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Quiet1's SG build

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  • Quiet1's SG build

    I’ve been following John Bedini’s work for at least 20 years and wanted to build one of his “interesting” devices. However, the information available back then was, at best, unclear and comments on the various forums were terribly confusing. When I recently stumbled across the SG book series by Peter Lindemann and Aaron Murakami, things finally made sense and the desire to build a SG machine returned with renewed vigor. In this thread I will document my SG build, staying as close as practical to the design in the books. One exception is that I included the advanced upgrades such as tuning and generator mode into the initial build. This made “upgrading” quite easy.

    My main goal is to learn what this machine has to teach me. But it would be really nice if it manages to run “for an extended period of time!”

    Disclosure: As I write this, the project has completed the intermediate stage and has moved into the advanced material. I plan to describe the project chronologically from the beginning to help those who may follow. However, due to lax documentation, some photos may appear slightly out of order.

    Thanks for reading. Enjoy the ride!

  • #2

    If you are thinking of building a SG unit, I strongly suggest you start by getting a copy of the SG handbook series, available at These three volumes describe in detail how to build the machine and how it works. Everything you need is clearly explained. I read my books several times before starting on my project, and then a couple more while building. I’m still using them for reference. Great Stuff!

    The forum here is another excellent source of information. I’ve been lurking for a couple years and gleaned much information.

    Read and Learn.


    • #3
      Sourcing the Wheel

      After reading the SG books, and with a good idea of what I’m getting into, my first step for the project was to purchase a bicycle wheel. I had previously read on the forum that several people bought their wheels from Amazon, only to find that they are out of round and have terrible wobble. Straightening (“truing”) a wheel is a learned skill and requires a few special tools, as I observed when I had a bicycle rebuilt a few years ago. So, despite the attractive price on Amazon, I opted to purchase my wheel from a local bike shop. The results were fantastic.

      I stopped by the shop in mid-winter. A very nice older gentleman, the owner, was behind the counter. I described my project to him as a science fair type motor where there’s a bunch of magnets on a bike wheel and a pulsing coil under it making the wheel turn. (I really try to avoid talking about overunity and perpetual motion.) He accepted my story but I may have caught a very quick reaction of “that’s weird - but whatever.” We headed to the back room where he has hundreds of wheels hanging from the ceiling. He picked one of the proper size, put it in his truing stand, and gave it a spin. He checked for out of round and side to side wobble. With perhaps a half dozen minor adjustments to the spokes the wheel was running true. He then slightly loosened the hub bearings for less friction. In less than three minutes the wheel was perfect for use in my SG! The total cost was a little over $30.

      If you are looking for a bicycle wheel to use in your own build, please consider visiting your local bicycle stores. They will appreciate the business and the convenience is well worth the extra few dollars spent.


      • #4
        And then it was time to build the frame…

        To say my carpentry skills are terrible is being both generous and kind. John’s frame certainly looks easy enough, but it is made of wood! Fortunately there’s always a work around…

        Nearing retirement a few years ago I wanted to have a modest shop at home for projects like this SG. However, space was limited. At the time hobbyist 3D printers were getting popular and capable of surprisingly good results. I opted to go with the 3D printer instead of getting a mill, a lathe, and all the required tooling. It took a while to learn the printer, but now I can turn out a good part with little effort.

        So instead of cutting apart a 12”x48” board, I brought up the 3D mechanical CAD package. I made the base a bit taller to hold a standard size aluminum plate for the front panel (6” x 24” x 1/8” is a good size. I cut it twice to get three panels, each 6” x 8”). Reading ahead I also learned that I’d probably need to include some adjustment in the wheel to coil distance. I did this by making the uprights a bit longer and adding plastic shims (3d printed, of course) under the coil. Some shims are 1/8" thick, others are 0.10” thick. This gives flexibility in finding that “just right” distance for best performance. Every part has holes allowing the entire assembly to be bolted together. I also included mounting ears & holes so I can mount another aluminum plate on the back in case it is needed later. (Cap dump circuit, perhaps?) One glitch was that the uprights are longer than the printer can handle. So I designed them as multiple pieces and hold them together with brackets and screws.

        The 3D printing was generally uneventful, but it did take a good number of hours. I don’t mind having my robot laborer working on the SG project while I’m off doing something else - like having a nice cold beverage!

        Here is a picture of the 3D printed uprights and a coil winding jig:


        • #5
          Winding the Coil

          When it came time to wind the coil I followed the instructions almost exactly. My two exceptions are:
          1) My trigger wire is red instead of green, and
          2) My spool is 3D printed (of course)

          Otherwise I laid out the wires, twisted them together, and wrapped the resulting cable onto the spool, all as described in the beginner’s book and YouTube video. I printed a small fixture and handle to help with winding the coil, but it really wasn’t necessary.

          The welding rods for the coil’s core gave me pause. While I did find the rods in bulk at a good price, that left me with the problem of cutting them into accurate lengths. In the end I opted to purchase the cut rods from TeslaGenX. To me, the small extra cost was well worth the time and aggravation. And the quality of the purchased rods is much better anyway. Thanks, TeslaGenX!

          Gluing the rods into the coil’s core went easily and exactly as described. It was a great feeling when the coil was finished.


          • #6
            Mounting Magnets

            I purchased the suggested ceramic magnets (1” x 2” x .5”) from a low price online supplier. I ordered several extra magnets because I know they are brittle. I expected one or two to be damaged in shipping, and another one or two from poor handling on my part - and that’s about how things turned out.

            Spacing the magnets evenly on the rim turned out to be easy as the spokes of the wheel provided excellent guides. I cut some cardboard into a small “L” shape to help me center the magnets (left/right) on the rim. Initially I used hot glue because it set faster than the super glue. I wrapped the wheel and magnets with strapping (shipping) tape and was happy with the progress. However, the hot glue did not hold for more than a couple days. I followed up with super glue and all has been well since.

            Having a true running wheel did not guarantee a balanced wheel with the magnets mounted. The wheel definitely had a heavy point and always wanted to rotate that part down. I used a bolt and a few nuts to balance the wheel. Some I glued to the inside of the rim, some I placed in the hole where the tire valve stem fits. The wheel now rotates and stops at any location with no preference for up or down.

            Alas, static balancing must not be the same as dynamic balancing. When the wheel is running at high speed it has a fair amount of side to side wobble. Part of it is probably from using plastic instead of less flexible wood for the uprights. But there must also be some magnets that are slightly off center or perhaps heavier on one side. The wobble doesn’t appear to affect how the machine runs, but it’d be nice if it was running true. Maybe on the next machine - I plan to leave this one as it is.