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Tesla Switch

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  • #31
    Aram ;

    I am from Bosnia and Herzegovina, and I am very interest for making any SSG . My question is , Can You send to me any sheme who 100 % working properly. I am sure that will work very good .

    Regards

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    • #32
      Originally posted by John_Koorn View Post
      Here is John Bedini's version of the circuit using opto-couplers:
      [ATTACH=CONFIG]532[/ATTACH]
      John K.
      Hi John,
      I have made the John Bedini 'Radio Interview One-Battery + Two Capacitors Tesla Switch' using SG3524 to H11D1 to DB243 to two paralleled IRPF250's x3 locations . It is soldered on prototyping board 2 x 3 " wired pad to pad with good Gnd and power distribution. I get 10 uS t-rise & t-fall from 3524, but 30X that for t-fall at about 0.3mS out of H11D1 & BD243 to the FET's, with usual 220 Ohms to Gates and 10K to Gnd so they won't stick on. Not from over-driven LED inside H11D1. My SG3524 is using 330 Ohm R-collector resistors.

      I was looking hard in the Forum for a solution to the slow turn-off, then I saw this video here at 5:01 of 9:50 it says that the Darlington configuration needs R2 (between Q1 Emitter and Q2 Base "...so that it can turn Off the second transistor really fast". -->https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=COsIn3vFUyY Interfacing Microcontrollers: Darlington Transistors. The H11D1 to BD243 is Darlington-like, in a photo kind of way,and the turn off speed is terrible. Back EMF is muted this way.

      Now I see your post #6 here in TESLA SWITCH, of JB's use with MJL21194's Vs. IRFP250's like the Op-Amp Cap Dump uses. How does the Diode and Cap in parallel improve operation while I wait for parts to try this? Can the Darlington-style resistors even be used with an Opto-driven Q1?

      With nothing between H11D1 and BD243, the maybe too high Gain seems to amplify the lower regions where turn-off is very slopey, making the effect much worse at the BD243's Emitter. It seems if the BD243 was just biased to just peak above the FET Threshold Voltage, things would be better.

      I read all over Matthew Jones postings excerpts circa ~ 2007 at Tuks, wishing luck to solid state people, and that only his mechanical switching works for him, Benitz-style I read him saying, via hard Cap Slapping or some such. I made a separate SG3524 and left the FET's off with exit terminals for the BD243's to drive another small 20A Relay Card. I just wanted to make it to get real fast mechanical switching tried, knowing it eats relays like candy, but I have to Rotor, no car-hole, no garage, no real space like most would have. Just my desk with small batteries MJ hates, and room for some BIG batteries. Thank you in advance for your advice.

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      • #33
        Why "These" Transistors That Turn Off So Slow? MJL21194 & DB243 for SG / Tesla Switch

        Hi John,

        Regarding your Post #6 here in Tesla Switch of John Bedini's circuit for the single battery + 2 Cap's unit; see attached scope shots. These tranis are not great, either one, driven this way. Am I wrong? Please reply.

        I tested JB's circuit and found the only thing the Cap between Darlington oriented H11D1 internal Trani & either MJL21194 or BD243 is to de-couple waves off the Gnd, coming from the fluorescent desk light above my circuit. The diode does nothing either. So why would John Bedini himself put this 'stuff' out there? He is not even the ones selling books, so I cannot understand. I tried ~20Hz & 236Hz with 45% down to ~ 5% duty-cycle. The reason for the slow turn-off is the transistors being driven with the H11D1. The H11D1 can drive a resistor just fine, and that is about all. Not suited for BEMF applications. Am I wrong?

        Please save me some time with all your experience doing these things. After a year running Mono-SG's, SS & rotored, I never once looked at these two trani types driving just a resistor Vs. a highly capacitive trani like either of these. How can this be? I wrote Tom Childs a while back and remarked how the 1N4007 Diodes conduct in reverse above 17 KHz, and so were not suitable for solid state operation above the annoying audible frequencies. Now I am churning inside having just purchased and carefully matched 130 MJL21194's, and now I am wondering if this is another TPU Rabbit Hole? Why would a BEMF system mute the critical turn-off by using these devices arranged in "This" way?

        Am I going to have to go buy 130 MJL21193 PNP's to force the MJL21194's to shut-off fast to actually really charge both batteries? Is that the BIG secret I must buy 17 books to learn? I would rather die.

        John Bedini says in a past conference video speaking about how his 10-Coiler charges both stating "The problem is, everyone wants to change it". . . OK, so maybe the slow diodes and slow trani's must be used so that they will be slow enough to leak some radiant in before pinching off, as in Peter's Plasma Ignition explanation? But this is the Tesla Switch, where mechanically "Fast" turn-off is 10X more important than fast turn-on. Double-Diddilly-Doh! :-(

        I read John Bedini telling someone how critical it was to be sure to use "Exact 50% duty-cycle", yet Matthew Jones stating "Off-time is required to get the effect", and "I use less than 50% duty-cycle so the Caps do not short out. I tried and yes 50% DC not only shorts the Caps together instead of to battery, the Turn-Off Time of the H11D1 virtually guarantees shorted Caps if 50% were really used in a Tesla Switch.

        Has anyone ever made solid state switching fast enough to work for a Tesla Switch? Is this why the Cigar Box NiCad & Relays unit used relays, because if so, I have been working on a Ring-Counter-Gattling-Relay scheme to enable higher frequency operation.


        Originally posted by John_Koorn View Post
        Here is John Bedini's version of the circuit using opto-couplers:
        [ATTACH=CONFIG]532[/ATTACH]
        John K.
        Attached Files

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        • #34
          Just checked the energyfromthevacuum site I can't believe my eyes. Quietly a new DVD appeared ;-)

          http://energyfromthevacuum.com/Disc3...slaSwitch.html


          Lman

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          • #35
            Lman thanx for the heads up.....i ordered a copy at 10 pm here this evening and got an email back half an hour later saying it had been shipped dont know whats giong on there but just thought id let u know cheers

            Comment


            • #36
              I have also been building some telsa switches too.





              After watching the new DVD part 38 "The Bedini Tesla Switch" I have been using the wrong diodes and the wrong opto-isolators. The diode I was using was UF5408 and need to use SB570 diodes. Also the battery holders add unwanted impedance's, need to solder the wires on the batteries without destroying them.

              Also John wants us to use the H11D1 opto-isolators and I have been using the H11G1 opto-isolators. Big difference between them.



              I very highly recommend you buy this DVD part 38 "The Bedini Tesla Switch" I very enjoyed watching it. John Bedini's electronics tutorial is very very good.

              Thankyou John Bedini for your most excellent DVD

              Comment


              • #37
                https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hgP5tWIEosg
                Been switching over a month
                all batteries originally pulse charged to 14.7

                Comment


                • #38
                  Hi Jeffrey

                  Have they been gaining in level of charge? Maintaining? Dropping?

                  You may be interested in what we are doing over here:

                  http://www.energyscienceforum.com/showthread.php?t=3243

                  Please keep us informed.

                  James, somewhere in Idaho
                  Best Regards ~ James, Somewhere In Idaho

                  Comment


                  • #39
                    Batteries 1 and 2 drop very slowly while battery 3 stays the same and battery 4 goes up.
                    Splitting the negative terminals on battery 1 and battery 4 and using 1n4007 diodes to the load.
                    Next I will try splitting the negatives on the negative side, batteries 3 and 4 with diodes to the load.
                    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SAXVMaWSXS0
                    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FfUKN9ABJ0U
                    more data
                    Last edited by Jeffrey Joseph; 11-06-2015, 01:19 AM. Reason: time going by

                    Comment


                    • #40
                      Hi Jeffery

                      Do you rotate the batteries, as per JB's diagram?

                      James, somewhere in Idaho
                      Best Regards ~ James, Somewhere In Idaho

                      Comment


                      • #41
                        Batteries 1 and 2 drop very slowly while battery 3 stays the same and battery 4 goes up.
                        Splitting the negative terminals on battery 1 and battery 4 and using 1n4007 diodes to the load.
                        Next I will try splitting the negatives on the negative side, batteries 3 and 4 with diodes to the load.
                        https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SAXVMaWSXS0
                        https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FfUKN9ABJ0U
                        more data
                        I have been splitting the neg. terminals between battery 1 and 4
                        than I switch to neg terminals of battery 2 and 4; 1 goes down 2 goes up 3 goes up 4 goes down
                        than I switch the load leads and battery 1 goes down 2goes down 3goes up 4 goes up
                        so switching the leads to negative terminals around gets different battery charging results.
                        also I have been running a load; small motor and light and other things to see what happens so a slow discharge is expected.
                        I did notice when you use amp meter (don't leave it in after adjusting) on load and adjust the switch timing you can see a point where no current draws but the motor and light still run.
                        another thing the leds don't need to be 12v. 12v leds take too much energy. The leds can change colors depending on where you power you load from.

                        next I am going to run it with no load and see if the batteries will charge back up
                        happiness and joy


                        Last edited by Jeffrey Joseph; Today at 12:19 AM. Reason: time going by
                        Last edited by Jeffrey Joseph; 11-20-2015, 01:12 AM.

                        Comment


                        • #42
                          Thanks John I'll Try this Happiness and joy Jeff

                          Comment


                          • #43
                            Originally posted by John_Koorn View Post
                            Here is John Bedini's version of the circuit using opto-couplers:
                            [ATTACH=CONFIG]532[/ATTACH]
                            John K.
                            ' Pulse Charging a Battery and driving other devices with a Pulse'
                            Rgds,
                            Faraday88.
                            'Wisdom comes from living out of the knowledge.'

                            Comment

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