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  • motor with ssg circuit not working help please

    hello my name is andre and I am a very noob in electronics but i am busting at the seems to try it out for myself so please forgive any naivete on my part.

    i am trying to suply my house with this motor, the idea is running the motor that will run an alternator and the alternator will power the inverter.

    the whells are made of aluminium 45cm diameter, the magnets are 7,5cm 5cm 2cm, pull force 10,1 kg , the circuit i used 2n3055 transistor, and i tried to use 470ohm resistor with 1w, and also with 0,5w ,
    i also tried with mjl21194 transistor. the wire is AWG 20 and AWG 24 for trigger.

    any thoughts why the motor does not work?

    i made before one bedini motor with a bicycle wheel with ssg circuit one transistor and that one worked..

    any help would be very nice

    best regards
    Attached Files

  • #2
    Originally posted by PradeepKumar
    Check out with the connections and the load. Even these can hinder the proper functioning of the motor.
    hello PradeepKumar, i check everything is ok. i try different loads nothing works. i thing is not trigger the transistor how can i calculate the resistors that i had to use? i have to use an oscilloscope to tune? thanks for your replay.

    best regards

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by andre_kaetano View Post
      hello PradeepKumar, i check everything is ok. i try different loads nothing works. i thing is not trigger the transistor how can i calculate the resistors that i had to use? i have to use an oscilloscope to tune? thanks for your replay.

      best regards
      Have you tried switching/swapping the trigger wires?
      take the trigger wire that is connected to the neg of the battery and put it on your POT and take the trigger wire that is connected to the POT and put it to the neg of the battery.
      - Patrick

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by min2oly View Post
        Have you tried switching/swapping the trigger wires?
        take the trigger wire that is connected to the neg of the battery and put it on your POT and take the trigger wire that is connected to the POT and put it to the neg of the battery.
        - Patrick
        hello Patrick,
        i tried to do what you said but it doesn't work... do you have any suggestions?
        best regards and thank for the replay

        Comment


        • #5
          Hi andre_kaetano,

          I don't see any common negative primary battery connection to the emitters in your photos. Where do you have the primary battery negative connected? It appears to be connected only to the trigger coil.

          Also, the magnets are oriented the wrong way on the wheel for best performance. The long dimension of the magnets should be across the width of the wheel. The narrower dimension is about the same as the diameter of the core, which is required for best switching and the longer dimension is about the same as the diameter of the coil windings. The way you have it, the magnet is over the core too long each pass, and the coil winding isn't exposed to all the available magnetic flux.
          Last edited by Gary Hammond; 05-12-2016, 05:11 PM.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by Gary Hammond View Post
            Hi andre_kaetano,

            I don't see any common negative primary battery connection to the emitters in your photos. Where do you have the primary battery negative connected? It appears to be connected only to the trigger coil.

            Also, the magnets are oriented the wrong way on the wheel for best performance. The long dimension of the magnets should be across the width of the wheel. The narrower dimension is about the same as the diameter of the core, which is required for best switching and the longer dimension is about the same as the diameter of the coil windings. The way you have it, the magnet is over the core too long each pass, and the coil winding isn't exposed to all the available magnetic flux.
            Good eye Gary, emitter to primary neg.
            I see the other picture now regarding my question of the extra diode. It's actually from the transistor on the far right...
            Disregard my previous post and listen to Gary :-)
            Patrick

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by min2oly View Post
              Good eye Gary, emitter to primary neg.
              I see the other picture now regarding my question of the extra diode. It's actually from the transistor on the far right...
              Disregard my previous post and listen to Gary :-)
              Patrick
              Hi All,
              Which extra diode..? I guess its the base -emitter protection....!
              Rgds,
              Faraday88.
              'Wisdom comes from living out of the knowledge.'

              Comment


              • #8
                Use a continuity tester between collector and emitter while you fiddle with it. The kind with sound is best. It can tell you a lot.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Gary Hammond View Post
                  Hi andre_kaetano,

                  I don't see any common negative primary battery connection to the emitters in your photos. Where do you have the primary battery negative connected? It appears to be connected only to the trigger coil.

                  Also, the magnets are oriented the wrong way on the wheel for best performance. The long dimension of the magnets should be across the width of the wheel. The narrower dimension is about the same as the diameter of the core, which is required for best switching and the longer dimension is about the same as the diameter of the coil windings. The way you have it, the magnet is over the core too long each pass, and the coil winding isn't exposed to all the available magnetic flux.
                  hello Gary Hammond,

                  thank you so much you are the best i miss that Now I can hear the sound of the coil when I turn the variable resistance which is a good sign.
                  but is not working...
                  I think now it will be a problem with the resistances to fire the transistors? what do you think?
                  And I will change the magnet as you said.

                  thanks for all the replies kind regards to all
                  Last edited by andre_kaetano; 05-13-2016, 07:13 AM.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Hi andre_kaetano,

                    Try unhooking all but one power winding and one transistor to see if you can get it running. It's easier to work with only one circuit at a time. Then when you get it running on one, you can hook the rest of them up the same way.

                    Also try reversing the trigger leads again. Try it both ways. It will only work one way, and is an easy thing to check out. I think Patrick already mentioned this to you.

                    And turn the magnets long ways across the width of the wheel. You do have all the magnets with the same polarity facing out don't you? Either all north out or all south out?

                    I'm sure you already know from the first one you built that these do not self start. The wheel must be spun fast enough by hand to get it triggering and running.

                    You said in your first post ......
                    i am trying to suply my house with this motor, the idea is running the motor that will run an alternator and the alternator will power the inverter.
                    This is not a motor, but rather an energizer. It won't pull a conventional alternator or generator. But it will charge batteries that can be used to power inverters or dc loads.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      hello Gary Hammond,

                      i will try to work with one transistor at the time as you and Patrick mentioned.

                      i will correct the magnets tomorrow the magnets are all north face.

                      i now this not a motor but is possible to do that look this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FLnE...29ED97083A1382

                      but i not to worried about that i am having fun

                      thanks again for your replay and i will let you know tomorrow my improvements

                      kind regards

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        hello Gary Hammond,
                        IMG_20160514_212441.jpgIMG_20160514_212534.jpgIMG_20160514_212635.jpgIMG_20160514_212635.jpgIMG_20160514_212737.jpgIMG_20160514_212742.jpg
                        that is my improvements today
                        the magnets is not fixed on the wheel yet. tomorrow i will fix them
                        i tried to run the motor but it does't work, i used for trigger 1k potentiometer and resistors between 0 ohm to 100k ohm 1/4W, and the sound of the coil became more intense when i used the lower resistors, so i guess that i have to buy a potentiometer lower then 1k and trying again. what do you think?
                        best regards

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          IMG_20160514_212941.jpg
                          i used a DC power supply 13,8v 6-8amps instead of a battery car, it is ok?
                          it is possible to use a variac?

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            i am work with one circuit like you and patrick mentioned, and i tried to reversing the trigger but when i do that the coil don’t make any sound.
                            best regards to all and thank you for the help

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Hi Andre,

                              Your magnet holders look good. Space them as evenly apart as you can. It is also important to balance the wheel and use good free running bearings to get the longest free spin time you can. Try for at least 10 minutes of free run time.

                              The resistors on the base of each transistor should all be matched. Use 470 ohm, 1 watt resistors that all measure within one ohm of each other for when all seven transistors are being used. The seven transistors should also be beta matched for best results. You will probably need a single 15 ohm 10 watt resistor in series with the trigger coil and branch resistors as well. This is the tuning resistor and may be anywhere between 0 ohms and 50 ohms depending on your particular build. You can use a high power (10 watt minimum) 100 ohm potentiometer here instead, but the fixed resistor is more reliable once you determine the proper value for your particular build.

                              Your DC power supply probably will work, but not as well as a 12 volt battery of at least 13 AH rating. Even though the average current draw is well within the rating of the power supply, it's internal resistance is higher than the proper sized battery and will limit the instantaneous current pulse which can exceed the rating of the power supply. This is especially true when you finally have all seven devices working. And the high voltage radiant spikes can also get back into the power supply and cause damage to it.

                              Please describe the sound you are hearing from the coil. If it's a constant hum when the wheel is not turning, you are experiencing self resonance from too much trigger resistance. If its a faint tick each time a magnet passes the coil, that's a normal sound and indicates that the coil is being triggered and should run.

                              I also noticed in your first post a photo that shows a second wheel attached to the shaft. This may be putting enough extra drag on the machine to keep it from running, or at least getting enough speed to start on initial spin up by hand.

                              Where did you get the instructions for building your first single coil machine? If you don't already have the Bedini SG beginners handbook written by Peter Lindemann
                              I highly recommend that you get a copy of it. It's the only publication officially authorized by John Bedini the inventor. There's a series of three books available for more advanced study, but the first one is essential for understanding and building the device. The books are downloadable from here. http://bedinisg.com/

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