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Its alive! My 2nd ssg Thanks John - your a brave soul.

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  • Its alive! My 2nd ssg Thanks John - your a brave soul.

    Hey everyone, just wanted to share my build of the SSG machine that is now running and working nicely, keeping the construction as closely as possible to the original design. With the future addition of the fan and the capacitor, it should meet all the correct specifications. (getting there just wanted to share)

    Specs:
    The wheel is an aluminum 22in bicycle rim with (19) 7/8 x 1 7/8 x 3/8 #8 magnets, all north facing, spaced 3” inches apart. (I could not fit the 24 and space them 3”- however it wasn’t clear whether it was 3” from center)
    Running in attraction mode.

    The main coil is 130 feet long with twisted pairs (7) number 22 wire and (1) trigger number 26 wire. I have used 100 ohms resisters with a 1k potentiometer. Currently tuned to 175 ohms, but still adjusting by eye and feel, as I do not have the proper testing equipment. Everything is running cool.

    10 awg wire to all batteries

    Interesting observation is that the NE bulbs during testing did not all light up together in unison, each lit up at a different sequence. Can this be tuned? Or is this normal? (is this where John mentions the matching of the transistors?

    Please note, although I was always intrigued by this machine, I have never soldered before. I took the time to learn to solder first just to build this machine and it was worth it! I already saved 2 batteries.

    Waiting to do some COP testing. (waiting on the amp meter)

    Perhaps it’s time to order DVD 33 in order to get acquainted with the different operating modes and work on getting a capacitor on it. If it wasn’t for the SG beginner’s manual, I would not have gotten this far this fast.

    The forum has some remarkable contributors. Hoping to do my part, any advice on the best way to learn about adding the capacitor and move it forward would be most appreciated. Please share any comments or words of wisdom. Willing to do whatever it takes.

    Click image for larger version

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  • #2
    Well Done Kevin! Yeah, you are right about the transistors and globes. You need to match all components first. Make a tester from the schematic in Intermediate Bedini SG -page 11.
    If you don't have the testing equipment, ie scope, neither do I...one thing you can do is make a timing light to see pulses per magnet.
    Get an LED and a 330ohm resistor on the leg opposite the flat side of the globe...hook an alligator lead to each leg.
    You can attach it to the power windings or the trigger winding.
    I use the trigger winding.
    Attach 1 lead to top trigger where it comes out of the coil and attaches to pot and the other end where it goes to Primary negative.
    Oh , First you will need to put reflective tape on the middle of each magnet to reflect the timing light.
    An alternative is if you shine the timing light on the spokes near the rim.
    As the wheel speeds up you should be able to see many spokes, decreasing down to one wide "spoke"..same with magnets on rim.
    You will see how the draw on ammeter corresponds with number of pulses you can see on spokes or magnets(reflective tape).
    But don't leave it connected, it takes away some charge, same as all the meters do.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2C1Y_...ature=youtu.be
    Cheers Kevin.
    Last edited by D Rhodes; 11-23-2013, 10:59 PM.

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    • #3
      Thanks D Rhodes,

      nice trick with the led timing light. So, the goal is to get it to one concentrated pulse? Will that be comparable to the wave structure I'm seeking on a scope (if I had one)? But why a 330 ohm resister? How is that calculated and can a 470ohm be used?

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      • #4
        OK I built the timing light and using it on the spokes, I don't have the amp meter yet, but I manage to get it down to one pulse, but its wide (broader) than what you were able to get it down to on your video. 19 magnets on a 22in rim. If I go any lower on the pot it feels like its going to shut down. Is it just a problem of the pot being too sensitive (1K).

        Very cool indeed.

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        • #5
          Nice call on the timing! It seems I'm getting more into the charging battery and less out of the primary (more efficient). I already have a bunch of matching resistors to replace into the circuit, I need to build one of those testing devices for the transistors next, but not sure how to build it yet.

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          • #6
            Have you hooked up an amp meter yet to see your primary draw amps vs. charge input amps? Curious what your numbers look like...

            Originally posted by kevin72 View Post
            Nice call on the timing! It seems I'm getting more into the charging battery and less out of the primary (more efficient). I already have a bunch of matching resistors to replace into the circuit, I need to build one of those testing devices for the transistors next, but not sure how to build it yet.

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            • #7
              I ordered the amp meter, I'm just as curious to see my primary draw and charge input amps. However, radio shack's retail inventory is pretty weak these days. Currently, I'm dependent upon the voltage meters. I will post as soon as I get it.

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              • #8
                radiant style charging doesn't really show up on amp meters so numbers will be inaccurate

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                • #9
                  Until I get my analog ammeter, I tested the amp draw and input with a digital meter and here are the results: The primary battery draw is .61 and the input on the charging battery is .40. Any comments??

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                  • #10
                    sounds about right. Like Brodie mentioned, you will see the effects in the battery, not on the meter. Al

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                    • #11
                      Thanks everyone for your comments, it all helps!

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