Help setting up Bedini SG properly.

[daucupace]

Hello to all,

I would need some help/advise with my current build.
Specs:
28" aluminium bicycle wheel
7x20AWG+1x23AWG prewound coil from teslagenx
7 - MJL21194G transistors bought from https://www.tme.eu/ro/details/mjl211...semiconductor/
14 - 1N4007 diodes bought from https://www.tme.eu/ro/details/1n4007...semiconductor/
7 - 100ohm 1watt 1% resistors
1- 1kohm 1watt potentiometer
1- 12ohm 10 watt resistor on trigger circuit
7 - NEON 2 from https://www.tme.eu/ro/details/neon-2.../brightmaster/
18 - ceramic c8 magnets bought from teslagenx

Presumption: I believe I made all connections correct.
Issue: I believe something is not right..current consumption is around 120mA, wheel spinns at around 90rpm. //consumption should be ~1A and RPM around 300.

From http://www.energyscienceforum.com/sh...ll=1#post31710 I found this information:
"When you connect power to the "run" battery nothing should happen. If the neons light up at this point then the trigger is backwards. If nothing happens then it is as it should be."

I tried this, when I apply power to the input, with no battery connected at the output, the neons light up shortly. Thus I thought I connected the triggers wires wrong, reversed them but the SG doesn't work at all then.
My initial issue was that the neon lights didn't lit up all at the same time, some with high white -violet intensity some with low orange intensity, this was solved by changing the potentiometer value and now all neons light up orange at the same time.

Attached pictures of the device with connections.
Thank you

[Zol]

Hi daucupace,

Try to attach also an output battery and then spin the wheel. If the neons light up, there is a mistake indeed, you should re-check the circuit.
What resistance is the potentiometer tuned to? Are you using matched transistors and resistances?

Zol

[daucupace]

Hello Zol,

There were several pictures and all details of my build, they were somehow removed...
All components were matched as good as I could get them matched.
I don't know the exact resistance since I moved the device to another place for now, but either way turned the potentiometer, the device draws less that what would be expected..
Thanks

[Zol]

Hi daucupace,

As you can see I am a junior member, and a junior SG experimenter, so I can tell you what I would do. It may not be the best advice.

1. First of all, I would consider moving back to the circuit described in Beginner's handbook. That was the first step I made, it taught me a lot. There are 470 Ohm base resistors instead of 100 Ohm, no potentiometer and no 12 Ohm resistor as it is in your build. This original setup SHOULD work if you strictly follow the instructions. Moreover, if it works, you will know there are no issues with your build. As far as I remember, my machine achieved RPM 280 at the first successful run (I use 24 magnets as it is mentioned in the Beginner's handbook)
2. After that I would strictly follow the steps in the Intermediate Handbook's fine tuning section: replacing 470 Ohm resistors with 100 Ohm and adding a single potentiometer. If you can start up the machine and find the sweet pot, only then you may remove the potentionmeter and replace it with the appropriate resistance. (I still have it anyway)

Some more thoughts:

• your device draws 120mA, which is 1/7 of the expected 1A. You have 7 power strands
• the neons should not light up!
• when using the 100 Ohm base resistor setup with the potentiometer, it is tricky to reach the highest rpm. In my case, I tune the resistor down to ~40 Ohm. The wheel spins up to ~140 RPM. At this point it draws 1,5 - 1,8A. Then I reduce the resistance dramatically, and the wheel speed starts rising. After that, I slowly increase the resistance up to 100, and reach ~320 RPM (depends on the secondary battery I connect). In the Advanced handbook, there is a 3x12Ohm resistor and a trigger switch. I didn't use them until I got to the earlier stages: Cap dump, etc.
• my setup works best with ~100 Ohm set on the potentiometer (with 100 Ohm base resistors)
• first have an up and running machine with two batteries connected (primary and secondary) before starting tests like you mentioned or the 1 Ohm test for example

And one last thing: do not skip the steps in the handbooks. Start with the SSG, aka Mode 1, aka radiant mode. Only then jump to the cap pulser.

I hope this helps,
Zol

[Zol]

Hello daucupace,

There were several pictures and all details of my build, they were somehow removed..

It is because you started two topics with the same title. As I can see, you already had reactions from senior members

Cheers,
Zol