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Thread: Bedini Solar

  1. #1

    Bedini Solar


    Hey I noticed something John B said. He said we needed to talk solar when we talk of off grid. So I am here to ask ANYBODY with knowledge of or questions about SOLAR power with John B's products in real world situations to post what they may it past or present.

    What we have that I have seen or know of atleast are...

    1)The SSG adapation
    2)The ORIGINAL Tesla Solar Power Amplifier
    3)The Tesla Solar Tracker III
    4)The Tracker 5(the newest John B is offering)

    So please share what you have and please...PLEASE feel free to post links to videos if ya got em.

    John H
    (NOT Dad HV...kudos to ya though)

  2. #2
    Myself...for the moment I have tried SOLAR in the experimental stages with the SG and even the IMHOTEP/BEDINI far as the tesla node being put in there. Overall...I had good results....not as good as when I hooked my 10A12 Tesla Solar Tracker III up though.The tracker was MUCH quicker at charging. The ONLY thing I saw different was the other took much....MUCH longer to charge with but last longer on the output. As of the current....well I just got a Tracker 5 and I plan on seeing what I can do with it.

    John H

  3. #3
    Greetings John H (and, DadHav):

    I'm glad that you started this thread as I was going to post some thoughts in the SG Radiant Oscillator, but this thread may be more applicable.

    John Bedini has given us several devices to build, study, and use: The SG, SG Radiant Oscillator, Capacitor Dump, SG3524 based charger, etc.

    After building and testing a 12 volt comparator cap dump, I got to thinking: "Why not integrate these devices into a complete system?" (Duhhhh)

    I have six, 45 watt solar panels connected to an SG Radiant Oscillator charging 5k AH of junk batteries. (I'll be glad when the leaves are off!)

    Yesterday, the voltage on the group was 12.5 and the transistors were warm. (The box is waterproof and outside. My first hack got water logged.)

    There isn't room in that box to fit more 'stuff', so I need to find an enclosure that will hold all the 'stuff'. Solar input terminal block, SGRO group, CompCapDump, and battery terminal block.

    Another thing to study is the SGRO itself. For a given transistor and length of wire, how does wire length effect voltage on the Base? (I've over driven the transistor base at times when the solar panels were in full sun.)

    So, the key thought here is: Integration. How can we use these different parts and systems together?

    Another thought: Diode protect the solar panels, and parallel a SG or SS SSG with the battery charging system. The capacitor 'buffer' shouldn't care what feeds it.

    This should be fun!!


  4. #4
    Senior Member Tom C's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Pacific Northwest
    Solar to a monopole really is the way to go...... for long term function, no battery swapping needed, way less solar needed for the same size battery bank, plates stay polished, its the way to go!! if you size everything right you can be off grid tomorrow!

    Tom C

    experimental Kits, chargers and solar trackers

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Tom C View Post
    Solar to a monopole really is the way to go...... for long term function, no battery swapping needed, way less solar needed for the same size battery bank, plates stay polished, its the way to go!! if you size everything right you can be off grid tomorrow!

    Tom C
    When I think off the grid I mean an inverter connected 24/7 (that's how I've been living my entire life. Well, childhood was at 12V - no inverter ^^)
    1. Is it safe to combine an inverter on the battery and radiant spikey charging? Does a low voltage capdump(~18V) make it safer?
    2. *I think all inverters have stabilyzing-caps inside, does this protect them from being burned by radiant?
    3. Is this(2) a factor that limits radiant energy harvest in the batteries? (Beside the negative effects of taking current while charging)


  6. #6
    I have been thinking a lot lately about setting up a solar charge system too, glad too hear you guys talking about it. I have only used solar and Bedini tech in combination on a very small scale. I do have a small SS coil that runs nice from a few small panels like 10x6 inches panels, not full size panels.

    I can charge up a few little 5ah batteries if they are not too drained. The advantage of using the coil setup is that it raises the voltage way higher than the panels can on their own. It is not a pulser just straight radiant.

    Eventually I want to setup a little shed or something with solar and a few of my machines but I am far from being able to do that just yet.

  7. #7
    Senior Member Faraday88's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Bangaluru, Karnataka, India
    Hi Dominus,

    I feel Cap dump mode is more risk prone as compared to the SG mode, the Cap Dump transient by can interfere by way of conducted emission (CE) affecting the Electronics in the Invertor circuit.

    Last edited by Faraday88; 11-18-2013 at 05:34 AM.

  8. #8
    Yes.....You can use the wind to rotate your monopole and save the energy that you would otherwise lose in the trigger circuit. Not my idea....Ref, EFTV DVD's

  9. #9
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Johannesburg, South Africa

    First off, a huge thank you to everyone on this forum for sharing their ideas,especially John Bedini! I have been following Johns work for 2 years now but prefer to do testing then post results until I am satisfied.
    I have been trying to get off the grid with as little cost as possible due to the fact that our power goes off frequently due to copper cable theft.
    The most important application required during power outages as far as I am concerned is light, without light you are left in the dark so to speak.
    I have tested many, many lighting applications (LED, Halogen, Incandescent) ect.. with failure due to the quality of the light being an eyesore or power draw being an issue on some applications. In my opinion, LED lighting is terrible for indoor use as it is directional. Others may disagree but we are all entitled to our opinion.

    I then decided to use CFL's and bought and tested the quality and power draw of various cfl bulbs light until I was satisfied.
    The CFL bulb that I found to have the best light output versus power draw is a Everlight Spiral 8 Watt warm white 2700K cfl.
    I DO NOT make a cent from endorsing these lights.
    So, with the use of a 150 Watt inverter (I removed the cooling fan as the transistor does not get hot enough to worry about heat), a 30 Watt solar panel and a 40 Amp car battery (Lead Acid), I now use the CFL for 6-8 hours at night....every night!
    I do not use a charge controller, only a diode, I have been running the CFL for almost 1 year now and at most we had a week of really cloudy wheather but NEVER has the setup left me in the dark.
    The quality is at full brightness and current draw is 600-700 milliamps. (I will post a video month end).
    Also, I use an ipad to watch movies during power outages and listen to a radio, I am also able to charge up my Samsung Galaxy cel phone.
    Cost wise, the battery was bought at a scapyard for R100 (South African Rands) or 10 Dollars, 30 Watt solar panel R400 or 40 Dollars, Inverter R200 or 20 dollars and CFL bulb R50 or 5 Dollars.
    So, the entire setup cost me R800 or 80 dollars.....
    Now, I would like to use a converted LEAD CRYSTAL battery using John Bendini's formulae as soon as it is available.
    I would like to buy a bunch of lead acid batteries, cut them up, remove the lead and melt the plates into solid 10mm thick plates creating a huge Lead Crystal Battery that should last for years to come.

    Apologies for the long explanation about the CFL's but at least it's out there.
    Perhaps John Bendini could use these CFL's for REAL off the grid backup lighting.

    Thanks and regards
    P.S, the above setup is for low wattage devices no fridges or freezers or 55 inch TV's....

  10. #10
    Hi Marduk,
    Thanks for sharing, I love hearing what others use in the real world.

    I know what you mean about the LED light being hard on the eyes. Usually too blue or flickering. I have been testing out a new panel however that I really like. The color is nice and they use very low power. I also run this from a small DC/AC converter rated at 100w clipped to a battery.

    I should have mentioned that these are not cheap though. a 1x1 is around $80 USD and a 1x2 about 100.

    I have mine wired to an ac plug where I can plug it in to the wall if I want too or run from an inverter if I need too. They are really designed as permanent fixtures but I set mine up with external wire instead.
    Last edited by BobZilla; 11-20-2013 at 07:34 AM.


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