John K's Superpole Bike Wheel SSG

[Howard Wetsman]

They're good batteries and I've gotten good charging from them on a previous SS SSG. The only problem with that build was the coil got hot so I've built a new coil without a core to see if that helps. I really have to find a way to get 10 #18 AWG 150' 4 wire coils for my ten coiler.
thanks for your insight.
h

[fathershand]

John K., Thanks for all your hard work on this thread. I've being working on an SS version to get some experience with this technology. I also built an SSG using a bike wheel and other spare parts. It worked!

When I saw that you were using SLA instead of FLA, I was surprised. The reason was that I read one of your posts where you talk about using GOOD batteries. If I remember correctly, you didn't favor SLA batteries. Perhaps, you wrote that after this experience!

I am going to build this circuit as I get the funds. That will be soon. In the meantime, can you explain the following?

1) You are using "matched" transistors, diodes, etc. How does one get "matched" components?
2) When I wind my coil, I plan to put in one more winding to use for charging the primary. I noticed that you are thinking about using something other than relays for the dump. Can you show a schematic for the comparator circuit that you will be using to do the cap dump?
3) Since the SS version is so much simpler than using a wheel, do you favor using that type of charger instead of this type?

Thanks for all your time!
Tony

[James Milner]

I have just reduced my 5 filar #18 coil on my superpole from 150ft to 130ft as you said John K.
Where previously I could only charge up to 13.5v with effort, I can now charge at least up to 14.8V at this stage and i suspect it will get better as my USED batteries recover.
Thanks
James

[John_Koorn]

John K., Thanks for all your hard work on this thread. I've being working on an SS version to get some experience with this technology. I also built an SSG using a bike wheel and other spare parts. It worked!

When I saw that you were using SLA instead of FLA, I was surprised. The reason was that I read one of your posts where you talk about using GOOD batteries. If I remember correctly, you didn't favor SLA batteries. Perhaps, you wrote that after this experience!

I am going to build this circuit as I get the funds. That will be soon. In the meantime, can you explain the following?

1) You are using "matched" transistors, diodes, etc. How does one get "matched" components?
2) When I wind my coil, I plan to put in one more winding to use for charging the primary. I noticed that you are thinking about using something other than relays for the dump. Can you show a schematic for the comparator circuit that you will be using to do the cap dump?
3) Since the SS version is so much simpler than using a wheel, do you favor using that type of charger instead of this type?

Thanks for all your time!
Tony

Hi Tony, the SLA batteries I used were just for a test. I do favor flooded lead-acid batteries. In answer to your questions:

1) I match my transistors using the hFE function on my DMM. Diodes can be matched by using the diode test function a DMM.
2) When you say "one more winding to use for charging the primary" are you referring to a generator coil? If so, I recommend a mechanical commutator to back-pop the generator coil to the primary.
3) Depends what you want to do. Both the rotored version and the SS version have their pros and cons. Generally speaking, I've had better results with the rotored version.

John K.

[fathershand]

Thanks for sharing your experiences, John.

Yes, I was referring to a generator coil. Can you please give some specifics or schematic on how to build the mechanical commutator?

Based on your experience, what are the pros and cons of the SS version?

Thanks again.
Tony

[John_Koorn]

Thanks for sharing your experiences, John.

Yes, I was referring to a generator coil. Can you please give some specifics or schematic on how to build the mechanical commutator?

Based on your experience, what are the pros and cons of the SS version?

Thanks again.
Tony

Tony, when back-popping a generator coil you will be dealing with pulses of high voltage - in excess of 2000v. So you need a commutator that will be able to handle these spikes. You also need to time the pulse in between motor pulses so the best thing would be a split commutator like in John Bedini's 1984 book.

I don't have the tools to make on but I would go for a commutator with a brass segment and silver contacts, like you see in some of John's models.

I've spent more time on rotored SG machines than the SS version. The obvious pro of the SS version is that you don't need a well machined rotor with evenly spaced magnets and there is no noise, but then you don't have any mechanical energy. I have always had higher COP numbers with a rotored version, something about the magnetic interaction with the coil I guess.

Of course with a SS version there is no mechanical energy that can be used for a generator coil, which if done right with the rotored version can drastically extend the primary battery run time.

John K.

[fathershand]

Thanks John for your response. I sent you a PM.
Tony

[John_Koorn]

Thanks John for your response. I sent you a PM.
Tony

Hi Tony,

thanks, but I don't do private tuition. Please post you questions to the forum so everyone can benefit form the answers.

In my opinion everyone should buy the Bedini SG Complete Beginner's Handbook. Even seasoned experimenters. It's the best $27 you will spend.

John K.

[fathershand]

Thanks for your response, John. Does the 1984 book on Tom Bearden's site have the information about how to build the commutator you mentioned? What is the difference in that book and the "Bedini SG Complete Beginners Handbook"?

Have a great day!
Tony

[John_Koorn]

Thanks for your response, John. Does the 1984 book on Tom Bearden's site have the information about how to build the commutator you mentioned? What is the difference in that book and the "Bedini SG Complete Beginners Handbook"?

Have a great day!
Tony

Tony,

Yes, the book (Free Energy Generation - Circuits & Schematics by John Bedini and Tom Bearden) contains a re-release of John Bedini's original 1984 book, which contains the information needed to build the split commutator. It also contains many other SG related circuits and before the release of the Bedini SG Complete Beginners Handbook the FEG book was well regarded as "the book to have" if you wanted to research John Bedini's technology.

John K.

[fathershand]

I have also been reading John's patent here: Patent US7990110 - Circuits and related methods for charging a battery - Google Patents

It helped me to really get a better understanding of how the trigger works.

Thanks
Tony

[fathershand]

John K., I have a problem battery. Maybe you can help me.

This is a 20AH motorcycle battery from Walmart. I have been using it regularly for the past several years. About a month ago, I took it out of the motorcycle and noticed that one of the plates was a bit exposed. I topped it off and charged it with a joule ringer charger. The battery was sitting at 12.7V before the charge and 13.34 after the charge. After using the battery some more, I noticed that the voltage would drop down to 12.5V overnight. If I connect a regular 1A motorcycle battery charger to it, the voltage will rise to 14.2, but will fall back as stated. After charging with an SSG SG the voltage only rose to 13.34. Can you recommend a way to fully restore this battery?

Also, can you recommend a battery brand that is better? I was thinking about getting Interstate batteries. However, they are more expensive.

Thanks
Tony

[John_Koorn]

John K., I have a problem battery. Maybe you can help me.

This is a 20AH motorcycle battery from Walmart. I have been using it regularly for the past several years. About a month ago, I took it out of the motorcycle and noticed that one of the plates was a bit exposed. I topped it off and charged it with a joule ringer charger. The battery was sitting at 12.7V before the charge and 13.34 after the charge. After using the battery some more, I noticed that the voltage would drop down to 12.5V overnight. If I connect a regular 1A motorcycle battery charger to it, the voltage will rise to 14.2, but will fall back as stated. After charging with an SSG SG the voltage only rose to 13.34. Can you recommend a way to fully restore this battery?

Also, can you recommend a battery brand that is better? I was thinking about getting Interstate batteries. However, they are more expensive.

Thanks
Tony

Hi Tony, it sounds like either the battery is sulfated or one of the cells is partly shorted. If it is a partly shorted cell you could try emptying the acid, flushing it out with distilled water a few times and then putting the acid back in after filtering through some paper towel or a coffe pot filter. Take care if you do this and make sure you wear gloves and eye protection, safety first!

if it is sulfated you should charge it up with an SG to 16.2v and then discharge it at the C20 rate (1A) down to 12.0v and repeat until the capacity no longer increases. This may take 5 to 10 cycles, or maybe more.

being from Australia I'm not familiar with all the battery brands in the US, but generally you get what you pay for.

John K.

[fathershand]

John, I tested all the cells in the battery, and they were all about the same voltage. So, I assumed that the problem is sulfation. I discharged the battery at C20 down to 12V. I then connected it to my self-oscillating SSG. The battery is slowly coming up. The rate of charging is much slower now than before when I was charging it from 12.5 to 13.34.

I am thinking of building another SS SSG. What affect on the charging rate does using larger wire in the coils have? That is to say, if I used 24 AWG before and now I use 18 AWG, will the battery charge faster? Also, I assume that larger wired coils will allow for charging larger batteries.

Thanks for your help!
Tony

[fathershand]

John, please update your first post on this thread to include the core diameter of the spool.
Thanks
Tony