Bung-ee, you'd probably be more impressed if you had the same primary and charge batteries. I think Rick went around for a while telling people to use a lower voltage primary than the charge battery but that's just rubbish.
The SG is designed to run a 12V primary and a 12V charge battery.

Do yourself a favour and get 2 good quality flooded lead acid batteries.

Also, 100' of wire on the coil is not enough, 130' is what is specified. Your base resistors are too low, should be 470ohm on each transistor and somewhere between 0 and 50 ohms for the "global" resistor.

You need to get the basics right before you can even think about getting more out than in (COP>1.0)

John K.

Hi John (hey I recently saw a video with your testimonial on the R&C charger )
Thanks for this. I will follow your help.
I'l give the try to new batteries also...

To be honest, I was expecting a 1:1 ratio with 1 strand, and can not even make a 1:1 with 7 strands, so, I'm having a few doubts over the whole usefulness and effectiveness of this discovery ??? (I am not here to discover or spend time or play with this or anything else. I want to implement ; I need free electricity somehow).
You really I mean honestly can say these fixes would allow to come aaaallll the way from 50% to over 100 % ?
Basically, going from a 100 coil to a 130 coil ?

(The resistors 470 ohms did not allow the wheel to turn, at all, it took me a while to figure that out, so I had to lower them - I understand that is or could be linked to the 100 ft long coil and that alltogether this explains a 50% ratio...)


Anyway, I'm very grateful for the help offered here.

nobody ? nobody interested in electrical over-unity for the SG ??
I am not interested in research with no practical advantage...
...or am I really so far (with the steup above described) from having tuned the product to its potential...?...

Bung-ee, 7 strands just means you can charge larger batteries. And yes, you are so far from having a machine built according to the specs to get any decent performance out of it.

John K.

Hi Bung-ee,

to be honest, look for good solar panels in the size you need for your purpose. You will not find realy useful free energy systems here in this forum. I am experimenting
since 2 1/2 years with different Bedini circuits and rotors and magnets (about 20 systems) etc. I am far away from a COP 1. Thinking about the money I invested, I could
have a now a complete 1500 Watt Solar System. This is the most helpful information for you I think. This technology here is for experimenters and research.
The only useful component of all the stuff here is the "Cap dump" circuit. It keeps your batteries in best condition.

Hi hoobyronotik. I appreciate both your to-the-point thinking verse, and sharing your experience with me, that is so deeply appreciated.
Let me put 2 or three ideas below as I also want to share my own.
Dear John. I did today a modification according to your suggestion. I still have the 100 ft long 7 + 1 strands coil (can not change this easily nor without 150$ ), I changed on to the 470 ohms all the resistors and restarted with a 1 trigger/1 power circuit. The transistors do not even keep the wheel rolling for 30 seconds. (the wheel is 8mn+ in free ), with 2mm gap to the magnets and coil.
So, yes, my tuning was right. So I got back and tried 147 ohms. the wheel did 7 minutes then stopped by itself. My selection of 47 ohms is the only one (it could be refined I agree but I have no variable resistors to play with it, yet) that gets me the machine running fast, drawing apparently not too much, and this is getting my batteries, day after day, a little weaker and weaker. So, aside from the rolling wheel which does impress me, I am 0.5 COP. And even the wheel, probably a low torque, would not allow me to use it for a direct load. I was imagining to hook up to a Leon Raoul HATEM "magnetic coupling" 1955 Patent , but that's something else, let me not mix things here up.
So your sugessiotn does not make it execpt for the 130 ft. Does THAT allows to go up from 0.5 to over 1 ? I'm just asking.
But, you are, and like others on this forum , just my teacher about this technology.
So far, I have read some posts or topics on this forum where people use the word "frustrated". To me that word is clear , it matches my own experience.
For all the good I think of the people and actions of John, Rick , Peter, Tom and all you great guys, this technology appears to be far too sensitive to make it to live by its own.
I know, well rather, I am sure, that any system that will make it will be a combination of simplicity, non dangerousness and in the last position, efficiency.
To my own short view, this technology is similar to a

LION TRYING TO MOVE AN ANT ON THE TIPS OF ITS TEETH

I trust that this forum is more than this SG , because I WILL post the rest of what I have got to do, ie implementing the Robert C. Beck protocol, and the Leon Raoul HATEM's magnetic coupling patent that I would like you guys to discover; (there are some excerpts here on youtube and http://nemesistv.info/video/KD87425W....AVBZDqhF.dpbs ) the guys is 90 now and lives 2-3 hours from my home, he's not able to power his own house with it, but the stuff is simple like hell and helluva seems doable (like the SG appeared to me though ).

hobbyrobotik, I appreciate (so much) your tone because what I think is that aside from people around Mr Inventor Himself (guess who that is ), and a few geniuses or talented persons in the hereabouts (Rick, Peter, Aaron, John , Tom C to name the ones I've come to e-training with), people will NOT be able to achieve COP>1 reasonably. That means the technology is not able to hit, which is marketing-wise important, while science-wise it is not, but the average dude like me, the layman like me, just NEEDS to know the truth, that truth. There is no frustration, there appears there to be just too much sensitivity involved in the technology.
I have crunched a hundred ants, still not able to move one safely.

Now I would like also to say that I have been practionning other INCREDIBLE and OUT-OF-THIS-WORLD stuff that I will plainly share with you, that works, is easy to learn, is easy to implement.
As says Bob Beck "I have nothing to sell whatsoever".
I have learned in a week-end level 1 in-person and level 2 "distance" hands on healing going by the name of the Domancic method.
That works, is simple to learn, is simple to teach, and so goes its destiny.
Let us continue to share honestly, this is really enligntening.
Thank you again !!

I'll continue to post for my new realizations soon.

@bung-ee

what makes the trigger coil fire? its the coil core and magnet configuration..... and the number of turns on the coil, and your magnets. its called induced current and is standard electrical theory. your resistance needs to be so low because your wire is big and your turns are low with that many strands. so how would you get the induced current up? you can wrap your trigger by itself around the core then wrap your other windings around it, you can make a seperate trigger coil, and there are some other things you can do. this tech is not market ready for any plug and play situation, that would require millions in funding and a research team. but you can build one for yourself, restore batteries and amplify your energy. no one handed me anything, I just learned myself. JB has not shown me anything he has not shown all of us, apart from the large comparator circuit and the RS version is spot on.


@hobby,

No one claimed that the SG will give more than 1 to 1 plus mechanical. its just a test bed for Tesla tech impulse technology.... a starting point. you are right the cap pulser is another link in the chain. I have always stated that you get some solar to power the front end, then use the SG to amplify the energy and use the cap dump to amplify it more. the battery front to back is to help you see how to tune the machine, learn about batteries, etc. it is all about potential.

Tom C

@Bung-ee & hobbyrobotik,

So how is it that some people have successfully obtained COP>1.0?

Perhaps YOU did not build it right. Perhaps YOU did not follow the instructions. Perhaps YOU didn't spend night after night studying and understanding how the machine works. Perhaps this technology isn't for YOU. (Hey, I'm crap at embroidery but I don't go on forums telling people it's a waste of time and just go and buy it instead)

Good luck with your experiments and I hope you find what you are looking for.

John K.

One thing about cap dumping guys. Nobody said it exactly but I think a lot of people miss something about raw radiant vs cap dumping so I am going to lay something out, take it or leave it.

Yes cap dumping can improve things under certain conditions but lets consider a trash battery for a moment. One that is so sulphated it looks like a dead short to a conventional charger ok, you with me?

If you hook a cap dumper to it you will fry your circuit because you are working with current on a cap. The cap will not pass the current and it will back up until the voltage overloads the circuit.

Take the same battery and hook it to a radiant output or "mode one" whatever you want to call it. That battery will take a very small charge because it is not current, it's voltage. Now if you drain that tiny charge out and repeat over and over you WILL start to clean the plates to a point that the battery becomes usable. More conditioning can bring it back to nearly new condition. Now this is assuming the battery does not have plate damage or a shorted cell, many throw always do but many others can be restored.

Heck even the ones with a dead cell can be useful. You can run small fans or LED's off of them or use voltage regulator and drive something that only needs 6v, whatever the point is even those batteries can be used if you use your imagination.

The point I am trying to make here is that there is a proper application for much of these variations and people seem to not really understand how and why to use different methods.

Let me say it again in a short form.

Cap dumping is current charging and you must have a target that will accept current.

Radiant charging does not care at all about the current and you can apply it to a nearly completely sulphated battery to break down the bulid up and restore the battery.

All of this talk about the technology being a farse and useless is complete cr*p. You just do not know how to build it or use it.

How many chargers can you go buy that you will connect to a 12V source and charge a 12V battery with, or even a 24V battery bank from a 12V primary? You see no value in that huh...

How about reclaiming tons of batteries that others have thrown away, that's useless too?

I speak from experience on this. I have salvaged MANY batteries that I got for free using my useless machines, because I know how to build them and how to operate them.

Forget about charging a battery with another of the same size and trying to have extra left over already, it's a dumb approach in the first place. Yes it can be done but you know who can do it, very advanced builders.

Most of the problems out there are attributed to the user not sizing the battery for the machine, and then not knowing how to maintain a battery. To do a trick like the 1 to 1 you MUST have everything sized perfectly and your batteries must be conditioned PROPERLY. Just doing 20 runs and then throwing your hands in the air is not enough.

Hey Bob,

Thanks for keeping the record straight and people honest. I agree with everything you said...obviously!

But in the spirit of full disclosure one should mention that although straight radiant charging is a great way to keep those batteries off the landfills, it should be said that it does alter the battery in a way that it can't be readily charged using an everyday charger...In my experience the batteries with the worst case of sulfation, always end up having an even harder time getting charged with a standard charger. Granted the conditioning can be reversed by some electrical wizardry but who want that kind of drama on a regular basis??

Your point is very valid, provided people keep charging their batteries with SG's and alike...My two cents,

Warm regards,

NoFear

once the battery is back up to or near capacity, 5 or 10 charge cycles on a regular charger will usually "revert" it back to a "regular" battery. if you then cap dump charge it the battery will stay polished.


Tom C

Hi Tom, John, robotnik and all the fellas here.
Tom, thanks, always to-the-point posts you write !
OK, I'll add 30 more feets to my coild and retry the 470 ohms to see how the cop changes.

Let me ask something to you. A clarification over the "maths".
My system currently is 0.5 may be 0.6 COP*. It is one 12 v and one 6V. that is not the recommandation, I know. But I'm sampling the system here before I think of buying for 450 $ worth new batteries, I think this you will understand.
If I get 3 new batteries, 12V, what would you think the cop would get at in, the same coil ans setup and 7 strands ? To my calculations, I should be able to recharge the 2 charging 12V slightly before the 1 12v primary gets depleted. So that would be a COP > 1 ?
6V -> can charge 12V at 0.5
12V can charge 2*12 at....1 COP ?
Am I computing correctly this technology ?
Thanks again for your time and thinking and all, I consider this a Gift.

* (I see a slow depletion taking place, although the wheel is running 150 rpms for counteless hours, so by the mechanical wheel it could well say be around the 1:1 COP ).

once you run off of 12v and charge 12v 470 ohms should work.... you can also play with 24v its having trouble turning over.... power supplies are good off the start to work with bad batteries, but dont do any cop calcs with them .... these motors tend to run faster/easier with higher voltage on the output too

hey Brodie...you're removing many additional pieces from the puzzle. in 2 lines of code
I'll try to follow the advices.