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  • Faraday88
    replied
    Originally posted by Jeffrey Joseph View Post
    I am in the process of building a window motor. I have some questions.
    Is there a picture of a jig for winding the coils so the shaft will go through?
    Can I use an Iron core for the rotor?
    Can I use a compound neo magnet configuration on the iron rotor?
    Thanks for your help Jeff Joseph
    1. Make provisions first for the rotor shaft insersion.
    2. Look,the window motor is essentially an Air-core motor. having a iron frame (if that is what you are asking) for a rotor that holds the magnets should not be an issue but its is preferred to be of a non-magnateic/non-conductive materials, although JB used aluminium cylinder for the Magnet -rotors.
    3.No. it has to be N-S-N-S all the way.
    Best Regards,
    Faraday88.

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  • Jeffrey Joseph
    replied
    Thanks Aaron

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  • Aaron Murakami
    replied
    Originally posted by Jeffrey Joseph View Post
    I was working with machine shops in my area and they all wasted the materials I supplied and wanted complete drawings of the final product. I have been working on all of the sg energizers with hand tools. Latest zero force motor. not working yet. Tesla switch, rpx and alum batteries. It is hard to replicate in the swamp. I have learned a lot and will not give up. I have hope when I get up in the morning and continue on the path. Happiness and Joy Jeff
    You got in!

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  • Jeffrey Joseph
    replied
    I was working with machine shops in my area and they all wasted the materials I supplied and wanted complete drawings of the final product. I have been working on all of the sg energizers with hand tools. Latest zero force motor. not working yet. Tesla switch, rpx and alum batteries. It is hard to replicate in the swamp. I have learned a lot and will not give up. I have hope when I get up in the morning and continue on the path. Happiness and Joy Jeff

    Leave a comment:


  • serendipitor
    replied
    There is additional info on the use of shorted coils in transformers here:
    http://www.free-energy-info.com/Utkin.htm

    See the section "Secret 2 Switchable Inductance" located about 60% down the page, which gives some experiments and data.
    Off to try some tests, as this very much depends on phasing of the coils.
    Last edited by serendipitor; 08-01-2015, 10:43 PM.

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  • Aaron Murakami
    replied
    John, your post I had to delete to insert the others in sequence

    Today, 02:54 PM #0
    John_Bedini

    Super Moderator Join DateJul 2012LocationCoeur'D Alene IdahoPosts280

    Ok, sometimes you must walk away from things for a long time and just let things fester in your head. If you look at the circuit diagram Mike posted you will see something that I may have overlooked. I donít know why I missed it, could have been thinking about something else. When I hooked a small battery in place of mikes ss circuit the motor ran as normal. That is why I came to the conclusion that mike hid a battery in the ss relay. So now back to the circuit, if you look you will see that when the switch is on the two coils make up an Autoformer, this type of device builds voltage without changing the impedance of the driving coil so the driving coil does not see the load of the capacitor the Autoformer works like a basic car spark coil. The only reason I say this is I had a job with some radio circuits
    where I had to make this type of transformer to supply the load of the antenna without effecting the transmitter. Amplifiers in the 70ís used these transformers (Mcintosh) you could short the amp out and nothing would happen. I have experimented with this type of transformer and it is possible to build a Window Motor to run like this but you cannot take any power from it, Unity. I know this is late timing but at least I have posted it.
    John B

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  • Aaron Murakami
    replied
    May Have found it

    07-20-2015, 12:39 PM
    John_Bedini
    Silver Member
    Join Date: Apr 2007
    Location: Hayden Lake, ID, USA
    Posts: 914

    May Have found it


    Yes, Unity is good, I just donít know how I could have missed this, itís really bugging me. I have done a test with the original motor and if you hook a bridge and a capacitor to the window coil and spin the motor up it charges the cap fast. Now if you pulse the motor with S1 it keeps running for a very long time. The key to it is the transformer as I stated. I could not find a diagram
    To post what I mean so I must draw it. It is important on how the second part of the coil is hooked up. The polarity must be correct and the timing of the switch. Be back later with drawing
    John B

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  • Aaron Murakami
    replied
    07-19-2015, 10:26 PM
    John_Bedini
    Silver Member
    Join Date: Apr 2007
    Location: Hayden Lake, ID, USA
    Posts: 914

    May Have found it

    Ok, sometimes you must walk away from things for a long time and just let things fester in your head. If you look at the circuit diagram Mike posted you will see something that I may have overlooked. I don’t know why I missed it, could have been thinking about something else. When I hooked a small battery in place of mikes ss circuit the motor ran as normal. That is why I came to the conclusion that mike hid a battery in the ss relay. So now back to the circuit, if you look you will see that when the switch is on the two coils make up an Autoformer, this type of device builds voltage without changing the impedance of the driving coil so the driving coil does not see the load of the capacitor the Autoformer works like a basic car spark coil. The only reason I say this is I had a job with some radio circuits
    where I had to make this type of transformer to supply the load of the antenna without effecting the transmitter. Amplifiers in the 70’s used these transformers (Mcintosh) you could short the amp out and nothing would happen. I have experimented with this type of transformer and it is possible to build a Window Motor to run like this but you cannot take any power from it, Unity. I know this is late timing but at least I have posted it.
    John B

    Leave a comment:


  • Aaron Murakami
    replied
    Parts list and replication details

    Parts list and replication details


    Magnets: (looks like) double stacked rectangle radio shack mags every 60 degrees so total of 12


    Spool body magnets attached to looks about 1.5Ē diameter


    Power wire: 28 awg 700 feet
    Trigger wire: 30 awg 400 feet
    3<SUP>rd</SUP> wire: 30 awg 400 feet


    Winding looks about 5-6Ē wide and about 4Ē tall


    Capacitor: 47000 uf


    2 X NPN Transistors: MPS 8099
    1 X PNP Transistor: MPS 8599

    1 X 10 ohm resistor
    2 X 2.2k ohm resistor
    1 X 3.3k ohm resistor
    1 X 1N914 diode

    1 X Bridge rectifier

    1 X Hall Effect Transistor: Bipolar 3030 Hall IC

    <?xml:namespace prefix = v ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" /><v:stroke joinstyle="miter"></v:stroke><v:formulas><v:f eqn="if lineDrawn pixelLineWidth 0"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @0 1 0"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum 0 0 @1"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @2 1 2"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelWidth"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelHeight"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @0 0 1"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @6 1 2"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelWidth"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @8 21600 0"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelHeight"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @10 21600 0"></v:f></v:formulas><Vath o:connecttype="rect" gradientshapeok="t" o:extrusionok="f"></Vath><v:imagedata src="file:///C:/DOCUME~1/aaron/LOCALS~1/Temp/msoclip1/01/clip_image001.png" o:title=""></v:imagedata><?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com</o:lock><v:shape id=_x0000_i1025 style=" />

    Relay details:?????????????????????????????????????????? ??







    Comments from Mike:

    No in the video the motor was powered by capicitance only. no battery. Trifiler wound
    I must warn you though if you are thinking this is some sort of overunity it is not.
    If you add a load the motor will slowly come to a stop.

    play with sw1 timing

    **I must tell you I use the third winding on my stator coil as a generator winding to charge the cap up from 0v, then when the transistors begin to pulse the back emf through sw1 brings the voltage on the cap even higher till it levels and the motor is then runing at unity (this is just what I think is hapening and I could be missing somthing here)

    you must get your window motor running,
    then we can talk about charge timing and unity.
    study the scope shots I posted and you will get an idea of timing. Two EMF spikes per cycle
    When you go to run your motor have a AM radio close to the stator coil you should here two cracks brodcasted for every magnet pair passing. a quick way to tell if you are hooked up correctly.
    I use (28 gauge .012 in. main), (30 gauge .010 in. trigger, generator)
    I get a little over 40 ohms each
    the main winding is longer than the generator and trigger windings. I did not count #turns sorry.
    I must say that my stator coil is wider
    i will post a picture of it soon

    Direct measurements from mikes spun by hand:-

    4.5v ac main winding
    2.2v ac trigger winding
    2.8 v ac third winding


    now what I did after getting my motor to run without any mods-

    I would use it to charge a second battery hopeing I could switch the batteries over and over and it would run for ever, this was not the case, then I found out that if I charged a large cap up with it the motor drew less current from the battery. this was with sw1 between cap+ and bat+

    Troubleshooting Tips:-
    monitor your input current with diffrent caps to see what works best.

    @dom I get 2.8v ac spinning by hand

    try it with just the main coil to the bridge to the cap and see how fast you can charge the cap to 6v by hand and let me know your results


    -Mike mentioned just use main coil and see if you get spikes coming only from that, but I'm not sure if that would work since i have the trigger coil disconnected, I'll try anyway.


    Lets build and then compare results
    I am going to build another to the same specs and see if it performes the same.

    When you get your motor to run on a battery, charge a cap off the bridge dc then time the ss relay to dump this charge back on the battery. when you get the correct timing the motor will draw little to no current from the battery. this will be the same timing for the moddified circuit. use three magnets in triangle formation.

    Hope this helps

    cheers mike

    Leave a comment:


  • Aaron Murakami
    replied
    Comments by Peter Lindemann

    Comments by Peter Lindemann
    COMMENT BY PETER LINDEMANN of www.free-energy.ws<o></o>
    OK Everybody,<o></o>
    <o></o>
    John has explained the method Mike used to get his unit working, in Mike?s own words. Also, he has run the experiment and determined that the Ceramic Magnets work better. So, that?s it!<o></o>
    <o></o>
    It?s time to get serious about this project and standardize a design. These group verifications cannot be done properly with a ?hobby budget? mentality, where everybody just uses what they can afford or acquire easily. Get a list of components together that everybody can get. Decide on a wire size and the number of turns for each coil, so everybody can build the same thing. On this note, the biggest challenge may be finding a suitable replacement for the SS Relay. The part number that Mike calls for is no longer available.<o></o>
    <o></o>
    So, if Mike wants to come back and give all the specs on his model, that would be a good place to start. If this doesn?t happen right away, I suggest that John?s current model be the basis for this ?standardized design?. He has all the specs for it, the number of turns on the coils, the transistors, the magnets, the rotor hub size, etc. <o></o>
    <o></o>
    So from this point on, if you can actually get all of the parts for the standardized design and commit to the replication, then you can participate. If you can?t get the parts, don?t want to build a model right now, or don?t want to do it the way the group is proceeding, then please just watch quietly in the background and let the builders work it out!<o></o>
    <o></o>
    In keeping with this advice, since I am not building one right now, this is my last post.<o></o>
    <o></o>
    Good luck!!!<o></o>
    <o></o>
    Peter<o></o>

    Leave a comment:


  • Aaron Murakami
    replied
    Analysis by John Bedini PART 3

    Analysis by John Bedini PART 3


    Now read the story this way,
    <o</o
    The hall effect transistor is to activate sw1 I use a solid state relay for sw1 The circuit will need a battery for power source.. Their are some modifications needed for acheiving unity, then you can get rid of the battery Yes feedback, and play with sw1 timing I must tell you I use the third winding on my stator coil as a generator winding to charge the cap up from 0v, then when the transistors begin to pulse the back emf through sw1 brings the voltage on the cap even higher till it levels and the motor is then runing at unity,but I always stop it after a few hours or so. look at the commutator to see the timing ,("""ss relay puts the main winding in series with the third winding at the correct time, take into account the rectifier diode in between them""".) I don't know if all is needed for the circuit.I just know that this is how I got it to run longer. how long I dont know so far maby a couple hours. I belive it is working at or near unity. I know that the third winding charges the cap.("" and I think somthing coming through the ss relay helps this charge"").what I did after getting my motor to run without any mods.<o</o
    I would use it to charge a second battery hopeing I could switch the batteries over and over and it would run for ever, this was not the case, then I found out that if I charged a large cap up with it the motor drew less current from the battery. this was with sw1 between cap+ and bat+,,monitor your input current with diffrent caps to see what works best.<o</o

    -------------------------------------------------------
    Now read the story this way, Do you all get it now.<o</o
    John
    The hall effect transistor is to activate sw1 I use a solid state relay for sw1 Yes feedback, and play with sw1 timing I must tell you I use the third winding on my stator coil as a generator winding to charge the cap up from 0v, then when the transistors begin to pulse the back emf through sw1 brings the voltage on the cap even higher till it levels..ss relay puts the main winding in series with the third winding at the correct time, take into account the rectifier diode in between them. I belive it is working at or near unity.I know that the third winding charges the cap.("" and I think somthing coming through the ss relay helps this charge"").what I did after getting my motor to run without any mods.
    The answer.
    ss relay puts the main winding in series with the third winding at the correct time, take into account the rectifier diode in between them. I belive it is working at or near unity.I know that the third winding charges the cap.("" and I think somthing coming through the ss relay helps this charge)<o</o
    Last edited by John_Bedini; 07-27-2015, 05:32 PM.

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  • Aaron Murakami
    replied
    Analysis by John Bedini PART 2

    Now read the story this way now in red, You will see how everything gets confused by all the posts in between. This is something I learned in the military, how to get the answers. I did change the Neo magnets out in my motor and it does make a big difference, "so no neos" in this one please. Get the facts straight and you will build this motor. Focus on what Mike said or "Fail" . Do not assume anything , Mike is thinking out of the box, Neo Magnets suck in this motor, trigger circuit now works fine in my set up, Next the SS solid state switch.
    John

    <O
    The hall effect transistor is to activate sw1 I use a solid state relay for sw1 wind as much turns as possible try to get above 6 ohm. The circuit will need a battery for power source.. Their are some modifications needed for acheiving unity, then you can get rid of the battery. Dont worry about that for now just get it to run with a battery<O</O
    Yes feedback, and play with sw1 timing I must tell you I use the third winding on my stator coil as a generator winding to charge the cap up from 0v, then when the transistors begin to pulse the back emf through sw1 brings the voltage on the cap even higher till it levels and the motor is then runing at unity
    <O</O
    <O</O
    I don't Know how long the motor can run for, but I always stop it after a few hours or so.<O</O
    I have come up with a diagram of the modification. and a close call, I had found the motor would not run after a couple wires were swiched around by accident. coil polarity is very important. yes same as Bedini/Cole.All components are the same except for the added parts a hall IC and a ss relay and also third winding. <O</O
    Main winding is connected at the collectors. follow Bedini/Cole cct great work.<O</O
    you must get your window motor running,then we can talk about charge timing and unity<O</O
    When you go to run your motor have a AM radio close to the stator coil you should here two cracks brodcasted for every magnet pair passing. a quick way to tell if you are hooked up correctly.<O</O
    I learned alot from these illustrations, look at the commutator to see the timing <O</O
    I think the third winding is allways charging the cap the ss relay puts the main winding in series with the third winding at the correct time, take into account the rectifier diode in between them. <O</O
    This is not overunity, just a motor that can charge a cap and run off it for a wile. <O</O
    I don't know if all is needed for the circuit.I just know that this is how I got it to run longer. how long I dont know so far maby a couple hours. I belive it is working at or near unity.<O</O
    Oh and the scope shots, the third winding shot scope is set to diffrent scope timing<O</O
    I know that the third winding charges the cap. and I think somthing coming through the ss relay helps this charge.<O</O
    I just want to say that I have never claimed this to be overunity I think it is near unity the third winding charges the cap quickly and the motor runs of this charge for a long time not forever.<O</O
    what I did after getting my motor to run without any mods.<O</O
    I would use it to charge a second battery hopeing I could switch the batteries over and over and it would run for ever, this was not the case, then I found out that if I charged a large cap up with it the motor drew less current from the battery. this was with sw1 between cap+ and bat+,,monitor your input current with diffrent caps to see what works best.<O</O
    -------------------------------------------------<O</O
    Now read it this way.<O</O
    John<O</O
    <O</O
    <O</O

    The hall effect transistor is to activate sw1 I use a solid state relay for sw1 wind as much turns as possible try to get above 6 ohm. The circuit will need a battery for power source.. Their are some modifications needed for acheiving unity, then you can get rid of the battery. Dont worry about that for now just get it to run with a battery<O</O
    Yes feedback, and play with sw1 timing I must tell you I use the third winding on my stator coil as a generator winding to charge the cap up from 0v, then when the transistors begin to pulse the back emf through sw1 brings the voltage on the cap even higher till it levels and the motor is then runing at unity<O</O
    I don't Know how long the motor can run for, but I always stop it after a few hours or so.I have come up with a diagram of the modification. and a close call, I had found the motor would not run after a couple wires were swiched around by accident. coil polarity is very important. yes same as Bedini/Cole.All components are the same except for the added parts a hall IC and a ss relay and also third winding. Main winding is connected at the collectors. follow Bedini/Cole cct great work.<O</O
    you must get your window motor running,then we can talk about charge timing and unityWhen you go to run your motor have a AM radio close to the stator coil you should here two cracks brodcasted for every magnet pair passing. a quick way to tell if you are hooked up correctly.<O</O
    I learned alot from these illustrations, I think look at the commutator to see the timing the third winding is allways charging the cap the ss relay puts the main winding in series with the third winding at the correct time, take into account the rectifier diode in between them. This is not overunity, just a motor that can charge a cap and run off it for a wile. <O</O
    I don't know if all is needed for the circuit.I just know that this is how I got it to run longer. how long I dont know so far maby a couple hours. I belive it is working at or near unity.Oh and the scope shots, the third winding shot scope is set to diffrent scope timing.<O</O
    I know that the third winding charges the cap. and I think somthing coming through the ss relay helps this charge.<O</O
    I just want to say that I have never claimed this to be overunity I think it is near unity the third winding charges the cap quickly and the motor runs of this charge for a long time not forever.<O</O
    what I did after getting my motor to run without any mods.<O</O
    I would use it to charge a second battery hopeing I could switch the batteries over and over and it would run for ever, this was not the case, then I found out that if I charged a large cap up with it the motor drew less current from the battery. this was with sw1 between cap+ and bat+,,monitor your input current with diffrent caps to see what works best.<O</O

    Leave a comment:


  • Aaron Murakami
    replied
    Analysis by John Bedini PART 1

    Analysis by John Bedini PART 1


    I'm posting some deductive reasoning by John Bedini that he posted
    online. These are the keys to making it work properly and his comments
    are an analysis on what Mike said about his modification of John's circuit.

    ----------------

    Everbody read Mike's story it will help.

    Everone just read mikes story
    John


    Hi Dom,

    wind your coil yet?, look for about 6-8 ohms on the main winding this gives a large back EMF wich charges the cap quick at first.
    I will try to attach the video of my window type motor now follow the first cct and yes trigger is smaller wire. The hall effect transistor is to activate sw1 I use a solid state relay for sw1 wind as much turns as possible try to get above 6 ohm. The circuit will need a battery for power source.. Their are some modifications needed for acheiving unity, then you can get rid of the battery. Dont worry about that for now just get it to run with a battery.Also I made a mistake the main winding on my motor is 46 ohms
    so 40-60 ohms sorry about that .No in the video the motor was powered by capicitance only. no battery. Trifiler wound I must warn you though if you are thinking this is some sort of overunity it is not. If you add a load the motor will slowly come to a stop.

    Yes feedback, and play with sw1 timing I must tell you I use the third winding on my stator coil as a generator winding to charge the cap up from 0v, then when the transistors begin to pulse the back emf through sw1 brings the voltage on the cap even higher till it levels and the motor is then runing at unity (this is just what I think is hapening and I could be missing somthing here)


    I don't Know how long the motor can run for, but I always stop it after a few hours or so. I am scared to leave it running unattended (a fire or explosion would not be good)the running voltage is higher when I give it a big spin by hand. so far every time I ran it the voltage has always leveled off some where bellow 12v or so my cap is good up to 25v
    glad to here that you have started construction allright after tracing all the wires I have come up with a diagram of the modification. and a close call, I had found the motor would not run after a couple wires were swiched around by accident. coil polarity is very important. yes same as Bedini/Cole.All components are the same except for the added parts a hall IC and a ss relay and also third winding.

    Main winding is connected at the collectors. follow Bedini/Cole cct great work.
    you must get your window motor running,then we can talk about charge timing and unity.study the scope shots I posted and you will get an idea of timing. Two EMF spikes per cycle
    I go back to work one more thing before I go, When you go to run your motor have a AM radio close to the stator coil you should here two cracks brodcasted for every magnet pair passing. a quick way to tell if you are hooked up correctly. This link is very good http://www.fight-4-truth.com/Schematics.html must check it out

    I learned alot from these illustrations, look at the commutator to see the timing , the bad news, I left my window motor running last night. Now it does not run at all. I will check all components after work.I feel very disapointed. OK back from work now I check the motor. I did a quick visual inspection and it looks OK and the cap holds a charge but when I turn the shaft it does not run, more checks.


    I think the third winding is allways charging the cap the ss relay puts the main winding in series with the third winding at the correct time, take into account the rectifier diode in between them.
    ps: looks like the hall ic is not working and also the PNP, the ss relay is fine, I have no more hall ic's and only a few PNP's.This suxs .

    anyway I figured I would take some pictures of the stator and post soon This is not overunity, just a motor that can charge a cap and run off it for a wile.
    Scope shots were taken dirrectly off the coil. I will post more detail when I have my motor running again.I will scavenge up a hall ic from something.

    I don't know if all is needed for the circuit.I just know that this is how I got it to run longer. how long I dont know so far maby a couple hours. I belive it is working at or near unity. i will swap the bad parts now and try to get it running again. As for the posistion of my flywheel magnets I will give that info later after I have finished my testing.
    Oh and the scope shots, the third winding shot scope is set to diffrent scope timing. yes the original circuit will charge the cap my modification charged the cap from 0v faster
    yes somthing is wrong with the cap. If I charge it with 12v it will not hold long and spark from discharge is week.Still looking for a hall ic any ideas where to find one 3030 also did anyone find this paticular cap I have only one and the place where I got it, BG Micro no longer has any.

    maby another big cap will take its place. can run the motor now but only with battery power. back to where I started.

    I will get a hall sw at the local IC Supply store in the morning. any body have a running motor yet I know Dom looked realy close to finished.


    OK Stefan, on second look your circuit is correct. the ss relay on your circuit looked wrong but I see it now

    I know that the third winding charges the cap. and I think somthing coming through the ss relay helps this charge.
    still trying to get my motor to work correctly, It has prooven to be harder than I thought.
    I will post new scope shots soon

    I just want to say that I have never claimed this to be overunity I think it is near unity the third winding charges the cap quickly and the motor runs of this charge for a long time not forever.
    It makes me happy to see another window motor running.now what I did after getting my motor to run without any mods.
    I would use it to charge a second battery hopeing I could switch the batteries over and over and it would run for ever, this was not the case, then I found out that if I charged a large cap up with it the motor drew less current from the battery. this was with sw1 between cap+ and bat+,,monitor your input current with diffrent caps to see what works best. I get 2.8v ac spinning by hand try it with just the main coil to the bridge to the cap and see how fast you can charge the cap to 6v by hand and let me know your results
    4.5v ac main winding
    2.2v ac trigger winding
    2.8 v ac third winding
    stefan please show me were to place scope leeds on the diagram I posted Stefan please slow down the questions here are the scope shots you wanted

    Main is top trace on both 1st shot is the main and trigger windings 2nd shot is the main and third windings I will do more tomorrow I am waiting for a hall ic so please be patient

    OK guys I got the hall ic and the motor is working again here are the scope shots taken across cap neg. and ss relay output before diode.

    scope set at 2v per div. at 10 ms per div. first shot is with hall sensor hooked up and the second is without it hooked up
    I have posted my full circuit diagram allready. but here it is again. i found this to work best for my setup.

    please follow it exactly making no changes so we can compare results taken across cap neg. and ss relay output before diode.
    scope neg to cap neg no it will not run long without hall sensing. I pulled the hall output to ss relay, I spun it by hand for the scope shot (without hall ss relay)
    Lets build and then compare results I am going to build another to the same specs and see if it performes the same.

    When you get your motor to run on a battery, charge a cap off the bridge dc then time the ss relay to dump this charge back on the battery. when you get the correct timing the motor will draw little to no current from the battery. this will be the same timing for the moddified circuit. use three magnets in triangle formation.
    Hope this helps

    cheers mike

    Leave a comment:


  • Aaron Murakami
    replied
    John, here it is from: http://www.energeticforum.com/john-b...tteries-2.html

    @all, this is what I posted way back on Energetic Forum in Feb 22, 2007:

    Bedini-Cole Window Motor Electric motor runs without draining batteries!!!

    Hi everyone,

    One of my passions is studying and building "free energy" technologies.
    There are many misconceptions about this field and it is attacked by
    people claiming anyone doing anything in this field are a bunch of
    perpetual motion nuts.

    The truth is that these technologies are very real and they also have
    absolutely nothing to do with perpetual motion! I'm not getting into
    the specifics in this message about the distinctions because this topic
    is too important to focus on the misconceptions. Instead, lets shine some
    light on an amazing recent release.

    John Bedini is a world famous electrical engineer and is considered a
    "Mozart" with electronics and especially in the field of audio components
    because he builds he highest quality most crisp sounding audio amplifiers
    known to man.

    Besides the audio field, he also happens to be one of leading super
    geniuses in the field of electromagnetic energizers and "radiant energy"
    in general.

    For over 11 years, he had many plans posted on his website for many
    different versions of his motors and the "School Girl" motor is probably
    the most popular and there are thousands around the world building
    this motor achieving very exciting results that are supposed to be
    impossible.

    Besides this motor, there is one version called a "Bedini-Cole Window Motor"

    This is what it looks like:



    The plans have been given out to the world on this website:
    http://www.icehouse.net/john1/motor.html

    The schematics for this motor are here:



    Watch a demo video: http://www.icehouse.net/john34/bedinicolemotor.mpg this is 12MB's long
    so be patient or right click on the link and SAVE TARGET AS

    You can visit John's homepage here: http://www.icehouse.net/john1

    Be careful not to miss any links because they are scattered and
    hidded all over his websites. There are many.

    One time at John's shop, he hooked up a little battery to this motor
    and it was so efficient it almost didn't register any amperage on the
    meter while it was running. Also, I grabbed the shaft with my hand
    and I couldn't even stop it!! It produces more torque for the least amount
    of power out of any motor that I think has ever been released.

    Anyway, Mike, an experimenter who did a small modification to the original
    plans wound up with a more efficient Window Motor that runs itself and
    keeps charging a capacitor charging up!

    Here is what his looks like:



    Here are the schematics / plans with the small modification:




    Watch this video:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5rl1dI9YCi8

    How does it power itself???

    That will be another discussion...but pass the link to this forum to your friends so we can
    get the word out. I'm not just someone excited about this...I have built many, many Bedini
    circuits and they all work as long as I build them according to his plans and not how I think
    they should be built. I'll post a thread later with a very simple motor that beginners can get
    their feet wet with..very simple stuff...a 10 year old girl built one so you can too!

    Leave a comment:


  • OrthoParameter
    replied
    Originally posted by Tom C View Post
    Ortho,

    not sure I am ready to learn another program, still working on learning 123D design. it spits out an STL file... I have 3 slicers, slice3r, cura and matter slice, matter slice is the one that is making it sawtoothed. just got my tricklazer carbon fiber arms in today, so the machine comes apart and gets new delta arms and an LED light ring. my purpose originally for buying this thing was to do a window motor frame and make some genny coil spools and make hall sensor brackets and timing discs I could offer everyone here on the forum. those are the hardest parts to get... and a printed timing disc would hold the tiny rectangle neo mags perfectly and make window motors easier to build for everyone.

    perhaps we can collaborate on the drawings as that is my weak spot right now. if you are up to it we can start a new thread on 3D printed SG parts..

    Tom C

    Oh man! you got the trick laser arms and light ring...too cool!

    I would be more than happy to work with you on that project. I already have code written to do just that very thing and more. All I have to do is plug in the numbers for the magSize, numMags, by angle or physical spacing, put a hub on it as shown in the picture or place bearing holders....whatever you need. Got this pretty much down to an art so..... start a thread, talk dimensions and I'm there.

    timing_disc.jpg

    Leave a comment:

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