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Bobs 1st 3D Project

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  • Ed_Morbus
    replied
    Thanks for sharing
    Have you schematic or link

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  • BobZilla
    replied
    Hello Group,

    I have created a few versions of decks for this machine and posted them in the shared folder.
    https://1drv.ms/f/s!AmzmftzD-V0miHNbZQMvNTgPddSR

    I also made a few improvements on some of the other files, the reed hold is a little different than before for example. Over all I am getting better with the editor so I have gone back over some of my earlier work and improved things. There are now decks with terminal blocks and places for switches and SSR's. Eventually I may update that document and list the screws and nuts but I mentioned them a few posts back. There are two SSR holder versions, one for the crydom 40A listed in the build notes and another for the small 4A cheapies from asia which actually work pretty well on these machines. There are also plain decks so that you could glue whatever hardware your using on without the extra stuff in the way.

    Here is a picture of one I finished building tonight with the cheap SSR's. It's not tested yet but should be fine. I will just have to unhook the coils from the old deck and unbolt it and put his one on instead.

    BZ-3D-newdeck.jpg

    Here is a short video I shot where I am explaining how the circuits are hooked up. If anyone grabbed the old files I would just scrap them and download the latest version. Many of them are the same anyway but I'm just saying the folder has been updated with new stuff that has had more scrutiny by me.

    Video Link:
    https://1drv.ms/v/s!AmzmftzD-V0miWDbine2imhH8Mry

    Leave a comment:


  • BobZilla
    replied
    I hear you John,,I have been going at it pretty hard lately but I go through periods where I just can't keep dumping money and time into it.

    I am working on something that I will probably share once I get a full one printed and make sure there are no mistakes. This is a little off-topic but not really since many of us have solar panels. I am working on some mounts that hold those floppy china panels. It's basically slotted for the panel to slip into and then the frame arms are going to be cut half inch PVC pipe. It will hold the panels at an angle of 32 degrees which for my latitude is supposed to be optimal for stationary panels.

    Here is a preview picture, this is just the frame so you have to imagine the PVC extending out and the panel inserted. In the picture everything is scrunched together.

    BZ-SolarPanel Mounts angle.JPG

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  • John_Koorn
    replied
    I agree with Tom, this is a fascinating topic and if I had the time and resources I'd be building as well.

    John K.

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  • BobZilla
    replied
    Thanks Tom. I hope that you do get a chance to build this one. it's exactly as you have said, this is like a golden age for us builders with these 3D printers. You know I was designing things in cad and having them fabricated way back but this is different. This makes it easy and repeatable. I had a bit of a rant about people not seeming interested which I am over now but it does baffle me that the time has come when we can design and share and replicate with such ease and people truly do not seem very interested.

    Everyone I am posting an optional file to the folder for this machine "DeckwTblock". This deck has terminal blocks built into the file and you just need some #8 screws/washers and some square nuts to slip in for anchoring the screw. It saves some space and money compared to the store bought terminal blocks.

    Generally speaking you want to always check the folders before you start printing the model because I may add things. With this new file I would recommend printing the version with T blocks for the front and the original for the back.

    Here is the link to the folder again, this has been posted already in this thread and does not change as things get added.
    https://1drv.ms/f/s!AmzmftzD-V0miHNbZQMvNTgPddSR

    Here is the optional deck:
    BZ-DeckwTblock.JPG

    Leave a comment:


  • Tom C
    replied
    Bob,

    I am planning on completely replicating this motor!! life has gotten in the way and between my day Job, church, TeslagenX, and my sons ranger outpost it leaves little time for fun.... I have been starting to do custom coils recently, and that has been challenging. starting to work with RTV mold materials for encasing coils in epoxy etc...

    even if I never get to it, it has been a great pleasure watching you work. I knew 3D printing would be a game changer in this arena of ideas, glad to see you taking that step and running with it. never before has it been so easy to think up an idea and then make it!!

    Tom C

    Leave a comment:


  • BobZilla
    replied
    Originally posted by Richard
    Bob, I'm not sure what you intend to accomplish with this mechanical divider so I may be off in my suggestion, but have you considered a logic circuit? They take extremely small amounts of power, are cheap and easy to construct, easy to change the dividing number and are fast. You can control and adjust the timing by moving the magnet at the rotating component or by electronic means.
    Hi Richard,
    There are a few reasons for why I am playing with this gear but yea there are many ways to setup timing circuits. I have built tons of cap dumpers and solid state chargers using mostly arduino for the logic.

    This gear here is just a fun project as I said I have thought about for along time and now I have a way to pursue it with the 3D printer.

    Another thing is that this whole machine has been presented for people to download and print if they want to so by adding a gear such as this it is a simple way for them to utilize a cap dump if they want without getting to technical with micro controllers and more complicated approaches. It's possible to even switch small loads just on a reed with this depending on what someone is trying to do, but over all I am trying to keep things simple so that anyone can have success with the model. In the same way that I gave instructions for the simplest wiring for the build this keeps it simple as well, but adds a timed function with just a few more parts to print. Honestly I don't know if anyone winds up using this stuff but I am building mine and having fun with it and have no problem sharing for others.
    Last edited by BobZilla; 08-17-2017, 08:43 PM.

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  • BobZilla
    replied
    Originally posted by Richard
    Nice Geneva Wheel. It takes lots of design work for those. I believe they are inherently clunky and perhaps not expected to run at high speed.
    For my purpose this one is doing a nice job but it could be a problem at higher speeds. It makes a clacking noise that makes it seem more clunky than it actually is though. Think about this method verses a pully/belt reduction for a moment. With this the only time you have mechanical resistance is when that peg travels the slot, otherwise it is free spinning. A pulley and belt is dragging 100 percent of the time, and toothed gears are pretty much the same. The other thing is that it does not take up as much space because you do not need such a huge pulley for the reduction.

    I have been wanting to make this for years but until the 3D printers came along I was not able to prototype. Having a machine shop fabricate things gets expensive and you can bet that what you see here was not my first attempt. The printer allows my to adjust and try again instead of sending off to a machinist for more money and waiting a few weeks with fingers crossed that the adjustments are correct.
    Last edited by BobZilla; 08-17-2017, 06:37 AM.

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  • BobZilla
    replied
    Today I am posting a video showing my reduction gear system for cap dumping. This is not the full system but rather a look at the mechanical portion.

    I will hook up a SSR or a FET to the reed to switch some power.

    Link:
    https://1drv.ms/v/s!AmzmftzD-V0miR675obNFJM6ntAe

    Leave a comment:


  • BobZilla
    replied
    Greetings,
    Today I am posting a chart and video of the machine doing a mode 1 run on a garden battery.

    Draw is about 700ma and it was about 27 hours but I actually let it run a bit longer than it needed too. This is teh build version exactly as described in the builder notes, SSR with 3 sets of coils in series/parallel.

    BZ-9 pole mode1 chg.JPG

    BZ-9 pole mode1 Pri.JPG

    Video:
    https://1drv.ms/v/s!AmzmftzD-V0miRtsXEGUm2J_qGfe

    Leave a comment:


  • Michael Luton
    replied
    You're attitude is right, I'm wrong not giving feedback and using what you put out.

    I think I got what you are saying about the timing and the poles now. I am used to thinking of the lenz effect in regards to the electrical current and was not considering the physical magnet. I need to sit down and draw myself some diagrams to further evaluate things and this will have a major impact on some things I am considering.

    Leave a comment:


  • BobZilla
    replied
    Hi Michael,
    Thanks for the encouragement. I am starting to come off as a crybaby which I didn't really want to do but I had just felt that it was not worth the effort. It's nice to hear that it is appreciated.

    AS for the south pole stuff think of it in a very simple way with me for a moment. On this machine I am setting the coils to fire when the pole is almost directly over the coil core which places the actual magnet almost exactly between two coils. You will have no induction at that point because the magnets are far away from the core so when the primary charges the core and collapses there is no inducted signal to interfere. With me on that?

    Now I was hoping people would think on it and realize this other point but I will expand on it for you to ponder a bit deeper. There is a lot of talk about the ZFM lately and I'm sure those guys might jump all over me for saying this but what I am describing functions the same way. There is NO LENZ when timing this way. There is not much torque either because this is not a prime mover so it's not the same as a ZFM, not used for the same purpose but that characteristic is the same, no LENZ no induction. When the magnet is actually over the core on this setup it would like to induce a lenz except the SSR is in an OPEN state at that point, in other words the lead back to the negative is NOT engaged, there is no loop. The drag from lenz is only increased when current flows and in this situation there is nowhere for it to flow because the open SSR does not permit the loop back to ground.

    A very similar situation occurs even on a regular setup because the trigger is inducted but not on the first half of the wave, it's on the later so that by the time the power coils fire the magnet has left the core, hence the 23 degrees. Even more so when your talking about a multi coil in which you slide the trigger coil over a bit. The cloverleaf pattern of the coil field has always been used, the upper left quadrant but turning the coil around accents that fact and then with it turned you have access to the other field as well, using both polarities. Anyway it's something to think about.

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  • Michael Luton
    replied
    Bob I am one of those guilty of lurking on this and other threads for some time now. Have been very busy and time limited and will be at least to the end of September. I don't have a 3-d printer and don't see one in the foreseeable future. That said I try to follow any thread you present on because of your novel approach on things. Your video on the south poles really got me. I am still trying to fully get my head around the explanation you gave in the thread of how that works on the timing. I am probably trying to read too much into the whole thing. your ideas have been helping me simplify a project I've been trying to design that keeps getting over-complicated on me. Thanks for everything.

    Michael

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  • BobZilla
    replied
    Thanks for confirming Patrick.

    @all
    I deleted the zip as mentioned but hosted the same files uncompressed so they should be fine moving forward.

    Leave a comment:


  • min2oly
    replied
    Originally posted by BobZilla View Post
    Yes John that was what I meant. I'm not going to drag out the tissue and start crying about it but yea sometimes it feels like a lot of wasted effort. I was not reacting so much to this post in particular but more of an aggregate from most of the posting I have for awhile now.


    You know you spend hours preparing something to share, sometimes the experiment your sharing has taken days to gather the data and you post it only to find that nobody seems to care. Occasionally you do get a few comments but it's just pretty low participation. I'm not expecting people to run out and build what I'm building but there is usually not much discussion so whats the point. For example you know awhile back I demonstrated an all metal build, I mean no transistors or diodes, you would think that would get a forum of builders excited enough to talk about it but not really as it turned out.

    Look guys I can see there is enough interest in this right now so I will keep it going.


    @Richard
    It sounds like your on a machine that does not have a file association for .STL files so it's using the wrong program. These files are STL's that need to be loaded into a slicer program for 3D printing. That program creates yet another file in another format .gcode which is leaded to the printer.

    I'm making a lot of assumptions here but if you were to install Cura then you would be able to open those files.

    The 9 pole was chosen for a few reasons but I don't want to get into all of them. The most obvious is the field structure and it's offset. When you have 8 poles you have two coils facing exactly opposite versus the 9 pole you will have 2 at the top and one at the bottom. Think of it by just drawing a line from the coil core in to the axle and back out, the 8 pole cancels while the 9 pole does not intersect.

    @All
    Anyone else actually get the files loaded into a slicer? I don't think there is anything wrong with the files but it's possible that the online storage is goofing them up.

    I have posted these files differently now, maybe easier. I'm deleting the ZIP file and just hosting each file from a directory. I also made a 8 pole version of the relevant parts. The two versions still share a lot of the same parts.

    Here is the new link, any more revisions will also go here.

    Link:
    https://1drv.ms/f/s!AmzmftzD-V0miHNbZQMvNTgPddSR
    Original zipped files are fine I have no problem with them.
    - Patrick

    Leave a comment:

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