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One-Coil SG 3D

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  • One-Coil SG 3D

    Hey All. I just wanted to share this simple one-coil SG. The print file is here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2551644
    Be Safe and Enjoy! Teslagenx has circuits and coils if needed: http://teslagenx.com/index.html

  • #2
    So far I am just using 2 of the 7 20 AWG wires. I am using TIP41C transistors, 470 ohm 1/2watt resistors, and 1n4001 & 1n4007 diodes. I chose to go with the "steel shot" core. This is the second project that I have used it in. It works great. With just the two power wires hooked up it is a magnet slinger. Don't forget your packing tape.

    Comment


    • #3
      I added a covered magnet rotor to the file. You will see that there are some bolt holes added to it. They are for a pulley system that I have in the works to take advantage of some of the mechanical force.

      I measured the rpm's that I was getting with the setup mentioned in the prior post. (2477 rpm's). That gives me slightly more events per second than the bike wheel with 18 magnets. Obviously I'm losing on the flywheel effect though.

      Comment


      • #4
        I added the wheel end caps with pulley and all other parts to accommodate just now. The bolts to use are in the description at: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2551644 The magnet cover for the wheel will greatly improve on safety.

        Doug
        Last edited by DMANN; 10-03-2017, 03:56 PM. Reason: added video

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        • #5
          Originally posted by DMANN View Post
          I added the wheel end caps with pulley and all other parts to accommodate just now. The bolts to use are in the description at: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2551644 The magnet cover for the wheel will greatly improve on safety.

          Doug
          Hi Doug,
          Very nice model! would love to see it made it as per the patent 6,545,444 with The Capacitor Discharger, that would need a timing wheel and contact brush to dump the
          discharge into the charge Battery. let me know if you need the controller to switch this discharge.
          thank you,
          Rgds,
          Faraday88
          'Wisdom comes from living out of the knowledge.'

          Comment


          • #6
            Thanks Faraday88. I want to try a variety of discharge methods. I am interested in the SCR. It was discussed in the Intermediate book in conjunction with a neon bulb but the downside was that the bulb polarized after about 20 hours. I have have also seen the SCR used in schematics here: http://www.fight-4-truth.com/schematics.html with the resister and diode in series. Can anyone explain how those components work together to discharge?

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            • #7
              Originally posted by DMANN View Post
              Thanks Faraday88. I want to try a variety of discharge methods. I am interested in the SCR. It was discussed in the Intermediate book in conjunction with a neon bulb but the downside was that the bulb polarized after about 20 hours. I have have also seen the SCR used in schematics here: http://www.fight-4-truth.com/schematics.html with the resister and diode in series. Can anyone explain how those components work together to discharge?
              Hi Doug,
              I love experimentation and finding out for myself what methods work in different situations etc... My 2 cents - the SCR method is crap, JB as much as said so as well. Not sure why it's in the book, even the Negistor method is better.

              Honestly, when it comes to silicon, Bob has one of the most interesting cap dump threads here in this forum. He is using an arduino mosfet combo. Very simple and easy to get started for as little as 10 bucks.

              That being said, I would be interested to see if you or anyone can or has been able to get the SCR working stable enough to walk away from a machine like yours Doug.

              Kind Regards - Patrick

              Comment


              • #8
                I have to agree with Patrick, SCR's in a cap dump circuit do not work very good and are hard to keep working as things change.... Mosfets are much better to work with...... and Bob has a good setup going... I've used a Basic Stamp to trigger various Cap dump and back pop circuits...... am working with Arduinos lately, but have not used them for cap dumps yet....

                JB's 741 op amp comparator circuit triggering MOSFETS is one of the best trigger circuits / cap pulser's I have built and tested .......
                Last edited by RS_; 10-06-2017, 07:37 PM.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Faraday88 View Post
                  Hi Doug,
                  Very nice model! would love to see it made it as per the patent 6,545,444 with The Capacitor Discharger, that would need a timing wheel and contact brush to dump the
                  discharge into the charge Battery. let me know if you need the controller to switch this discharge.
                  thank you,
                  Rgds,
                  Faraday88
                  Decided to start out with the manual capacitor dump first. I still need to add the brush contact points and decide on the capacitors. I just wanted to see if the SG had enough torque for the application. There are quite a few other things I need to tidy up on before I release the files but you can see that it is near completion. Here is a video of it turning the pulleys. You can see the top pulley turns the cam about once a second. The base for the small pulleys are 53mm skateboard wheels. I went with the ABEC 5 bearings. Everything turns smoothly.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by DMANN View Post
                    Decided to start out with the manual capacitor dump first. I still need to add the brush contact points and decide on the capacitors. I just wanted to see if the SG had enough torque for the application. There are quite a few other things I need to tidy up on before I release the files but you can see that it is near completion. Here is a video of it turning the pulleys. You can see the top pulley turns the cam about once a second. The base for the small pulleys are 53mm skateboard wheels. I went with the ABEC 5 bearings. Everything turns smoothly.

                    Great!!!! it looks like you have introduced some speed reduction to time the Cap dump....but none- the- less it is a beauty!!
                    Next: make it perform as good as it looks..yes as per Pat# 6,545,444..i shall post mine...
                    Rgds,
                    Faraday88.
                    'Wisdom comes from living out of the knowledge.'

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Faraday88 View Post
                      Great!!!! it looks like you have introduced some speed reduction to time the Cap dump....but none- the- less it is a beauty!!
                      Next: make it perform as good as it looks..yes as per Pat# 6,545,444..i shall post mine...
                      Rgds,
                      Faraday88.
                      Yes..Please. I would like to see your version. What do you use for the contact points? I have seen where individuals have used copper or brass stripes for contact points. In this recent Youtube video Oliver uses a commercially available micro switch: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LJWt...47_b6QP5Zv9OtA It is only rated for 10 Amps though. That seems like it would severely limit the potential. I have some carbon contact points from power tool brushed motors that I would like to try. Hitachi tools use a energy recovery method with their tools for efficiency. Their carbon mixture with their replacement brushes would probably fit the bill for this type of work. What has been your observation of performance with your device?

                      Thanks
                      Doug

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                      • #12
                        I have added the parts for the pulley reduction mechanical capacitor discharge system to the Thingiverse file. Here is a video:

                        I have quite a bit of work in front of me for matching capacitors and discharge rate. I have a 260 volt radiant spike with my setup. I am discharging about 1/sec. It charges to 90V and discharges to 40-50V on two 200V 85uF electrolytic capacitors paralleled. Copper to copper welds and carbon to copper turns carbon to dust rather quickly.

                        Doug

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                        • #13
                          Doug,

                          Looking real good, great work designing and printing all the parts....

                          I have used automotive Ignition Points for the contact's, and they work well with 30-40V on the caps, dumping down to 15V or so, and lasted a long time.......

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by DMANN View Post
                            I have added the parts for the pulley reduction mechanical capacitor discharge system to the Thingiverse file. Here is a video:

                            I have quite a bit of work in front of me for matching capacitors and discharge rate. I have a 260 volt radiant spike with my setup. I am discharging about 1/sec. It charges to 90V and discharges to 40-50V on two 200V 85uF electrolytic capacitors paralleled. Copper to copper welds and carbon to copper turns carbon to dust rather quickly.

                            Doug
                            Nice work!
                            I'm pretty sure you do not want the volts to get that high with so many uF. Those are packing a big punch, wouldn't want your batteries to explode :-)
                            Downloaded the files, will have to add this to my do list - thanks!
                            - Patrick

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              That is a battery beater for sure!

                              Great work as always Doug, thanks for sharing your work.

                              If you are trying out different things for your contact I have a suggestion. If you get an auto relay they have a spring loaded slap switch inside. If you don't want to use the actuator coil for the action you can just glue a little rod or something onto the switch and manually drive it. The covers pop right off and you have a little coil and contacts in there. They don't last forever but nothing does with bare metal switching. You can get them for about three bucks all over the place, usually in about 40A load rate.

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