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Bedini SG Monopole with Capacitor Discharge

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  • #46
    Hi John & Mostie

    I have replaced both the SCR and the 2N3584
    The strange thing I've noticed is that it's dumping at 32v and it drops down to 29v then back up to 32.6v on 2 pulses, and will not do that on 1 pulse, i am using a timing light to see this with 1 pulse it sits around 45v and stays,
    i didn't noticed this yesterday, after being in the back of my mind for most of the day so when i got a chance today i tried different things to find out why.
    I've got a 27" wheel with 18 magnets.
    Current draw 240ma

    When i used the same wheel on the sg circuit, I got my best charging on 2 pulses, strange!..., i have a 17" rim i think it might be time for a change!..( just thinking out allowed)

    George N.


    • #47
      George, what are you using to measure your cap voltage with? Are you using a scope to monitor the cap voltage?

      John K.


      • #48
        Hi John

        Unfortunately i don't have a scope at the moment, I'm using a $40.Digitech multimeter.

        George N.


        • #49
          Hi John K

          I have discovered that i had the H11D1 the wrong way around, dam" now that i have corrected it, the neon that i have put across the collector and the emitter of the BD243Cis coming on now!..

          George N.


          • #50
            Hey George,

            If its easily transported and you're free next thursday bring it over and we can go over it.




            • #51
              Hi Ren

              Sounds like a plan!..., I'm still not going to give up trying to figure out what the hill I'm doing wrong, just a quick question N0:6 on the 555 what is the go with that?,is the 6 & 2 suppose to connected.
              PS, i will send you my ph. privately.



              • #52
                yup, connect the 6th pin to the 2nd pin. If you want to make it easy, use a little cradle, so you dont damage your 555 from overheating.


                • #53
                  Hello everyone
                  Is there a replacement for H11D1 in europe they ask 25 Euro to deliver.


                  • #54
                    its only an optocpoupler, look at the specs of the H11D1,
                    and find similars,

                    try these

                    optocoupler 4N25, input 1,1V max 1,5V, CE 30V
                    - 4N 25 - OPTOKOPPLER bei reichelt elektronik
                    - 0,25 euro

                    SFH 615A-3 :: Optokoppler, Hersteller OSRAM Optoelectronic ERSATZ für H11D1
                    - SFH 615A-3 - Optokoppler, Hersteller OSRAM Optoelectronic bei reichelt elektronik
                    - 0,29 euro
                    - CTR 100 - 200 %, DIP-4
                    - input: 1,25-1,65V 60mA
                    - CEO 7,0V, 50mA

                    in my arduino cap dump..arduino steers the optocoupler SFH 615A-3

                    where are you from? europe? country?


                    • #55
                      MrRonsen thanks for replay
                      I am from Niederlande [Holland]

                      What is important
                      Collector Current = 100mA
                      Emitter to Collector Voltage = 7v
                      Collector Emitter Voltage = 300v

                      DC forward current = 60mA
                      Emitter to collector voltage = 7v
                      Collector Emitter Voltage = 70v
                      Last edited by Ed_Morbus; 05-25-2013, 06:59 AM.


                      • #56
                        collector to emitter voltage.. is on the side
                        where you have your 7812 voltage regulator 12V!
                        so need no 300V collector emitter voltage.. 70V are enough..
                        D11H1 -input: DC forward current 60mA - same like SFH615A
                        D11H1 -output: DC collector current 100mA - the SFH615A has 50mA..

                        for me it works

                        SFH615A :
                        D11H1 :

                        other answers out there?


                        • #57
                          MrRonsen Thanks.


                          • #58
                            Hi Ren

                            Did that and i still have my neon lighting up it's hooked up across the C&E I have loaded some photos2013-05-26 10.29.35.jpg2013-05-26 10.26.42.jpg2013-05-26 10.32.49.jpg2013-05-26 10.38.53.jpg2013-05-26 10.40.59.jpg


                            • #59
                              Hi George,

                              Time to solder your circuit up methinks. Usually if the neon lights up there is a problem with the output path, i.e. there is no battery connected or in this case, no capacitor. You seem to have the cap and bridge on your prototype board but I would review the connections of that area. Happy to give you a hand to solder up something more permanent and get rid of all the excess lengths which dont help much. But basically, if your cap is filling nicely you should be alright.

                              What happens if you remove the capacitor and connect a battery straight to the terminals of the bridge? Does that stop the neon?



                              • #60
                                Ok I've got it working, I've changed the 2N3584 with a MJE3055T everything seems to be running cool, I've also replaced the 51K with a 360K, whenever I used the 3.3uF 450v the neon comes on, so I put a 2200uF 10v in parallel and it stopped that from happening.

                                I am keen to see if I can get two for one, I am using a 7.2ah on the front and a 7.2ah & a 5ah on the back-end, they all are slabs.
                                Can anyone tell me what would be necessary for me to charge a 130ah and more.

                                George N.