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Jelloir's SG Build

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  • #16
    Hi James,
    2 amps is not too bad for an 8 tranny setup like yours. You can adjust it a but but as you said you will have months of fun learning how little changes affect things. It is just something that we learn from experience.

    You should be able to charge the 65AH batteries, I charge 75AH and 100AH with my system. When running with the comparator you may find that you need to find the right balance between the frequency of the dump and getting it to charge. Let me explain from my experience.

    I do not have a comparator like you have but my setup works in a similar way. I use an aurduino micro controller to set the timing of my dumps and have a meter to see the voltage so for my setup it is a manual adjustment. In other words mine does not have the logic to dump at "X" voltage, I adjust the time in ms and get it to dump where I want. With that said I generally will dump about as your does, 25-30 volts.

    Now what I was getting at is I have found that there needs to be a balance of how much amperage the dump has and how often. If you have say 10a but only every 2 seconds it might not be enough to keep the charge moving, it will just sort of slosh back and fourth. On the other hand if you go too quickly say every half second, you will not get enough amperage to move it. Your system is different from mine but the point is depending on the size of the battery there are factors to consider, time between dumps AND the capacity of the dump (and of course voltage). To much or too little of either and you may not charge.

    Anyway it is just something to keep in mind. Your comparator works differently in that you set a voltage and it takes care of the timing. For mine I can swap out capacitors and adjust the timing to get what I need to charge. Smaller cap = faster dumps at a voltage,, larger cap = slower dumps at same voltage but more amps.

    Over all I think you are off to a great start and you will have a lot of fun with this. Don't sweat every detail, just learn from the machine. The gears switching is because of the impedance fluctuation in the cap and the rpm at startup. It is completely normal. If you were to install a pot in your trigger and run without the comparator you will get a better understanding of all that. When it is in first gear basically you are double spiking because of an induction tickling the base a second time.

    Have fun man, you have built a great machine and it will serve you well!

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    • #17
      I got my tachometer and I'm getting about 435 RPM on the 20", 17 magnet bike wheel, which seems good.

      Thanks for the detailed insight, its much appreciated. I am beginning to understand the pulse rate and current to battery correlation. John's analogy of kicking the soccer ball from the EFV dvd was useful to me also. Give the ions a big kick and as they are slowing down kick them again!

      I bought a 85A, 1200V diode so I can give generator mode 2 and mode 4 a try. Is there something about mode 4 (gen mode to charge cap) that means you wouldn't usually use it? It seems like it turbo charges the SSG and can maintain the run battery as well, my eyes were popping out of my head when John was showing that on the DVD.

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      • #18
        Hi jelloir,

        85 A 1200V why so much over rated Diode....reserve these for E.V Gray Experiments..
        Rgs,
        Faraday88.
        'Wisdom comes from living out of the knowledge.'

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        • #19
          Hi Guys, Just a little update on my progress thus far, managed to get a few golf cart batteries to attempt to rejuvenate. I'll look at the whole COP thing once I have my new batteries formed.

          Loving it!

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          • #20
            Looking good James!

            I don't know how much you know about rejuvenating them but a little advice...

            If they are really sulphated they will be sluggish to take on the charge but it you get a small load like an auto bulb or something like that and just keep pulling a bit off then back to the charge, then pull a bit off then back again and so on it will start the process to where they will start to take more of a charge. It is sort of like giving them a little warm up exercise. They may top out at only 12.5 or lower and the chart goes flat, that is fine if you keep at it they will improve.

            In some ways I think it is more fun to take an old crusty battery and whip it back to life than it is to get brand new ones.

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            • #21
              Originally posted by BobZilla View Post
              Looking good James!

              I don't know how much you know about rejuvenating them but a little advice...

              If they are really sulphated they will be sluggish to take on the charge but it you get a small load like an auto bulb or something like that and just keep pulling a bit off then back to the charge, then pull a bit off then back again and so on it will start the process to where they will start to take more of a charge. It is sort of like giving them a little warm up exercise. They may top out at only 12.5 or lower and the chart goes flat, that is fine if you keep at it they will improve.

              In some ways I think it is more fun to take an old crusty battery and whip it back to life than it is to get brand new ones.
              Thanks for that Bob,

              So depending on the battery would using this bulb method be better than using the discharge function of the CBAIV. My plan was to pretty much follow Peter's Battery Rejuvenation video (except with an SSG). I totally agree about it being fun trying to rejuvenate batteries, I'm really enjoying it.

              I have been thinking how useful it would be to have a circuit that could disconnect the trigger coil when the voltage of the run battery gets low say 11V or the charge battery hits 15.2. I have looked up a few using Zener diodes etc. Forrest Mimms book has a circuit that could be adapted to this. Has anyone done this and have a schematic they could share?

              Also, it turns out my old multimeter shown in the vid is inaccurate and out by about +.16 volts depending on voltage and would fluctuate. No wonder I thought it was a joke trying to use it as my results were all wrong I have bought a nice Bryman and an Extech now.

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              • #22
                Hi James I didn't notice this post until just now...

                You could use the CBA or the bulb. There is a difference though because the CBA is a constant current but the bulb is not. I think it really depends on the battery you are working on, the bulb at first perhaps. I say that because I have brought back batteries that litterally would only hold a small load like th ebulb for 30 seconds starting out. It would not be worth setting up the CBA to do this over and over but later on when it starts responding it would make sense. Like I said i think it really will depend on the battery you are working on.

                Many of the ones I have worked on were so bad off they behaved as a complete short. The voltage will rise to 60+ volts and then back down. It is the impedance doing that. I do not just keep the charge going when this happens, I put the charge to it for only a min or two then put a load, then again, and again, and again, and so on. Eventually you free up some small portion of the plate and the impedance lowers and you get a bit longer of a load time. Doing this over and over will eventually get the battery behaving normally provided it is only sulphation and not a real shorted cell. It is just something you get a feel for after awhile.

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                • #23
                  I thought it would be fun to post some updated pics of what my SSG looks like now. It's been through countless experiments and is now settled in for a rather large Trojan 8V battery rejuvination project. It's about to get some backup from a second SSG and a Tesla charger otherwise I will be waiting a long... long time.

                  I moved the Comparator so it receives the airflow of the wheel so I needn't cool the heatsink with a separate fan, works really well.

                  rejuvinator.jpg

                  trojan8.jpg

                  James
                  Last edited by jelloir; 11-09-2014, 06:28 AM.

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                  • #24
                    hi jelloir

                    i see you have a nice bunch of batterys there to do

                    maybe you can try our trick to speed it up a few notches
                    discharge them slowly whilst under charge. c20 ratio
                    we noticed here on all batterys we did so far that this speeds up the process. and i would like to see others try this method.
                    i know its against all common sense and do it at own risk but we have the results to show
                    you will notice on bad sulfated batterys that the beginning is slow going but at a sudden moment you will see a point where voltage at the battery starts to climb again under discharge.
                    our current battery witch is chowing this effect is a traction battery witch was not able to climb above 13 volt and we discharge it to 11.2 ( value under discharge at the wheel) volt for now
                    we notice every discharge that the battery drops to 11.25 and then climbs back to 11.3 verry slowly.
                    but every time lasts longer and longer and accid levels are rising in the battery ( gravimetrick measurment)
                    every cicle charged voltage goes up a bit (now at 13.55)

                    kind regards
                    stef

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                    • #25
                      it is not wise to charge and discharge at same time NOTHING WILL KILL A BATTERY FASTER , one should not right a rule book on the behavior of one battery just saying

                      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K4__eH9-MXk
                      Last edited by guyzzemf; 11-12-2014, 02:20 AM.

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                      • #26
                        Thanks Stef, In one of JB's EFV DVD's he talks about car batteries being charged and discharged at the same time. It makes the battery shed lead... not good. I'm just following Peter Lindemann Battery Secrets and Battery Rejuvination and advise from users on the forum about taking a little out, charge some more, take a little out, charge more.

                        Thanks

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                        • #27
                          I built my second SSG a couple of weeks back. It's the bigger brother of my existing SSG. The frame is slightly larger and fitted out with the classic SSG specs, 26" steel rim x 21 magnets, Teslagenx board but with a 9 filar coil from http://www.aussiecoils.com to use all 8 Transistors. Some good news is that I got 1:1 in gen mode, hurray!!!, but in radiant mode it still eludes me I'm really starting to think the batteries I bought for testing are garbage. I'll probably do some more COP testing in a few weeks and might post a youtube vid.

                          So here they are working on some 12V Trojan's, Big Woody is taking a rest at the moment while I pull some energy out of it's charge battery. More good news is that these 12V Trojan's are coming good! I can now top 2 of them on my TST5 after having pummled them with my Comparator and Radiant charging. The other 2 haven't been in the rejunation cycle that long but I'm sure they will come good as well.

                          rejuvinators.jpg
                          thelads.jpg
                          Last edited by jelloir; 12-14-2014, 05:39 AM.

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                          • #28
                            Great looking build man! What AWG wire do you have on your new coil?

                            Originally posted by jelloir View Post
                            I built my second SSG a couple of weeks back. It's the bigger brother of my existing SSG. The frame is slightly larger and fitted out with the classic SSG specs, 26" steel rim x 21 magnets, Teslagenx board but with a 9 filar coil from http://www.aussiecoils.com to use all 8 Transistors. Some good news is that I got 1:1 in gen mode, hurray!!!, but in radiant mode it still eludes me I'm really starting to think the batteries I bought for testing are garbage. I'll probably do some more COP testing in a few weeks and might post a youtube vid.

                            So here they are working on some 12V Trojan's, Big Woody is taking a rest at the moment while I pull some energy out of it's charge battery. More good news is that these 12V Trojan's are coming good! I can now top 2 of them on my TST5 after having pummled them with my Comparator and Radiant charging. The other 2 haven't been in the rejunation cycle that long but I'm sure they will come good as well.

                            [ATTACH=CONFIG]4240[/ATTACH]
                            [ATTACH=CONFIG]4241[/ATTACH]

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                            • #29
                              Hey Branch, Thanks! Just standard #20/#23 config.

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                              • #30
                                Nice looking build, Jelloir. Can't wait to see it checked out and running...
                                Best Regards ~ James, Somewhere In Idaho

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