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  • #16
    Hi everyone. I heard the ticking too. Mine would do that when a mag would break loose from the crazy glue. I was so impressed with how capable my big bike wheel was at battery restoration I spent most of my time doing that. This thread makes me want to go back and do some of the other things I only did with the 3PM. Shame it was sabotaged from the start. I got surprisingly good use from it especially afte building a heavier circuit for it. My big wheel is on loan to my brother and is happily fixing batteries at this very moment. What to do about this..... build another! I had the same noisy, wobbly problems with my big wheel. A new build will most certainly be on external bearings. Sure is nice watching your progress. I can't wait to see more! You have me thinking about the whole no diode thing again.
    Originally posted by min2oly View Post
    Someone reminded me in a reply on one of the vids - I forgot to use a bulb in series for tuning, that might have saved the pot. It's been a while since I used a big wheel - forgot how powerful it is. No worries, that was a cheepo pot. I'm saving the big 50w 75ohm for the

    TESLAGENX

    build. Just purchased the base resistors yesterday will be soldering the board some time today. I still don't have the wheel situation straightened out... This was always my biggest issue when I built the first wheel, it never ran smooth always noisy and wabley etc... I'm almost there, maybe I should just build my own wheel, my 6' wheel purr's right along. I think it's too big for this little coil though.

    Comment


    • #17
      yes, I'm all for "build another" :-)

      I'm about ready to toss this one out. I just figured out it's not the axle anymore. the axle was bent, now it's straight. what's bent now are the bike wheel's inner bearing "cages" (?) I don't know what that thing is called. So they are not allowing the axle to center on the wheel. What a pain! I'm about ready to through this one out as well. who knows, maybe it's a combination of the axle, bearing cage, and the wheel itself.

      vid is still being processed, it'll finish soon, I gatta go...


      I'm seriously contemplating building my own wheel out of wood later today.
      The main reason I don't is JB has recommended this steel metal wheel, and I was hoping to keep the build accountable to the book specs.

      The saga continues...



      Originally posted by Allen R. View Post
      Hi everyone. I heard the ticking too. Mine would do that when a mag would break loose from the crazy glue. I was so impressed with how capable my big bike wheel was at battery restoration I spent most of my time doing that. This thread makes me want to go back and do some of the other things I only did with the 3PM. Shame it was sabotaged from the start. I got surprisingly good use from it especially afte building a heavier circuit for it. My big wheel is on loan to my brother and is happily fixing batteries at this very moment. What to do about this..... build another! I had the same noisy, wobbly problems with my big wheel. A new build will most certainly be on external bearings. Sure is nice watching your progress. I can't wait to see more! You have me thinking about the whole no diode thing again.

      Comment


      • #18
        Copy+(1).jpg
        if not to late get a wheel with roller bearings great spin time if you use the bearings that come with wheel a thought //not the cone type you have/go to a bike shop spin boath type big differance
        guy
        Last edited by guyzzemf; 05-13-2014, 02:15 PM.

        Comment


        • #19
          That looks nice, did you get them at your local bike shop?
          watching your vids always made me wonder how you got them to spin so nicely...
          Patrick

          Originally posted by guyzzemf View Post
          [ATTACH=CONFIG]3439[/ATTACH]
          if not to late get a wheel with roller bearings great spin time if you use the bearings that come with wheel a thought //not the cone type you have/go to a bike shop spin boath type big differance
          guy

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          • #20
            Here is the board:



            Thanks for the tips, keep'm coming.

            Kind Regards all,
            Patrick A.

            Comment


            • #21
              pat
              yes and not much more $

              Comment


              • #22
                Guy,
                I'll give that a try if I'm not able to make something work from stuff I have laying around. Here's the Teslagenx coil in action w/ my breadboarded ckt and a 50watt pot:



                The 4 windings draw about 300mA on this wheel. It's going to be cool to see how that changes vs the output as I switch in each transistor on the 8T green board...

                This might be my last vid until I get the wheel situation straightened out...
                Kind Regards,
                Patrick A.


                Originally posted by guyzzemf View Post
                pat
                yes and not much more $

                Comment


                • #23
                  Hi Patrick. I dont want to be to forward here but you really need to re-solder that board and use some soldering paste. I don't want to see you fry anything. I can tell you 100% those are cold solder joints and will give you trouble. Go get some tinning flux and re touch each one. The solder in the video is just sitting dabbed on. It didn't flow. I appreciate your work and I don't want to see it destroyed.

                  al

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Hi Allen,
                    Not forward at all, this is my first time soldering a board it's much smaller than a 1/2" copper pipe that I'm use to :-) Thanks for the advise.

                    Just so I know what I'm looking for when I fix it... can you provide more of a description of what it is you see?

                    I really thought I saw each one of those hole plates and resistor/diode/transistor legs change color and suck in/spread the solder. A couple of the switches are definitely questionable, but that would only stop the T from firing. Those little switches were a pain. I'll redo those. Thanks for your help.
                    Sincerely,
                    Patrick A.


                    Originally posted by Allen R. View Post
                    Hi Patrick. I dont want to be to forward here but you really need to re-solder that board and use some soldering paste. I don't want to see you fry anything. I can tell you 100% those are cold solder joints and will give you trouble. Go get some tinning flux and re touch each one. The solder in the video is just sitting dabbed on. It didn't flow. I appreciate your work and I don't want to see it destroyed.

                    al

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Hi Patrick. At 20 seconds into video 7 the closeup of the transistor solder joints. I can see the solder is ont the pins of the transistors in a ball shape. The circuit board pads hardly make contact with the solder at all. The a good solder joint should flow onto the boards pad and make a cone shape up on the pins. In other words the transistor pins may be soldered but the circuit board soldering pads where the connection between the two are made is not. A good solid solder joint through the board should make a nice cone shape and cover the entire pad. Hope that helps. Maybe someone else will look at it and confirm what I am seeing.

                      al

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Hi Allen,
                        I see it now. I should have been looking through a magnifying glass when I did this instead of relying on the color change simple solder spread. I'll go back and give each connection the cone. This gives me a good excuse to buy another toy. I've always wanted one of those solder vacuums :-)

                        Allen - Big thanks!

                        Please feel free to chime in, anyone, w/ ideas or changes you feel I should make to this build as I go. I'm confident I can tune this to perfection even with a bad build, however, I'd much rather have a nice solid one.

                        FYI I've completed 2 runs on the Toyota battery w/ only 4 winds of the Teslagenx coil w/ my breadboarded mje's wobbly wheel and all, it's already 1/1 and I haven't even started the tuning process.
                        Kind Regards,
                        Patrick


                        Originally posted by Allen R. View Post
                        Hi Patrick. At 20 seconds into video 7 the closeup of the transistor solder joints. I can see the solder is ont the pins of the transistors in a ball shape. The circuit board pads hardly make contact with the solder at all. The a good solder joint should flow onto the boards pad and make a cone shape up on the pins. In other words the transistor pins may be soldered but the circuit board soldering pads where the connection between the two are made is not. A good solid solder joint through the board should make a nice cone shape and cover the entire pad. Hope that helps. Maybe someone else will look at it and confirm what I am seeing.

                        al

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Hi Patrick. You are very welcome.

                          After seeing the hub wobble on yours I had to go lay hands on the extra 26 inch wheel I have been saving to make sure it didn't do that too.

                          Are the transistors on the breadboard matched? I know the Teslagenx board comes with matched parts.

                          I'm particularly interested in seeing your Teslagenx board build. I plan on building one as well. I have done so many car batteries with my wheel I can only imagine how well a nice eight circuit build will do. For some reason I always come back to a wheel when it comes to desulphating. I cannot seem to achieve the same results with a solid state. That may just be my fault though.

                          1:1 early on is a good sign. With the tweaks and tuning it will be far down the rabbit hole

                          al
                          Last edited by Allen R.; 05-15-2014, 02:51 PM.

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Hi Allen,
                            The MJE's are like a buck each so I purchased 100 a while back. I was able to match a few groups out of those. Yes, these 4 are matched. the resisters are not though. Perhaps saying that it's not tuned is a bit unfair. I can tune this thing in my sleep. I just have not put it on the scope, I have not monitored the revs/amp draw etc... When I'm putting that coil on, however, and when I'm turning that pot it does come w/ a little experience. That being said, I do have a long way to go here. I'm not interested in tuning this breadboard build. I just had to run the coil through it's paces down and dirty since I'm waiting on a wheel... I had some time today and was able to make some headway on my wood disk idea...
                            Thanks again,
                            Patrick
                            Originally posted by Allen R. View Post
                            Hi Patrick. You are very welcome.

                            After seeing the hub wobble on yours I had to go lay hands on the extra 26 inch wheel I have been saving to make sure it didn't do that too.

                            Are the transistors on the breadboard matched? I know the Teslagenx board comes with matched parts.

                            I'm particularly interested in seeing your Teslagenx board build. I plan on building one as well. I have done so many car batteries with my wheel I can only imagine how well a nice eight circuit build will do. For some reason I always come back to a wheel when it comes to desulphating. I cannot seem to achieve the same results with a solid state. That may just be my fault though.

                            1:1 early on is a good sign. With the tweaks and tuning it will be far down the rabbit hole

                            al

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              "...For some reason I always come back to a wheel when it comes to desulphating. I cannot seem to achieve the same results with a solid state..."
                              Hi Allen,
                              That is an interesting comment. Any idea why that is? The only difference for the coil is that in a solid state circuit the frequency of interruption happens more often. Would you be able to achieve the same result if your solid state is tune such as the triggering is close to the frequency of your wheel? Does that make any sense to you?
                              Please pm me if you have a comment/answer, I think it's impolite to highjack Patrick's thread

                              Thanks,
                              NoFear.

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                No worries NoFear,
                                it's all in the scope of things here. The first thought that pops into my head is the solid state lacks the mag amp effect. I can charge very fast w/ solid state, don't get me wrong. My solid state builds are very strong. I believe the magamp effect we get from the wheel is what helps to "knock" that sulfation off... It's the same reason I stated earlier "I forgot how powerful the wheel is". Solid state would have never burned my pot like that.
                                I welcome all thoughts on this.

                                Good question and good observation.
                                Kind Regards,
                                Patrick A.

                                Originally posted by Nofear View Post
                                "...For some reason I always come back to a wheel when it comes to desulphating. I cannot seem to achieve the same results with a solid state..."
                                Hi Allen,
                                That is an interesting comment. Any idea why that is? The only difference for the coil is that in a solid state circuit the frequency of interruption happens more often. Would you be able to achieve the same result if your solid state is tune such as the triggering is close to the frequency of your wheel? Does that make any sense to you?
                                Please pm me if you have a comment/answer, I think it's impolite to highjack Patrick's thread

                                Thanks,
                                NoFear.

                                Comment

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