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Thread: Phototherapy--Grow Lights

  1. #11

  2. #12

  3. #13
    Here is the last video that has anything in it people would want to see. I use the old 3pmp kit to drive 2 panels. Aln


  4. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Tom C View Post
    what is the ratio you ended up with blue to red? did not look like it was equal from one of the pictures

    Tom C
    To answer you question: More red than Blue, the deeper the red the better to a point as mentioned in the first post of this thread. I have some white/tiney bit of uv/some blue and /most red. I will not say that I did what is best, but it worked for the purpose I had.
    Lets not ask what I did so much as ask what should be done which I bet Aaron could do much better at than me. Here is a helpful chart for anyone interested, it is from the Stealth Grow Light website.
    Aln
    stealth-grow-LED-full-spectum-graph.jpg

  5. #15
    Senior Member Branch Gordon's Avatar
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    Hey Aln-

    I hooked up an led grow light today to get the process of starting some seeds going, and then thought how I could make it more efficient using some bedini tech. And then here you go posting all this info. Thank you for that.

    I am interested in replicating what you have done exactly. How much is that array of Rapid LED's pulling? Are they from this site: http://www.rapidled.com/ ?

    I have a small solid state SG I can use to test this out...but then you mentioned a separate driver? How does that connect to the SG and then to the LED's?

    I also have a small 3 pole kit. Are you just running one master coil and then a gen coil driving the LED's?

  6. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by Branch Gordon View Post
    Hey Aln-

    I hooked up an led grow light today to get the process of starting some seeds going, and then thought how I could make it more efficient using some bedini tech. And then here you go posting all this info. Thank you for that.

    I am interested in replicating what you have done exactly. How much is that array of Rapid LED's pulling? Are they from this site: http://www.rapidled.com/ ?

    I have a small solid state SG I can use to test this out...but then you mentioned a separate driver? How does that connect to the SG and then to the LED's?

    I also have a small 3 pole kit. Are you just running one master coil and then a gen coil driving the LED's?
    Yes from that site, they don't burn out like the cheapos. If you want to what I am doing I would actually go with Patrick's circuit. Here is his video, the circuit at 1 and 2 seconds is what I am talking about. AC from the mains with one leg to a cap and then to a fwbr and the other leg to the other ac part of the fwbr. Don't use a 10 uf cap, that will put out 300 mA at 120 volts. For the rapid LED's you want a 2 uf (or less) AC cap. Series them up to come close on your voltage and put a timer on, Whala! I have 30 on my white lid, 20 on my teal; no heat sinks needed! I post a picture or 2 of what I just described.

    As for the question about gen coil, no it was 2 circuits branched out instead of tied together at the output diode because the 2 panels were not equal loads. Happy building. Aln
    Last edited by aln; 02-23-2015 at 07:39 PM.

  7. #17

    reason for using that circuit

    I can use a battery and bedini or the circuit I described above. I primarily use the above circuit because it is near indestructible unlike the ssg, which prefers to be dumped into a battery. If you go ssg, a cap (1-20 uf) across the output will smooth out operation and eliminate flickers. I'll check draw, maybe 30mA at wall outlet according to math if I remember, I can check it with battery and ssg and get back to you. The LED's are the output of the ssg circuit, no charging. You could throw a battery in series with the LED's and charge at the same time, I played with it a bit but came to the point where I wanted the wife to help out and not make things so complicated with wires and batteries all over. Aln
    Last edited by aln; 02-23-2015 at 06:50 PM. Reason: add info

  8. #18
    Here is the draw on the white lid panel
    white panel draw.jpg
    a lot less than if hooked up on parallel, then you would need heat sinks too.

    Here is a mini driver with the ac cap fwbr method
    mini driver.jpg
    mini driver up close.jpg
    That Cap is a little small, but will light the panels dimly.

    Here is where I was going but didn't size the panel yet to the driver. It is the IMHOTEP Bedini fan as an LED driver, maybe you want to develop that.
    imhotep fan.jpg
    For both pictures with meters Amp draw is on left voltage on the right meter. Set at 10 amps.

    Aln

  9. #19
    Senior Member Branch Gordon's Avatar
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    Haha yeah I've noticed too that wives + wires going everywhere don't play well together.

    I'm thinking though since I'm going to be the only one handling my setup, the SG setup will work best for me, with a cap across the output like you recommended. You mentioned in an earlier post how it was a challenge finding the right coil configuration. Can you clarify what you mean by that? Were you trying to achieve a specific voltage on the output?

    So say I measure on my machine a 150V spike...then I would wire up a max of 150V of LED's in series correct? Or do I need some headroom? And then it's just a matter of tuning the resistance to find the brightest resonant point?

    Thx for all this info. I'm going to start playing with this and coming up with a design this week.

    Quote Originally Posted by aln View Post
    I can use a battery and bedini or the circuit I described above. I primarily use the above circuit because it is near indestructible unlike the ssg, which prefers to be dumped into a battery. If you go ssg, a cap (1-20 uf) across the output will smooth out operation and eliminate flickers. I'll check draw, maybe 30mA at wall outlet according to math if I remember, I can check it with battery and ssg and get back to you. The LED's are the output of the ssg circuit, no charging. You could throw a battery in series with the LED's and charge at the same time, I played with it a bit but came to the point where I wanted the wife to help out and not make things so complicated with wires and batteries all over. Aln

  10. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by Branch Gordon View Post
    I'm thinking though since I'm going to be the only one handling my setup, the SG setup will work best for me, with a cap across the output like you recommended. You mentioned in an earlier post how it was a challenge finding the right coil configuration. Can you clarify what you mean by that? Were you trying to achieve a specific voltage on the output?
    I had a goal in mind- multiple ways of lighting the same panel- so I wanted a specific voltage on output yes. I do not have a scope so I just fill a small cap to see how much the circuit will put out. Voltage alone will not do the work you want, because you want more than just dim lights. You could have 300 volt spikes that won't light 300 volts worth of LEDs. Too much charge for your load and you get heat and a fried tranny or burnt out LEDs.

    Quote Originally Posted by Branch Gordon View Post
    So say I measure on my machine a 150V spike...then I would wire up a max of 150V of LED's in series correct? Or do I need some headroom? And then it's just a matter of tuning the resistance to find the brightest resonant point?
    Since you already have a circuit, build the panel to the circuit. So if you can fill a cap to 150v your neon will light up before your LED's. Kepp that in mind. If you use the nice ones from rapidled, then you can use less LED's in a row as they can take more juice so size the load to 90v instead of 115 for the cheapos, just a guess. If you use cheapos they are less forgiving and cause drive circuit to heat up if the spike can't get out fast enough. If you add a cap in parallel, use a small one and use less leds as the cap wll absorb a bit of the spike. It is fun to play with you'll get the hang of it. The cap will save your circuit while playing around too. When you think you've found the right combination, let it run for a while and check for heat. That was my biggest hurdle and where I nagged Bob the most for help.

    You will find you won't need the cap if you mess around enough. Just takes fiddling with it. You will need to have a pot on the SS SSG circuit as that is your output adjustment. Your getting close if neon lights up and then you can shut it off and keep the circuit going just by turning the pot. no core, no cpd, no gen mode Aln
    Last edited by aln; 02-24-2015 at 11:27 AM. Reason: add info

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