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Thread: Phototherapy--Grow Lights

  1. #21
    aln nice lighting method! do you put resistors in the leds array???

    I remember one of the John Bedini videos on youtube, he is using resistors in the led array, the video is the one that he is testing a small 12 volts battery converted to alum and it light the leds array for weeks...or more…

    Here is the link -> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JT2CeNuIG6I

    But he is not using an oscillator just testing the battery, I don’t know if the resistors in the array led is the way to go for spikes as well as with DC.

    I am tempted to make an oscillator to run the light in my house.. specially after I read the patent of tesla that Aaron posted the other, day, “On light and other high frequency phenomena”… just 1 wire! Is amazing I tested it the way John B shows in a video, 1 wire from the radiant coil into 2 diodes and it works! Is amazing! great to show it to the skeptics… lighting things from 1 wire

    Alvaro

  2. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by AlvaroHN View Post
    aln nice lighting method! do you put resistors in the leds array???

    Alvaro
    Nope, maybe I should. What will they benefit?

    here is a good page on reading capacitors. Helpful when salvaging them, to know what you have.
    Cap value codes

    Aln

  3. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by aln View Post
    Nope, maybe I should. What will they benefit?

    here is a good page on reading capacitors. Helpful when salvaging them, to know what you have.
    Cap value codes

    Aln
    I think the resistors force the leds to share the energy evenly.

    Alvaro

  4. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by AlvaroHN View Post
    I think the resistors force the leds to share the energy evenly.

    Alvaro
    That must be when they are in parallel.

    So I mentioned earlier not to use CPD mod or gen mode: time to throw a wrench:

    I did not try either one on my panels. When I was building, Bob suggested I start with the basic solid state circuit.
    In my own thinking I thought, "I have heat issues with the vanilla so for sure I would with the advanced modes."
    I am not sure that is correct because as I was playing with a new bigger solid state over the last week I was able to eliminate heat
    and increase charging with the CPD mod while I was charging a battery. Batteries and LED's as loads will definitely act different so...
    If others with more experience have used their cpd modded ss ssgs to drive LEDs then please tell if it is a good idea or not.
    Also, do I need a pot paralleled with the cap on the cpd mod or can I use a resistor (wire wound I would suppose) (this is where you Bob or Patrick could chime in )
    Aln
    Last edited by aln; 02-25-2015 at 10:09 AM. Reason: add question

  5. #25
    Quote Originally Posted by aln View Post
    That must be when they are in parallel.

    So I mentioned earlier not to use CPD mod or gen mode: time to throw a wrench:

    I did not try either one on my panels. When I was building, Bob suggested I start with the basic solid state circuit.
    In my own thinking I thought, "I have heat issues with the vanilla so for sure I would with the advanced modes."
    I am not sure that is correct because as I was playing with a new bigger solid state over the last week I was able to eliminate heat
    and increase charging with the CPD mod while I was charging a battery. Batteries and LED's as loads will definitely act different so...
    If others with more experience have used their cpd modded ss ssgs to drive LEDs then please tell if it is a good idea or not.
    Also, do I need a pot paralleled with the cap on the cpd mod or can I use a resistor (wire wound I would suppose) (this is where you Bob or Patrick could chime in )
    Aln
    Hi Aln,
    The biggest reason I see for using the CPD is for creating the big beefy spike, this could ultimately destroy the leds. That being said, you can always find the right size cap (smaller) and/or tame it with a resistor to make the spike just big enough to light the leds with a frequency your plants will appreciate. a resistor paralleling the cap is one way to tame... here....

    1. resistor parallel to cap - uses/burns off some of the energy in the cap so there is less to hit the transistor base. this parallel resistor is your duty (time on).

    2. resistor in series with the cap - slows down and lowers the voltage going to the transistor base - this is your frequency regulator.

    A... basically a free 555 timer

    3. the diode - this makes all the energy built up in the cap drain off to the transistor base. Good for getting multiple spikes per cap drain. I would experiment with removing this so the cap can fill up - drain off - fill up- drain off - FOR FREE with the leds. it will not work that way with charging battery (the free part that is) it is free, it just passes through to the batteries.

    summation - if you find the right size cap, you can eliminate the diode and resistors. Start with small ac caps a lot depends on the size of your inductor as well...

    for leds I might go the "slayer exciter" route or "Dr Stiffler" those will not charge batteries but do a nice job lighting leds safely.

    my 2 cents Patrick A.

  6. #26
    Patrick
    When you say "resistor paralleling the cap is one way to tame..." do you mean a pot so it makes a tank-like circuit or a ceramic resistor, or do they act similiar and it doesn't matter? Aln

    I noticed with the CPD mod and air core puts out much better charging than w/o cpd. Compared to vanilla with and w/o core. At least my meters say so, Haven't done long runs yet. Working on a fun project to share when its completed. Aln


    Just thought about your comment some more. Is the cap you are referring to when you wrote "resistor parallel to cap" the one in parallel with the LED load, or the CPD (cap, diode) mode cap? Sorry, english is my first language Aln
    Last edited by aln; 02-26-2015 at 08:56 AM. Reason: add thoguht

  7. #27
    Quote Originally Posted by aln View Post
    Patrick
    When you say "resistor paralleling the cap is one way to tame..." do you mean a pot so it makes a tank-like circuit or a ceramic resistor, or do they act similiar and it doesn't matter? Aln

    I noticed with the CPD mod and air core puts out much better charging than w/o cpd. Compared to vanilla with and w/o core. At least my meters say so, Haven't done long runs yet. Working on a fun project to share when its completed. Aln


    Just thought about your comment some more. Is the cap you are referring to when you wrote "resistor parallel to cap" the one in parallel with the LED load, or the CPD (cap, diode) mode cap? Sorry, english is my first language Aln
    Yes, I'm talking about the CPD cap and yes resistor across the cap is POT so you can adjust the duty... look forward to your project.
    KR - Patrick

  8. #28
    Patrick, I lost where you posted your solid state set up in the garage that was hooked to the solar panel so I will ask here, how did you protect the panel from the spike? A diode, parallel caps, or was the big cap on the front enough? Aln

  9. #29

    a thought on LEDs and seedlings

    Quote Originally Posted by Branch Gordon View Post
    ...
    Thx for all this info. I'm going to start playing with this and coming up with a design this week.
    Branch, Something my wife mentioned yesterday, regarding seedlings, is that they need light right on them to get them going strong. Since LED's are very directional it is hard with my rapid Led panel to get the right mix of color on the seedlings with them spaced how I have them, just thought you might want to know that if you are in the process of designing something. Works good for the plants when they are growing and you can lift the light a little. Learn as we go. Would like to see what you come up with, I might do some redesign for a seedling light too, Just putting them closer and using more 660nm red would do the trick, Aln

  10. #30
    Quote Originally Posted by aln View Post
    Patrick, I lost where you posted your solid state set up in the garage that was hooked to the solar panel so I will ask here, how did you protect the panel from the spike? A diode, parallel caps, or was the big cap on the front enough? Aln
    Hi Aln,
    that was a single diode on the + side to a nice big 350V 3300uF cap
    the line from the panel to the cap is about 25 feet. I think there's enough resistance there to avoid the spike, at least I have not had any problems with it.

    There was some talk about the SSG eventually running batteries down, and I think Bob mentioned my setup here. I'm using my Neg2Neg mode on this so I wonder if that might have something to do with my batteries lasting so long. As Aaron mentioned using the Neg2Neg is more like a boost converter, there's still a spike however much current is delivered as well. That being said, my batteries this winter have not been climbing as high as last winter, I'll have to look up to see if there is any comparative solar data for seattle this winter vs last winter. Just in case, this week I took the coil off and have the panel hooked up directly to the batteries + diode of course... The sun is out quite a bit more this week so I will not be able to compare, just taking caution. It's a nice battery bank I'd hate to loose it.
    KR - Patrick

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