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  • Faraday88
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    Originally posted by bedinistarter View Post
    [ATTACH=CONFIG]7330[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]7331[/ATTACH]

    These are the close up for the coil winding.
    If at add a 100kohm potentiometer and change all the resistors to 100 ohm do you think there will be a difference and help tune the system?
    Hi,
    Your coil spool is wrapped with the insulation tape I need to see the exposed spool although the twist is visible at the coil ends, I need to see if the coil wrapping is uniform or not. I have attached a photo of 8-filar twisted coil, this gave me equal brightness in all the neons and same colour without matching any transistors.
    Rgds,
    Faraday88.
    Last edited by Faraday88; 03-30-2019, 11:36 PM. Reason: photo addition

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  • bedinistarter
    replied
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    These are the close up for the coil winding.
    If at add a 100kohm potentiometer and change all the resistors to 100 ohm do you think there will be a difference and help tune the system?

    Leave a comment:


  • Faraday88
    replied
    Originally posted by bedinistarter View Post
    Hi, thank you for your input. The wires we used were twisted, what do you suggest I do to ensure that the I have the exact values of bias? Is there a way I can modify this 8 coil into something simpler since this has to be very exact in terms of all the components to time the circuit properly..
    Hope to hear back from you soon.

    Thank You
    Ok,if you have twisted the strands the twist quality matters too! so kindly post a good photo view of the coil, one way is perhaps to re-twist them in the opposite direction.My experience says a good quality of twisting can make the coupling so good that you can even ignore to match the transistor Hfe. you are not there unless you see the neon glow orange -red all of them!
    Right now I see there is a preferential discharge occurring between them so you will see one of them glowing to pink-violet and the others faint orange.
    Also try always to have a global resistor of 12 Ohms/10W that feeds all other branch resistors to the bases.
    Rgds,
    Faraday88.
    Last edited by Faraday88; 03-29-2019, 08:27 AM.

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  • bedinistarter
    replied
    Originally posted by Faraday88 View Post
    there is imbalance in your circuit the coils have to be twisted this would atleast ensure
    that the coupling mutually between is uniform. The idea is to have exact values of the bias resistor/transistor Hfe/ out put diode Voltage e drop. not to mention the neons also matched in terms of the same electrode gaps.
    Rgds,
    Faraday88
    Hi, thank you for your input. The wires we used were twisted, what do you suggest I do to ensure that the I have the exact values of bias? Is there a way I can modify this 8 coil into something simpler since this has to be very exact in terms of all the components to time the circuit properly..
    Hope to hear back from you soon.

    Thank You

    Leave a comment:


  • Faraday88
    replied
    Originally posted by bedinistarter View Post
    Hi all,

    This is an updated circuit with the battery all connected and labelled, more close up of the circuit is in the previous post where I attached the the close up of the circuit with labels.

    Today while we were testing, the NEON bulb light up, but my question is, are all of them suppose to light up at once or sequentially because not all of them light up.

    [ATTACH=CONFIG]7328[/ATTACH]
    Yes that is right they all have light up together, there is imbalance in your circuit the coils have to be twisted this would atleast ensure
    that the coupling mutually between is uniform. The idea is to have exact values of the bias resistor/transistor Hfe/ out put diode Voltage e drop. not to mention the neons also matched in terms of the same electrode gaps.
    Rgds,
    Faraday88

    Leave a comment:


  • bedinistarter
    replied
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    I added some lines to connect the wires so that it can be seen clearly

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  • bedinistarter
    replied
    Hi all,

    This is an updated circuit with the battery all connected and labelled, more close up of the circuit is in the previous post where I attached the the close up of the circuit with labels.

    Today while we were testing, the NEON bulb light up, but my question is, are all of them suppose to light up at once or sequentially because not all of them light up.

    Click image for larger version

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  • bedinistarter
    replied
    Originally posted by Bradley Malone View Post
    I will attempt to explain better. When the magnet is passing by the coil at low rpm, the change in magnetism is slow and takes longer. When it is slow the voltage induced into the trigger is low. As you increase the speed of the magnet passing the core the magnetic change is the same but it happens faster so the voltage induced into the trigger will be higher.

    When you initially start the wheel by hand, the magnet induces a "low" voltage. When the resistance of the path to the base of the transistor is low enough for THAT voltage....the transistor will turn on. If this happens and the transistors turn on enough to run the machine, it will begin to speed up.

    What happens when the machine speeds up is the voltage in the trigger will raise higher and higher as the speed increases.

    With the sg machine you want the transistor to turn on "just enough" to kick the magnet away.

    If you have a low base resistance, the transistor will turn on at lower speeds but will stay on longer or pulse multiple times. If the resistance is high then you have to spin the wheel very fast to get the transistor to turn on.

    Thank you so much for explaining. I think I get it now. We have been spinning it with a low starting speed, maybe that might be the reason as why the transistor is not turned on. I will try and update back here! I appreciate your time and knowledge.

    Did you by any chance looked at the pictures of my circuit. Everything seems like its well connected. I just want to make sure that the circuit is connected right so that I can rule that out as a mistake and troubleshoot other aspects.
    Last edited by bedinistarter; 03-26-2019, 02:50 PM. Reason: have not finish my explanation

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  • Bradley Malone
    replied
    I will attempt to explain better. When the magnet is passing by the coil at low rpm, the change in magnetism is slow and takes longer. When it is slow the voltage induced into the trigger is low. As you increase the speed of the magnet passing the core the magnetic change is the same but it happens faster so the voltage induced into the trigger will be higher.

    When you initially start the wheel by hand, the magnet induces a "low" voltage. When the resistance of the path to the base of the transistor is low enough for THAT voltage....the transistor will turn on. If this happens and the transistors turn on enough to run the machine, it will begin to speed up.

    What happens when the machine speeds up is the voltage in the trigger will raise higher and higher as the speed increases.

    With the sg machine you want the transistor to turn on "just enough" to kick the magnet away.

    If you have a low base resistance, the transistor will turn on at lower speeds but will stay on longer or pulse multiple times. If the resistance is high then you have to spin the wheel very fast to get the transistor to turn on.

    Leave a comment:


  • bedinistarter
    replied
    It is connected to the negative of the input battery. We didn't connect those in the pictures because it looked really messy and hard to get a clear picture of the circuit. I think we have the set up right, but not sure why it is not working. Is there any suggestions you can give for us to troubleshoot? We tried changing the 470 to 120 resistors and it still did not work
    Last edited by bedinistarter; 03-26-2019, 12:17 PM.

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  • TruthInZero
    replied
    Where is connected other end of trigger winding? It should go to the same spot as your primary negative.

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  • bedinistarter
    replied
    Originally posted by Aaron Murakami View Post
    Can you show some good quality close up pics of the circuit?
    Hi, Here I have better pictures and labels, they're not connected to the batteries as it will be harder to take a picture. I think everything should be wired up correctly, but it still doesn't work. The wheel does not spin continuously. The battery I used is 12V 5Ah, does the Ah rating matter? To my understanding Ah just means that in an hour the battery can supply 5A of current.

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  • bedinistarter
    replied
    Okay, I will get a better and clearer picture tomorrow. At the meantime is there anything basic I can do to troubleshoot? For the power battery, can I use a 12 V 5Ah sealed lead acid battery? If everything is hooked correctly, could it be the circuit components that are faulty?

    Leave a comment:


  • Aaron Murakami
    replied
    Originally posted by bedinistarter View Post
    Hi,

    I hooked everything up the way as the circuit shown in the Bedini beginner guide, I spun the wheel but the wheel did not rotate continuously and eventually stopped, is there a way to check if the circuit is functioning properly and troubleshoot it? I tried reducing the resistance from 470 ohm to 120 ohm but it still did not work. We did the circuit with the 7 resistors, transistors and 14 diodes.
    Can you show some good quality close up pics of the circuit?

    Leave a comment:


  • bedinistarter
    replied
    Originally posted by Bradley Malone View Post
    So as the machine speeds up you will increase the resistance to bring the level back to "just enough" to trigger. This is why the efficiency goes up. The faster the wheel is going the less it draws....kind of.
    What does this mean, can you explain more on this?

    Leave a comment:

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