Thanks,
    bro d
    Last edited by brodonh; 04-23-2014 at 03:53 PM.

  8. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by brodonh View Post
    Hi All,
    At this point I need some expert advice.
    I wound 3 coils, 120T apiece, #19 wire.
    In parallel it is an amp hog and not feasable.
    In series seems to be the right direction.
    I desire to wind 3 coils to run slow and with hi torque.
    Do I need to go with parallel:
    Many turns
    Smaller wire
    Or do I need to go series:
    #15 or so wire and 350-400T total?

    I would greatly appreciate a tip or 2 form John Bedini.
    I understand hooking trannies in parallel and beta matching.
    I need a master's tip on the coils for torque.
    It's hard for me to believe that John B's 10,000rpm machine has coils in parallel.

    Speculation from non builders will not help at this point.

    The balancing job on the rotor is great.
    I had it running at 1350rpm (26lb rotor) the 2 frame end plates were attached to the shaft only, not the the base or to one another.
    Totally stable. Also, was able to tune the cct so that at 38v 1.1A there was no heat.
    The only heat on the whole rig was the bearings were slightly warm to touch and transferred to the shaft

    The 3 coil run pic is the rig running at 1350rpm as discribed.
    I'll be making a timing wheel and hall holder that matches the pvc frame.

    frame pic 2.jpg3 coil run pic.jpg

    Thanks,
    bro d
    that's quite impressive. Something like this is what i would like to put in a electric car, some day

  9. #19
    Senior Member John_Koorn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    1,077
    bro d, what's the DCR on each of the windings? Looks like you don't have enough wire for each of the windings. You should run them in parallel.

    John K.

  10. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by RS_ View Post
    that's quite impressive. Something like this is what i would like to put in a electric car, some day
    Hi RS, I sent you an email hoping to get some insight.
    bro d

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