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  • reviews
    replied
    I'll watch it tonight after work.
    I do want to try a video of the setup working.

    Leave a comment:


  • Brian McNece
    replied
    Originally posted by BobZilla View Post
    Hi Brian,
    What you need to do is first get just one meter charting. Do not plug the second meter in until the first is already setup and making charts. Once that first one is going fine then plug in the second one and click the program icon to start it again.

    Note that I have the USB version of the meter. The originals came with RS-232 instead which is the 9 pin old style and it may not work the same with those. Also if you do have the USB version try to pick USB ports that are not on the same bus. I have found over the years that sometimes this matterrs and sometimes not depending on the PC I am using. What I mean is say you have a free port either one right below/beside the one already running the other meter or one all the way on the other side of the machine, choose the one on the other side of the machine. It has to do with the way the program allocates the memory.
    Thanks Bob

    Leave a comment:


  • BobZilla
    replied
    Originally posted by Brian McNece View Post
    Bob
    I've noticed on your videos you use the radio shack meters. It appears you have two of them on one computer. How did you get the software to install twice? I've tried to install the software twice, but it seems to only want to deal with the first installation. Any tips?
    Hi Brian,
    What you need to do is first get just one meter charting. Do not plug the second meter in until the first is already setup and making charts. Once that first one is going fine then plug in the second one and click the program icon to start it again.

    Note that I have the USB version of the meter. The originals came with RS-232 instead which is the 9 pin old style and it may not work the same with those. Also if you do have the USB version try to pick USB ports that are not on the same bus. I have found over the years that sometimes this matterrs and sometimes not depending on the PC I am using. What I mean is say you have a free port either one right below/beside the one already running the other meter or one all the way on the other side of the machine, choose the one on the other side of the machine. It has to do with the way the program allocates the memory.
    Last edited by BobZilla; 05-23-2017, 06:43 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Brian McNece
    replied
    Bob
    I've noticed on your videos you use the radio shack meters. It appears you have two of them on one computer. How did you get the software to install twice? I've tried to install the software twice, but it seems to only want to deal with the first installation. Any tips?

    Leave a comment:


  • Brian McNece
    replied
    Bob
    I took your advice and started a new thread, it is located here:

    http://www.energyscienceforum.com/sh...6754#post26754

    hopefully that will work, if not it is in the intermediate forum where this thread is and it is called "My solid state adventure"
    I have posted the video of my first cap dumper run in the first post, feel free to comment.
    Thanks again for your continued help.
    I am looking forward to much more experimenting with this stuff.

    Leave a comment:


  • Brian McNece
    replied
    Originally posted by BobZilla View Post
    That chart looks pretty good to me Brian, nice work. Can't wait to see your video too.

    I don't mind if you post whatever you like in this thread, it was dead for along time and hasn't been about what it started as for along time either ;-) but you might want to start one for your project since it is new content instead of it getting buried in this old thread. That way people don't have to sort out who was saying what about this and that, old threads get confusing. Now that you have a setup similar to what I was doing awhile back I can show you some neat stuff to test out with different timings.
    Looking forward to it.

    Leave a comment:


  • BobZilla
    replied
    Originally posted by Brian McNece View Post
    Bob & all
    I got the cap dumper finished tonight, it consists of 2 470 uf and 4 4700 uf capacitors ( all 100 volt), 4 switches, a solid state relay, and an arduino. It is basically configured like the one Bob showed earlier in the thread. Thanks Bob.
    The picture is of my test run, making sure it works.

    [ATTACH=CONFIG]6253[/ATTACH]


    The big drops are when i changed the off time, the smaller down spikes are when i would take a capacitor out of the mix.
    I did take some videos which i will put together and post.
    Overall, I am very pleased, it needs some tuning but that just involves some time.
    The battery started at 12.54 and stopped at 13.34 in about a 2 hour test run.

    Edit: Bob, would you prefer i start a new thread for reporting my findings (replications of what you have shared in this thread)?
    That chart looks pretty good to me Brian, nice work. Can't wait to see your video too.

    I don't mind if you post whatever you like in this thread, it was dead for along time and hasn't been about what it started as for along time either ;-) but you might want to start one for your project since it is new content instead of it getting buried in this old thread. That way people don't have to sort out who was saying what about this and that, old threads get confusing. Now that you have a setup similar to what I was doing awhile back I can show you some neat stuff to test out with different timings.

    Leave a comment:


  • Brian McNece
    replied
    Bob & all
    I got the cap dumper finished tonight, it consists of 2 470 uf and 4 4700 uf capacitors ( all 100 volt), 4 switches, a solid state relay, and an arduino. It is basically configured like the one Bob showed earlier in the thread. Thanks Bob.
    The picture is of my test run, making sure it works.

    image.jpg

    The big drops are when i changed the off time, the smaller down spikes are when i would take a capacitor out of the mix.
    I did take some videos which i will put together and post.
    Overall, I am very pleased, it needs some tuning but that just involves some time.
    The battery started at 12.54 and stopped at 13.34 in about a 2 hour test run.

    Edit: Bob, would you prefer i start a new thread for reporting my findings (replications of what you have shared in this thread)?
    Last edited by Brian McNece; 05-14-2017, 07:55 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Faraday88
    replied
    Originally posted by BobZilla View Post
    Hey guys I would just add that there is a third scenario to mention and that is common ground or "gen mode".

    I don't think Mr. Bedini ever said one way or the other on this but from my experience you can also take a back battery from a common ground charge and move it to the front without any degradation.
    Hi Bob,
    This is true if you use the 1984 topology with two battery system and using a brushed DC motor but not the SSG circuit this method is described in the advance SG book.
    Rgds,
    Faraday88.

    Leave a comment:


  • BobZilla
    replied
    Hey guys I would just add that there is a third scenario to mention and that is common ground or "gen mode".

    I don't think Mr. Bedini ever said one way or the other on this but from my experience you can also take a back battery from a common ground charge and move it to the front without any degradation.

    Leave a comment:


  • Brian McNece
    replied
    Originally posted by John_Koorn View Post
    Hi Brian,

    Straight SS SG output - no battery swapping front to back
    Cap dump (any type of SG) - battery swapping OK

    John K.
    Thanks John

    Leave a comment:


  • John_Koorn
    replied
    Hi Brian,

    Straight SS SG output - no battery swapping front to back
    Cap dump (any type of SG) - battery swapping OK

    John K.

    Leave a comment:


  • Brian McNece
    replied
    Bob
    Quick question, the solid state and cap dump you have been sharing about, would you be able to switch primary and charge batteries back and forth without harm, if you wanted to. I know john B didn't recommend it with the sg, I wasn't sure about the solid state version, or the cap dump.

    Leave a comment:


  • Brian McNece
    replied
    Originally posted by BobZilla View Post
    Brian that's great man, thanks for sharing!

    One thing I notice is on your charge negative you look like you are doing a common ground setup right? Typically I will put a diode between the chg neg and Pri neg if i'm doing common ground. What I actually do is put a double throw switch there so that I can switch from mode one to common ground quite easily

    All you need to do that is get a double throw switch ok, run the charge neg line from your terminal block into the MIDDLE pole of the switch. Now take the top pole of the switch and run an extension over to the chg pos. Run another extension from the bottom pole over to a diode (black side) then from the top side (stripe) to the Pri neg. When you want to run mode one flip the switch up, common ground put it down.


    (Response) good observation, i had it that way because of your video, after you mentioned it i looked and i actually have my + and - reversed from your video, i must have done that when i drew it out. Patrick made a suggestion on a you tube comment about just making another setup instead of changing anything on this one to see if I can replicate the results. I think i am going to try that before doing anything to change my current setup.


    Anyway that's great work you have already, I am just suggesting an addition that I run on mine. One reason you would want to do it is because in common ground you really can only have two batteries of the same voltage because of the common ground (otherwise the higher voltage will force itself on to the smaller voltage with a lot of current). If you want to work with dis-similar voltages you can use mode one say like having 24 on one side and 12 on the other or whatever. It is also just worth studying the effects of each way.



    I like your back pop setup but you should be aware that that usually results in messing up the primary. Mr. Bedini did this in his early machines but later said not to do it because the constant chg/discharge action destroys the battery. He said it was better just to take the energy and put it to another battery charging it only and not taking a load at the same time. With that said I still see people running similar concepts like the 3 batt tesla switch for example. I don't know but it's worth mentioning.
    The back pop idea was a sort of a test to see what would happen, i have a large 10 farad capacitor that i would like to see if i can get this to run off of at some point in time.
    When I build the next setup I am going to put the switch in place, i just wanted to see it work, i really got a littlle frustrated with the other relays. On a side note, i checked the voltage on my primary this morning before heading to work and it was at 12.78v, i checked again this afternoon upon getting home and it was still 12.78v. I am glad you shared this info Bob, this setup charged the battery in less than 2 hours, my wheeled ssg draws about 145ma and it take probably 12-20 hrs to charge it up like that. I am excited to see what it can do on larger batteries.
    As i am typing i am thinking about your response and i am wondering if maybe the charge battery was pushing back on the primary. Something worth more testing.
    One other thing i wanted to mention is the amp draw went down when putting the core in the coil.

    Leave a comment:


  • BobZilla
    replied
    Originally posted by Brian McNece View Post
    Here is a video of my "replication" i need to tidy it up but at this point i am just pleased to have it working. It took about 1 1/2 hrs to charge from 12.54v to 15.48v. Both batteries are 2.9 ah the one with bedini on top was conditioned with an energizer that my son and i built for his science fair project years ago, it normally rests around 13v. Tonight when i started it was at 12.78, when the switch was turned on it dropped to 12.46 and stayed there the whole time, occasionally bouncing to 12.47. When the run was finished it returned to 12.73 within 15 minutes.


    Brian that's great man, thanks for sharing!

    One thing I notice is on your charge negative you look like you are doing a common ground setup right? Typically I will put a diode between the chg neg and Pri neg if i'm doing common ground. What I actually do is put a double throw switch there so that I can switch from mode one to common ground quite easily.

    All you need to do that is get a double throw switch ok, run the charge neg line from your terminal block into the MIDDLE pole of the switch. Now take the top pole of the switch and run an extension over to the chg pos. Run another extension from the bottom pole over to a diode (black side) then from the top side (stripe) to the Pri neg. When you want to run mode one flip the switch up, common ground put it down.

    Anyway that's great work you have already, I am just suggesting an addition that I run on mine. One reason you would want to do it is because in common ground you really can only have two batteries of the same voltage because of the common ground (otherwise the higher voltage will force itself on to the smaller voltage with a lot of current). If you want to work with dis-similar voltages you can use mode one say like having 24 on one side and 12 on the other or whatever. It is also just worth studying the effects of each way.

    I like your back pop setup but you should be aware that that usually results in messing up the primary. Mr. Bedini did this in his early machines but later said not to do it because the constant chg/discharge action destroys the battery. He said it was better just to take the energy and put it to another battery charging it only and not taking a load at the same time. With that said I still see people running similar concepts like the 3 batt tesla switch for example. I don't know but it's worth mentioning.
    Last edited by BobZilla; 05-02-2017, 07:05 AM.

    Leave a comment:

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