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Bedini SSG Multi-Coil

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  • Nice build. I assume the magnets are scalar north? if not then change them to scalar north. also all 3 of those copper bus pipes, need to have the ends tied together to for an inductance loop, especially the charge battery positive. also diodes should be voltage drop matched across the junction, resistors to bases should be exactly the same. your charging will go up if you close the charge battery positive bus.

    pleas post pics of collector after diode, trigger at base. want to see the slope of the trigger signal.

    Tom C
    Tom

    Hi Tom C,

    Above in the Highlighted is my doubt..
    Rgds,
    Faraday88.
    'Wisdom comes from living out of the knowledge.'

    Comment


    • Hi Tom. I'm completely new to this forum but have read quite a bit of info that you have shared. I read through the Bedini SG handbook series and in that book only a single magnet is used. I have a different set of construction plans that also uses two magnets glued together but with north and south face glued and then north side of magnets facing out of the rotor. What you are saying that squishing the magnets together and gluing North on North, the magnetic field gets squished outward and creating a narrow north magnetic field on the outside?... How do the two settups differe from each other as far as magnetic strength and field width go? (how does it affect the overall performance on the SG?)
      Thanks

      Ernie

      Comment


      • E-unit,

        the north to north magnet arrangement provides faster switching as the field is narrower. it is harder to run efficiently. this is often called scalar north, or squish field arrangement. the scalar north arrangement is lousy if you want to run a generator coil also. regular north out magnets are easiest to get running.

        buld it with all north not scalar.

        Tom C


        experimental Kits, chargers and solar trackers

        Comment


        • Originally posted by Dave Wing View Post
          Hi Stane nice build,

          I define a dead battery to be a battery that is deemed to be no good, after a reasonable amount of charge and discharge cycles. If you have been working on a battery for six months and it still has not come back to a reasonable condition, then it should be recycled, get yourself the $15.00 for lead and cut your losses.

          In order to tell if a battery is useable you must do a resistive load test on it and record the time under load at the C-20 rate (or rate of your choosing) for a baseline. If you are not seeing somewhere between 80- 110% capacity, in this resistive test after five charge and discharge cycles, get new or different batteries... Don' t waste any more time on them.

          If you are looking for high COP's from your machine then, John and Tom have given excellent advice, get new batteries... Locate yourself some Good deep cycle golf cart batteries that are brand new, with the closest manufacturing date to the purchasing date, this ensures they are fresh and have very limited sulfate build up upon the internal battery plates from sitting on the shelve too long, after having been filled with electrolyte. Or find some new batteries that are not yet filled with electrolyte, to eliminate the sulfate problem spoken about above...spend the dollars, then never look back. Check out this great link for more info... http://www.energyscienceforum.com/be...nce-using.html

          If your batteries are not climbing up over 14.4 volts that is a good indication that the lead peroxide material on the positive plate has partially fallen of the plates and is resting at the bottom of the battery case, never to be used again. This fallen lead peroxide material can also cause shorting of the battery plates if it is alowed to make contact between a positive and negative plate, within a cell or multiple cells. This could be one of the reasons the battery you spoke of above, is constantly falling in voltage to low levels in a relatively short period of time after being freshly charged. The battery is most likely mechanically damaged beyond repair and no charger or SG will fix this type of problem and again you are just wasting your precious time.

          Hope this helps...

          Dave Wing
          Hi Dave. Could you elaborate on the resistive load test and baseline that you talked about on this post? I currently discharge my batt with a small inverter and light. Can I discharge the batt with resistors so how? Or how do I set up some LEDs with the correct resistors to do that?
          Thanks in advance!
          Conner

          Comment


          • Conner,

            A simple resistive load can be a NAPA 12 volt DC Auto marker bulb - they come in a variety of watts output. Attach to the battery and check the current with a DVM and let it rip for the discharge time period. Check this load voltage and current at regular intervals during discharge and write it down. At the end average the data for the time period and you should be very close to reality. No magic here for simple experiments...

            Use the KISS principle.

            Yaro
            Yaro

            "The Universe is under no obligation to make sense to you." -Neil Degrasse Tyson

            Comment


            • Gain Conditioning of Radiant Charged Batteries.

              Originally posted by Tom C View Post
              peter lindemann's battery lecture details what he and JB figured out load testing and cycling batteries. it will open your eyes! there ar enot many notes on this you cycle the battery till you get it back to new then you keep cyclying it till it goes up. the gains only come from constant use, charging till the charge curve hits its upper "knee" and never letting them rest. the gains dissapear within 48 hours.

              Tom C
              Hi Tom C,
              While it true that cycling the batteries and keep up with contious use of the batteries shows up the COP>1 gains. i have found that a pattern of Charging and Discharging the batteries in the due course of usage,can also be conditioned to allow a rest period maintain the gain mechanism in the event of a 'Storage phase' needed meaning letting them rest. a sequence of cold boiling the batteries and letting them rest and subjecting them to use and then charging again..doe show gain in them. How long is this rest period is unknow to me at this point.
              Best Regards,
              Faraday88.
              Last edited by Faraday88; 04-19-2018, 03:57 AM.
              'Wisdom comes from living out of the knowledge.'

              Comment


              • Originally posted by Richard
                What type of load did you use and what size battery?
                I understand that brushed motors work the best.
                When you cycled your batteries what was the cycling time period?
                Did you use a sensing circuit to switch the batteries after the battery under charge reached a certain voltage? Or the supply batteries to detect when they were low?
                Has anyone tried sensing the specific gravity of a lead acid battery to determine charge level such as a float with some photosensors?

                Thank you for any help.


                Richard Gieser
                Hi Richard,
                Thanks for your time..i have not carried out any of the above controls and sensing to determine.. i did them manually as to see what governed the effect of retaining and reevoking the Gain mechanism in the batteries.. i studied how they behaved ..
                Radiant Charging a battery after a long period of rest time behaves different from charging and discharging it in uniform periodicity. in other words, once you cold boil the (the plato of 15.43V) and then immediately subject it to you then charge it back to Cold-boiling plato (15.43V) and THEN rest it..(how long??) the next time you use the battery...it must be in the DISCHARGE MODE doing which you excite the swing (of Discharge/Charge Oscillation) to do this you 'Flash load discharge' something like a CCA mode of discharging (Starter battery type) for a couple of time may be.. for the next cylce of Fast Cold boiling it. I differ from what Tom C says that the gain will be lost under all circumstances.. it can be made to retain the Radiant affacted gain if you follow the above sequence of cycling the battery. the performance will be pronounced depanding on how well the given battery is conditioned to the Radiant mode of Charging it. the battery indeed seems to remember how it was charged no matter how long you wait the rest period!!
                and yes you are right Brushed DC motor work well as load to Radiant Charged battery..especially SSG mode charged..JB states this in one of the videos.
                Rgds,
                Faraday88.
                Last edited by Faraday88; 04-19-2018, 11:23 PM. Reason: correction.
                'Wisdom comes from living out of the knowledge.'

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