Complete Bedini SG Book!

Hi Aaron,

On pages 50 and 53 it says a 20" bicycle wheel and the exact dimension is 22". What I've found is if you go buy a 20" bike rim it will actually measure 16 1/2". So if you want a rim that actually measures 22 1/2" you have to buy what they call a 26" tire. It seems they count the width of the rubber tire in addition to the rim when determining the tire size. So I'm not sure I understand why you call it a 20" bike wheel? Interestingly, the specs Tom C. gave for an 8 filar were for a 16" diameter rim, which would be what they sell as 20".

thanks

Robert

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Originally Posted by Robert Darrah

Hi Aaron,

On pages 50 and 53 it says a 20" bicycle wheel and the exact dimension is 22". What I've found is if you go buy a 20" bike rim it will actually measure 16 1/2". So if you want a rim that actually measures 22 1/2" you have to buy what they call a 26" tire. It seems they count the width of the rubber tire in addition to the rim when determining the tire size. So I'm not sure I understand why you call it a 20" bike wheel? Interestingly, the specs Tom C. gave for an 8 filar were for a 16" diameter rim, which would be what they sell as 20".

thanks

Robert

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Thanks Robert, just like 2x4" piece of wood - is not a 2x4" in reality.

We'll look at the tire size specs clarification, but if we indicate a wheel that is 20", that means we are saying it is actually 20" and not another size that winds up being 20" when other things are considered.

We're upgrading the book with something VERY SPECIAL right now - it is already in there, we're going to point it out so there is no missing it.

Anyway, I'll pass on the rim size spec issue, thank you!

Hi Aaron,

Thanks for looking into this. The point I want to make is if people need a 20" diameter rim and they order what is called a 20" diameter rim they will end up with one that is only 16". So what they really need is what is sold as a 24" rim, which is actually 20" in diameter. Guess how I figured this out. :rolleyes:

Tom said to use a 16" rim so I ordered what they call a 16" rim and when I got it the actual size was only 12". I got it on ebay, and some of the sellers say on their pages that the listed spec is not the actual rim size. I just wanted people to learn from my mistake and not waste their $.

thanks,

Robert

Hi all,

I have purchased this book, and if I hade this book with my first studied, it never would have taken years ! Great and simple for a beginner, step by step, change the world...

very good work,

MH

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Originally Posted by Robert Darrah

Hi Aaron,

Thanks for looking into this. The point I want to make is if people need a 20" diameter rim and they order what is called a 20" diameter rim they will end up with one that is only 16". So what they really need is what is sold as a 24" rim, which is actually 20" in diameter. Guess how I figured this out. :rolleyes:

Tom said to use a 16" rim so I ordered what they call a 16" rim and when I got it the actual size was only 12". I got it on ebay, and some of the sellers say on their pages that the listed spec is not the actual rim size. I just wanted people to learn from my mistake and not waste their $.

thanks,

Robert

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Thanks Robert - this WILL be clarified in the updated book that should be on the same download page by the end of the week. We'll send out notice.

It also has something EXTREMELY SPECIAL pointed out in it.

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Originally Posted by Aaron Murakami

Hello Dieter,

The green arrow indicates the direction of the "electron" current. The amperage current flows from the negative TOWARDS the positive so the drawings are correct.

There are 2 bi-directional flows of positive and negative potential over the surface of the wire that is different from the electron current - so there are 3 flows happening at the same time. The direction of the arrow of the diode was originally made when it was believed that electron current moved from positive towards negative - they never changed the direction of the arrow.

The positive voltage potential (Heaviside flow) over the surface of a wire moves from the positive TOWARDS the negative.

Personally, I never pay attention to current flow - I only look at the direction of the positive "Heaviside flow" from positive to negative.

The drawings show the electron current flow direction from negative to positive so that it is consistent with conventional and classical electron current theory, which conventional EE's would be in agreement with.

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I only look at the direction of the positive "Heaviside flow" from positive to negative.

: This is the Radiant convention.

The drawings show the electron current flow direction from negative to positive so that it is consistent with conventional and classical electron current theory, which conventional EE's would be in agreement with.:
This is the Electron 'flow' Theory or conventional flow of conduction current.
Aaron is so correct in his description..!
Rgds,
Faraday88.

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Originally Posted by Robert Darrah

Hi Aaron,

Thanks for looking into this. The point I want to make is if people need a 20" diameter rim and they order what is called a 20" diameter rim they will end up with one that is only 16". So what they really need is what is sold as a 24" rim, which is actually 20" in diameter. Guess how I figured this out. :rolleyes:

Tom said to use a 16" rim so I ordered what they call a 16" rim and when I got it the actual size was only 12". I got it on ebay, and some of the sellers say on their pages that the listed spec is not the actual rim size. I just wanted people to learn from my mistake and not waste their $.

thanks,

Robert

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Sorry Robert,

I put the measuring tape across the rim, it ws 16...... who would have thought it was different, sorry man!

Tom C

I just recently got the book as well. Read it from cover to cover several times. Now I know why I made so many mistakes that lead to wrong conclusions that lead me to a dead end street. I never really got good info to start with from day one. No one knew or was willing to commit to the truth.

This text now puts all the pieces of the puzzle in place so that we can understand the basic principals of this very complex devise. Trying to decifer a complex machine without a detailed explaination is impossible understand. We all have witnessed this! Thanks to all of you who have stuck their necks out against the MIB to provide the opportunity to those of us who want to change the world and who need the education basics first. This is really good stuff! I'll say it again.....what an amazing education I have received in just one year. Thank you all!

When I think back to all those who previously went against the grain were silenced and for what? Greed, graft, corruption, control! Maybe the big guys at the top want us to move forward now. Who knows? I'll still be working on this stuff 24/7.

Bud

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From the graph you can see that the voltage of a lead-acid battery will
approach 16 volts as the charging process finishes. Point "P" on the graph is
the indicator that there are NO MORE sulfate ions in the plates and that
100% of the chemistry has been reversed from the last discharge.

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This is quote from page 69 of this book. According this, ang also graph representing charging curve, it is not possible to overcharge battery using SSG machine? My 7Ah LA battery is currently at 14.7 and going up.

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Originally Posted by caldovicd

This is quote from page 69 of this book. According this, ang also graph representing charging curve, it is not possible to overcharge battery using SSG machine? My 7Ah LA battery is currently at 14.7 and going up.

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No that is not correct, above 16.2 you are just doing electrolysis and destroying the water in the cell it is a waste of energy above 16.2. I have cooked batteries with my SG.

Tom C