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  • Branch's Crystal Battery

    Hey all! I successfully replicated John's crystal cell and earth light circuit tonight. Voltage is about 1.9v, .77v under load. Puts out around 40mA. See vid: http://youtu.be/CBb27o0jzmU

    Thanks John B and everyone involved! Building a bigger one next week...

  • #2
    Thx Mikey. Those plans are posted in this forum in the Crystal Battery thread under "John Bedini". Just do a search. Yes, there are two inductors.

    Originally posted by BroMikey
    Yes Branch great build

    Where are these plans for the circuit? Is there a tiny inductor? I have watched John's video for batteries but have often wished I had the circuit that he used.

    Thanks for posting your results

    Mikey

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    • #3
      I am having some difficulty with my new copper bowl. I am using my propane camp stove to heat it up. It does turn a dark grey color after about 3 minutes. However the resistance is still at .3 ohms. It's my understanding that the resistance should be in the megaohms range after the layer of oxide forms.

      I show in this video the change from the original copper color to dark. I then dipped it into a bucket filled with water and borax. I did this 5 times and still the resistance is at .3 ohms.

      Is there something I am missing?

      www.youtube.com/watch?v=pDjqGd0iUr8

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      • #4
        Ideas for low power applications

        Here's a video update on my new cell: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WcQMBdh0LLo

        I'm gonna buy the Crystal Battery DVD's here soon before I go any further with building these...just be sure I have all the correct info.

        Has anyone put together a list of ideas for lower voltage applications around the house that is good for these batteries? I saw Fausto made a flashlight, I've seen nightlights mentioned and reading lights. I also saw John built an FM transmitter.

        Any other ideas for useful practical applications? Just trying to get an idea of what is possible with these batteries...

        Cheers!

        Branch
        Last edited by Branch Gordon; 11-20-2013, 10:23 PM.

        Comment


        • #5
          Question regarding the earth light circuit....

          I have it hooked up to the crystal cell I built. It has a standing voltage of around 1.3V right now...but I haven't put any water in it for a couple weeks.

          The LED I am running is THIS. It needs 3.2V to run if I understand correctly. This LED runs great btw and puts out 11 lumen. It has 360 degree diffusion.

          I can't figure out how to measure the voltage after it has gone through this earth light circuit. I just get 1.3V. I tried connecting the leads to either side of the LED, and I just get the voltage under load. Shouldn't I be seeing at least a voltage of 3.2V somewhere on this circuit?

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          • #6
            So I'm taking my CBA off the SG for awhile to run a test on my crystal battery. It's pulling 100mA and I'm just gonna run it until it's at zero, whenever that happens. We shall see how long it lasts...

            photo 2.jpg photo 1(1).jpg photo 3.jpg

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            • #7
              I have watched the first crystal battery DVD and am surprised at how much current these cells are able to produce. I want to make an array of them to charge up some batteries.

              1st question: Since the new solar tracker accepts a dc power supply as an input, would a series of crystal cells work as long as they aren't exceeding the max amperage? If built right, it would be like a solar panel that is in peak sun 24/7.

              2nd question: Has anyone tried designing an alum crystal cell with a copper sheet? Then a thin layer of alum on top, followed by a thick magnesium plate with holes drilled in so u could add water? I thought I heard john b say in one of his YouTube videos that having the crystal layer as thin as possible was beneficial....but I may have misunderstood.

              Goal for me here is to built a large array of these that will charge 12v deep cycle batteries, and hook enough in parallel also to get 10 amps coming out.

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              • #8
                Also, was the mix and design of the cell in this video from Chuck ever revealed? I see it was recorded over a year ago...

                Comment


                • #9
                  Branch,

                  the impedance goes very hi when you string them in series for higher voltage, they wont drive much. even at 12 volts your amperage will drop to 150 milliamps or so, they really are made for the oscillator circuit..... you can use that to charge up a cap bank, and then drive bigger led's, then turn off the led's and recharge the cap bank.

                  Tom C


                  experimental Kits, chargers and solar trackers

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                  • #10
                    But I wouldn't necessarily have to have a 12v series to charge batteries if I used something like the cable oscillator I have seen mentioned, right?

                    So let's say I made 2 large ones that put out 2 amps. Hook those two together in series and then to the cable oscillator to boost the voltage. Would that work?

                    Originally posted by Tom C View Post
                    Branch,

                    the impedance goes very hi when you string them in series for higher voltage, they wont drive much. even at 12 volts your amperage will drop to 150 milliamps or so, they really are made for the oscillator circuit..... you can use that to charge up a cap bank, and then drive bigger led's, then turn off the led's and recharge the cap bank.

                    Tom C

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                    • #11
                      if you had one that put out 2 amps that would be amazing..... looking forward to your experiments.

                      Tom C


                      experimental Kits, chargers and solar trackers

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Haha I am just going off of what John said in his crystal battery DVD. He said when u build them bigger, you get into amps instead of milliamperes. Especially when you combine multiple slices of a magnesium rod onto a plate so you get more surface area in contact with the electrolyte.

                        It sounds like you may be having a different experience with them. What is the biggest design you have attempted?

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                        • #13
                          1 1/2 inch copper pipe, 6 inches tall. 1 inch magnesium rod, alum only. I used rubber erasers off of pencils to center it in the pipe, then used a 2 part epoxy to seal the bottom. 300 milliamps, ran for a very long time.with the height like that, it seemed like the bottom of the cell dried out, and subsequent watering did not get all the wy to the bottom. needs some kind of "wick" . I have 10 feet of pipe going to make ssmaller ones someday.

                          Tom C


                          experimental Kits, chargers and solar trackers

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I made several variations of pipe's rather than bowls and it seems to me that the bowl is important so that the crystals can breath. I mean yea my best cells are made from pipe but only a few inches in depth. It is not the shape of the pipe that I mean which makes a difference but the exposed surface area to air. I think that is why Mr. Bedini uses a bowl shape. Of course I could be way off on that but from my own observations the ones that have a bit of breathing room work best.

                            Branch you asked if anyone had tried plate designs, alfinip2000 did some and posted about them. He had trouble with his but the trouble didn't necessarily come from the shape he chose, could have been method or whatever.
                            Last edited by BobZilla; 12-12-2013, 05:41 AM.

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                            • #15
                              I just watched the crystal battery lecture DVD and John states that he tried the plate design and it didn't work as well. I think because the tubes that form in the alum that allow ion exchange form in all different directions. So if you grow your crystal on a plate only some of those open tubes are in contact with the plate.

                              I wonder if there is a way to affect the direction that those tubes grow. Maybe by growing alum in a magnetic field? Then you could really maximize efficiency.

                              Originally posted by BobZilla View Post
                              I made several variations of pipe's rather than bowls and it seems to me that the bowl is important so that the crystals can breath. I mean yea my best cells are made from pipe but only a few inches in depth. It is not the shape of the pipe that I mean which makes a difference but the exposed surface area to air. I think that is why Mr. Bedini uses a bowl shape. Of course I could be way off on that but from my own observations the ones that have a bit of breathing room work best.

                              Branch you asked if anyone had tried plate designs, alfinip2000 did some and posted about them. He had trouble with his but the trouble didn't necessarily come from the shape he chose, could have been method or whatever.

                              Comment

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