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Branch's NEW Solid State SG

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  • Branch's NEW Solid State SG

    I have a new board to show off! I haven't posted in awhile...I've been busy building.

    What Tom C has written here multiple times to various people kind of sunk in after awhile. Use the already free energy from the sun as your energy source. It has infinite COP. So that is my plan with this board. Hook it up to solar. Right now I am testing it out, making sure components are getting too hot and seeing how far I can push it.

    I received a massive amount of help from Bobzilla on this, so shout out to him for answering all 384 of my questions and guiding my through the process of putting this all together. I feel much more confident in my building skills now, and I'm happy to have a board that I created myself.

    Here's a video I just shot of it in action really for the first time tonight. Enjoy.


  • #2
    Dumb question, how much current you use for solid state?

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    • #3
      The amount of current you draw depends on how much resistance you apply, or "how you tune it". I can pull 130mA or I can pull 3 amps....just depends on the size of the battery I am charging.

      Right now I am pulling 130mA, and charging up a lawn/tractor battery.

      Originally posted by BEDINSSGUKRAINE View Post
      Dumb question, how much current you use for solid state?

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      • #4
        Nice one Branch! Making a solid state SG has been on my mind lately so I be following this with great interest.

        James

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        • #5
          Hey Branch, appreciate the shout out. I just gave you some advice but you built it bro,, can't wait to see some run data on it once you figure out how you like to tune it.

          Great work man!

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          • #6
            Circuit looks pretty cool.

            Wondering how you are getting the spikes to show up on the scope with your charge battery connected. When I put my scope across the charge battery while my ss sg is running I cant see the spikes. I can only see them when the charge battery is disconnected which I don't do for more then a second because my input current sky rockets when there is no load.

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            • #7
              I connect the lead to the rectified side of the collector, after the diode, and then the ground to the negative terminal on the battery.

              I actually had it hooked up wrong in the vid. I've been meaning to shoot another one as a correction.

              Originally posted by Joster View Post
              Circuit looks pretty cool.

              Wondering how you are getting the spikes to show up on the scope with your charge battery connected. When I put my scope across the charge battery while my ss sg is running I cant see the spikes. I can only see them when the charge battery is disconnected which I don't do for more then a second because my input current sky rockets when there is no load.

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              • #8
                Video update for my solid state SG. Charging up a 225AH Trojan this morning with around 300mA from a Harbor Freight 45-watt panel kit. Not sure if it will charge up completely...just testing to see what it will do.

                https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GzDLNrzFRNI

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                • #9
                  For anyone who watches the above video...I am thinking that if I increase the cap size...that it would bring down the running cap voltage....is that the right way to think about it? Because it would take longer to fill up...so for the same input current I could adjust the cap size to get the voltage closer to a 12V battery. Thinking of trying a 100,000uf cap...50V.

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                  • #10
                    the hysteresis in the core of the coil with the rods in slows it down. take the rods out and watch the change, it will cycle much faster. you should be switching in the Mhz range. it will charge better. you can tune it by moving rods in and out or changing the rod overall diameter.

                    Tom C


                    experimental Kits, chargers and solar trackers

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                    • #11
                      Yeah I have been meaning to take those out...it was on my rotor SG before. They are glued in so I'm gonna have to do a little hammering I think. I think I'll try and work on that tonight, so I can compare tomorrow.

                      I didn't realize they would be slowing the whole process down...so that is good info. Thanks man!

                      Originally posted by Tom C View Post
                      the hysteresis in the core of the coil with the rods in slows it down. take the rods out and watch the change, it will cycle much faster. you should be switching in the Mhz range. it will charge better. you can tune it by moving rods in and out or changing the rod overall diameter.

                      Tom C

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                      • #12
                        I took out the core last night and the machine runs very different this morning. Cap is under control now and I have less heat. Good stuff.

                        Originally posted by Tom C View Post
                        the hysteresis in the core of the coil with the rods in slows it down. take the rods out and watch the change, it will cycle much faster. you should be switching in the Mhz range. it will charge better. you can tune it by moving rods in and out or changing the rod overall diameter.

                        Tom C

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                        • #13
                          It's been mostly sunny today so I've had a chance to become more familiar with how this thing runs at full power. What I'm seeing is that I really have to ride the POT all day. What I mean is...this morning when the sun was just coming up, I raised the resistance to get the cap voltage up to around 12V. As the sun got higher in the sky, I had to lower the resistance otherwise the cap voltage got too high.

                          So as it's getting into late afternoon, my cap voltage is dropping to around 9V which isn't providing very good charging. So I start raising the resistance again to compensate.

                          So two questions: Is this the way to do it? Should I ride the POT, or should I just set it at the resistance that works for the most sunny part of the day and leave it there?
                          And question #2: Is there a way to have a POT that automatically adjusts itself based on a voltage reading from the POT?

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                          • #14
                            Bit of a hijack here sorry people but I have a question about Solid State SSG vs. rotor SSG... I will potentially have about 30 second hand 8V 170AH Trojan Golf cart batteries to attempt to rejuvenate for a 24V bank (potentially 1700AH). Because they are 8V this means using my SSG Radiant to rejuvenate them.

                            I am thinking of building another SSG to speed things up. After seeing Branch's build I'm wondering if I should go Solid State for my next build? 10.33v is what Trojan state as the "equalization" voltage or what we would call topping voltage (e.g. 15.3v for a 12v) I managed to push the first battery I'm rejuvenating to 9.54V and stopped as it was bubbling away quite a bit, so that could simply be it's as high as it can go until I cycle it a few more times... or it could be as high as my SSG can push it... I won't have answers to that for a while as it takes days to charge.

                            Anyway, What is typically better for rejuvenation, Solid State or Rotor? I figure if I build another rotor it will also give me another chance to try and get COP>1, but if a solid stage SSG is more practical for rejuvenation then maybe I build that instead, plus learn something new

                            Thanks

                            James

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                            • #15
                              I've been charting the past few days as my Trojan T-105 charges up from this panel and SSSG.

                              chart.jpg

                              You can see the first day was partly cloudy, as was today. Past two days were great. Pretty fun to watch, and I definitely get excited now about sunny days.

                              I have the resistance up so that it is only pulling 1.5 amps into the machine. Anything extra just pushes the cap voltage higher.

                              I would like to implement the mod that min2oly describes at 2:30 in this video

                              On this thread in the forum, John describes almost exactly the same setup as me: http://www.energyscienceforum.com/sh...?t=1801&page=3

                              And then min2oly responds with the circuit schematic. Has anyone else built this or had success with it? I am thinking of trying it.

                              Patrick's-CPD-Mod(1).jpg

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