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  • #31
    Hi Volty,

    Why would you want longer on times? In my mind this would only waste current and lead to higher temps in the coil and transistors. I found that a twenty percent on/ 80 percent off works best on all my rotored ssg's.

    As for the FWBR, coil shorting, and back popping; I haven't tried that. Only the generator coils with various rectifying modes, caps, and some kind of load. I'm not sure I even understand how to do the coil shorting part. I also wonder if back popping won't eventually harm the run battery. I'm already getting a COP over 1 in common ground mode with my newer bicycle wheel ssg, so I really see no point in trying to make a self runner with only one battery. Having a self runner would certainly be entertaining, but I am presently content with over unity and Two batteries.

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    • #32
      Originally posted by Gary Hammond View Post
      Hi Volty,

      Why would you want longer on times? In my mind this would only waste current and lead to higher temps in the coil and transistors. I found that a twenty percent on/ 80 percent off works best on all my rotored ssg's.

      As for the FWBR, coil shorting, and back popping; I haven't tried that. Only the generator coils with various rectifying modes, caps, and some kind of load. I'm not sure I even understand how to do the coil shorting part. I also wonder if back popping won't eventually harm the run battery. I'm already getting a COP over 1 in common ground mode with my newer bicycle wheel ssg, so I really see no point in trying to make a self runner with only one battery. Having a self runner would certainly be entertaining, but I am presently content with over unity and Two batteries.
      Hi Gary,

      Longer On-times are not for firing the SG or WM coil. The adjustable Hall On-time is to set a portion(s) of each wheel revolution to turn Off +12/24V to top of coil, disconnecting the battery School-Girl style, and Cap-Dumping or Generegizer Contacting at the correct moment, then re-connect +12/24V so self-triggering can resume. Some can make this happen between magnets for Trigger-Strand SG/WM.

      Anyway, the SSR driven by the 3175 Latching Hall work great for setting a disconnect time per revolution, and as speed control instead of a fan blade. I used CPC1718J SSR's driven by OSH3175 Hall. 3020's fire the Base of SG/WM trani' just fine, so i never noticed that at first they do not operate a SSR so well. I have the limiting resistor for the internal LED at 470 Ohms, so i can run on 24VDC at 50% max LED Amps, and not scorch the LED inside it.

      I never needed shorter On-time from 3020 Hall with WM drive-timing, so never tried your two-in-series to trim On-time down. You could use a 3175 to gate a 3020 for sure, just as i do the trigger strand/motor power.

      The School Girl was a back-popper. Cap dumping is back-popping when done in rhythm with the battery V-rise response. Why would you not want maximum return for your efforts? You are already Cap Dumping. You see the batery voltage rise with a strong dump, but what went inside went in the second the increase stopped increasing.

      Are you really just wanting to keep observing after a Cap Dump makes the voltage surge upwards and let that volt or so 'surface charge' fade away back down to battery normal 'steady-state voltage' and fail to even try to grab what is fading away before it is lost. Jesus said something to a silly practice 'you strain out a gnat and swallow a Camel'. I say that is a crime... like throwing your own child high into the air and just standing by why they hit the ground, only to be lost forever :-(

      (really is the slower Ion flow pulse hysteresis from the dump) JB has been all over this topic, and it is School Girl essence. However, fools will be fools, then hire lawyers IF their battery explodes. 1KV with vent caps off no danger. More???... Hmmm.

      The real danger is dyslexia and working tired. Red to black. I blew off a 5Ah + Battery terminal a while back when the last battery in my parallel Charge bank i got backwards. It friggen vaporized the Copper. I had glasses on, thank you God.

      So it is up to us to grow hair down there and go for it like that school girl did. JB and TB call it Electron flow / Ion flow resonance, made possible by the Ion flow lag, which you observe every time you Cap Dump a pulse to a battery. Why not let it be all it can be?

      Check out my new pic's:
      WM SP5T FWBR Plus-DC to Battery_Plus Back-Poppe_Cutting the CU Sheet Stock.jpgWM SP5T FWBR Plus-DC to Battery_Plus Back-Popper.jpgWards Op-Amp Cap Dump Inside and Outside.jpgHAARP Standing Waves in the Chemtrails - Looking South Towards Santa Cruz - 1.jpgHAARP Standing Waves in the Chemtrails - Looking North Towards Oakland - 1.jpg

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      • #33
        Hi Ward,

        Longer On-times are not for firing the SG or WM coil. The adjustable Hall On-time is to set a portion(s) of each wheel revolution to turn Off +12/24V to top of coil, disconnecting the battery School-Girl style, and Cap-Dumping or Generegizer Contacting at the correct moment, then re-connect +12/24V so self-triggering can resume. Some can make this happen between magnets for Trigger-Strand SG/WM.
        OK, I think I see now where you're going with this. I misunderstood what you were trying to share. I'm an old geezer and a little slow on the uptake.


        I never needed shorter On-time from 3020 Hall with WM drive-timing, so never tried your two-in-series to trim On-time down. You could use a 3175 to gate a 3020 for sure, just as i do the trigger strand/motor power.
        I found very little performance improvement when adjusting from 22 percent on time to 20 percent on time. And anything less than 20 percent on time reduced the performance. So a single hall probably work just as well as two in series. It would be a simpler circuit for sure. I was just experimenting to see the effect.

        The School Girl was a back-popper.
        Can you explain this a little more? I just recently built a small School Girl as near to the original plans as I could, and kept blowing the MPS8099 transistor. I was powering it with a 9 volt rechargeable NiMh battery. After blowing three tranny's, I added a recovery diode and a second battery. It worked, but not very well. Then I replaced the 1N914 diode with a 1N4007, and replaced the MPS8099 with a MJL3055 and it worked much better.

        Cap dumping is back-popping when done in rhythm with the battery V-rise response. Why would you not want maximum return for your efforts?
        I may have to try this, but right now I have my plate full with other stuff. This is just one of many things I haven't gotten around to yet! Thanks for sharing. I'm impressed with your depth of knowledge. Even though I'm an old guy I really haven't learned much about this technology. (But don't tell my grandkids, they think I know everything! LOL)

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        • #34
          Hi Gary, I am newer than you so don't be impressed until i make back-popping work as JB and others have, and find guts to post that... I read about all this at archives on the web. The rare postings that get to it fast. It all all about the 1984 Free Energy Generator. The how-to-get-real-power now before inverters are involved. How to grab the part the battery cannot store while the grabbing is good. It is not hidden. It is in plain view, and we ignore it as we must focus on one piece at a time to move forward at all. The time is now to access the real power real time, and have the battery charged for later too.

          Tom B's link about Back-Poppers i posted above. Icehouse has the Negative Resistor explanation. Same Battery hysteresis response that can be ridden, not any kind of LC resonance at all, nor Battery plate resonance in the Mhz.

          Some current is required, and the Monopole Magneto Genergizer is a "Non-Reversing" Genergizer that maximizes radiant collection by only bouncing one pole. JB says this arrangement provides more current that a magneto normally would, and is "Tricky to wind". It is 4-Strands not twisted or crossed, Tesla-series connected, 6 of those in series for the super special School Girl Energizer Shawnee built. (edit WRONG - Shawnee built the tame no-motor no separate energizer de-evolution that was patentable)

          We can have Woodpecker SG 12VDC that is really supposed to be Jack-Hammer SG 24VDC Beast, and it works on a micro-accumulation basis (Edit typo) that we can gather in a Cap or Battery. We can also dump a high potential without so much current and get a similar response with a huge and slow hysteresis Ion flow hump in battery voltage lasting less than a second. Grab it quick! I am trying to get that part right now with WM Generator Coil, it is not Monopole, so i must harvest 270 degree peaks for South magnets my Trigger Strand does not fire. I will retry once per revolution again with this mechanical switching again also. SSR did not work so well, and is how i came up with adjustable ON-Time Latching 3175 Halls for longer On-times.

          I was pissed when i found it acted like a brake if leaving it connected to a load all the time, so i read again the Genesis 1984 Free Energy Generator, and JB's Lab Notes. JB says this second coil can charge a Cap and that Cap can run the motor with no battery at all. DadHaV showed that on Yotube with a WM driven by a 1 Tranisistor SG circuit, after he sped it up to charge the Cap with a Dremel tool. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vOldJUHhjnc 7 minutes from the end. His is not even Lockridge-style and it works, just one single Window Motor Coil, used in a correct way to self run. If i get 90 degrees Lockridge / Planetary Window Motor working well, also with Monopole Magneto Genergizer on the back shaft, i can die satisfied with a big smile on my face. No one is going to save the world, it does not want to be saved. We need cheap asphalt and plastic. Period! Not enough can embrace this stuff to ever threaten that petrochemical economic machine anyway, so we are allowed to play, quietly.

          JB and RF wrote at PESwiki about how the Yahoo Groups that Rick and Sterling ran all wanted more and more information, but did they still would not try what was already given in the 1984 Free Energy Generator booklet. The SG is what could be patented, JB says his real machine split into 3 parts so it could be patented.

          I failed at searching out what is maybe already in this forum, from long ago. I also see sensitive info is taken down, probably for liability sake or because it reveals what pdf's say, (that were written and put up for sale after publicly releasing the information within). Kind of like resin potting Comparators after selling them un-potted...

          . When JB shared what was posted years ago at Yahoo Groups, PESwiki, Tesla3, fight-4, he stated he would only post it briefly for certain key group leaders. So the details are highly compartmentalized over time and across servers, else they would be taken down. Tom Bearden shares pieces, JB shares pieces, Rick F. share(ed) pieces.

          They all keep repeating what the 1984 Free Energy Generator Guide says. Disconnect the battery before you try to dump to it or contact to it... to work the hysteresis lag within the battery.

          There is a required relaxation and surge time that is found with manipulation of the slant-cut Copper Pipe Coupler Commutator shown in the SG Beginner's Handbook, or so i have read. It always delivered the fast switching needed, and that fast switching is only needed for the Dump or Genergizer Contacting at 'wave' peaks. Tom B states "Must be less than 5nS switching". Well we know slow lousy Caps and transistors still get us gains, but why not just use a wire to do the dump or contacting and get to it?

          The only choices we need to make after disconnecting the battery to Cap Dump or Genergizer FWBR +DC Out Contact to the Battery, while -DC Out is always on Battery -, no Cap at all, just Tesla-Series winding of the coil... then the only choices left are is how often shall we do it, once per revolution, every so many revolutions, or at every Scaler South Back-Bounce, between magnets at the Monopole rotor wheel. How many uF do we "Really" need for best Volts / Amps and Joules jolting???

          We need to solve for Timing, quantity (Joules), and quality (Volts/Amp mix, Cap Bank size or Tesla-series strands and how many of these special coils in series needed for this Battery or (edit Vs. 'of') this Capacitor being charged)

          Do you notice the adjustable Capacitor in JB's School Girl Drawings? That may be a parallel bank of Electrolytic Capacitors that can be increased by switching more in parallel. Like the Manual Power Factor Correction / Capacitive Battery Charger Box posted below, but with bigger Photo Cap's. These particular Film Cap values inside that box are to limit Amps via phase shifting, a different application, but nice Cap Bank Size Selector switch example.

          Each battery has a different natural surge capacity / speed response to the jolt it gets, so finding the sweet spot with SG or WM may be not only timing, but also possibly the mix of Volts and Amps we hit the Battery with. With SG Base Trigger Pot, i see the effect of mixing in some Amps with the Volta helps much, and very dry low-Amp SG pulses hurt charging.

          Once per revolution tapping is almost zero drag. Why not tap every South Bounce (in the Monopole no North magnets) into a Capacitor, and once per revolution Dump that Cap into Battery i pondered. Rick F. at PESwiki worked with JB to replicate the (edit "1984 FEG switching") for himself to share with the groups, and he demonstrated "No Cap at all is actually better", IF Genergizer is what is being tapped. It is the Tesla-series winding that stores energy in the coil. However, with alternating magnets, it does NOT really "Charge up" the coil as described for the Monopole Genergizer.

          Monopole is Monopole so that reversing the coil will not happen and radiant will not be impeded. Tesla's DC impulses which Peter so nicely reviewed in his Free Energy Secrets of Cold Electricity pdf. AC no worky so well. Not even Spark (edit) Gap without magnet quenching of the Arc to stop it from ringing. Is why Erwin shows also a Magneto Genergizer at end of Window Motor Shaft. So not to be overlooked while building Lockridge Device / Planetary Window Motor. SG / WM both can turn this Monopole Genergizer.

          JB's Monopole Magneto Tesla-Series 4-Strands each coil x 6 coils in series. SG Handbook shows it charging a (edit) Variable Capacitor, and once per revolution dumping that to the Battery. Then put motor-section back to battery fast and use what will fade away in one second to pulse several magnet firings to keep the wheel going. Hysteresis management and rotor drag management.

          I did not make the "Tricky" Genergizer coil for SG yet, and went straight from a 4-Coiler rotored SG to Window Motor using Erwin's fight-4-truth archives. Thank God for Erwin. He revealed we should have had doubts about Mikes Cap-Only WM. What threw me was JB commenting favorably about it until he and RIck tried to reverse it and suspected he hid a 9V battery in the SSR body. That was a famous video that inspired many, like me, before i saw it could not be so if Hall switching from 0V start voltage on the Cap.

          With this Disk Commutator, i may solder switches between 2 of 3 segments and the ring all around for the Battery + Brush. So i can try 1-per revolution or 3 per revolution FWBR +DC tap to Battery +. The KV comes with keeping the FWBR -DC out always connected to Battery - and not loading the coil until that peak 'wave' moment. Sine wave for me. This is a SSR trying to do once per revolution on a Hex Rotor with alternating magnets.

          WM SP5T FWBR Plus-DC to Battery_Plus Back-Popper_Filing the Segments Same Width.jpgManual Power Factor Correction Cap Gang Box Outside ULTRA EFFICIENT wink wink- .jpgManual Power Factor Correction Cap Gang Box Inside ULTRA EFFICIENT wink wink-.jpgWM Half Bi-Polar 1020VAC at 936 RPMs from Big Pig Gen Coil.jpg

          I have the slant commutator, but needs a resin top coat to fillin some noisy valleys, and a way to hold the brass rod brushes to be worked out. I am hoping the wooden disk will not translate as much noise through the threaded rod shaft. Even the all the way round Copper portion is noisy.

          I must force my hands to move every day, and will force them to finish back-popping and share. Patrick says John Korn long ago posted (edit sorry such not 'suck) such, and i will ask him if he can link me to it. Was on Yahoo GroupsBM2. Restricted. BM1 i joined, but it appears dead, replaced by this forum?
          Last edited by Volty; 04-25-2015, 10:58 PM.

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          • #35
            Nice post Volty, very interesting.

            JB said that he made the ssg so we don't have to use a dc motor. But as you say, it has to be disconnected when the cap dump is happening.
            I have also noticed that the gen coils does produce drag doesn't matter which side I chop with the diodes. Is like in the advanced handbook; where Peter explains that you have to chop the wave in the highest part.
            Is not back-popping but I always wondered and I still wonder what was exactly the highly modified school girl of the TUV tests. COP 12 ...
            best,

            Alvaro

            Comment


            • #36
              Hi Ward,

              Interesting post, but I was confused by some of your terminology and claims.

              Some current is required, and the Monopole Magneto Genergizer is a "Non-Reversing" Genergizer that maximizes radiant collection by only bouncing one pole. JB says this arrangement provides more current that a magneto normally would, and is "Tricky to wind". It is 4-Strands not twisted or crossed, Tesla-series connected, 6 of those in series for the super special School Girl Energizer Shawnee built.
              I've not heard the term "Genergizer" used before. Is this the same as what JB refers to as an energizer? From your description it sounds like what John described in the 1984 Free Energy Generation Handbook and was used by Jim Watson. And he refers to the entire ssg bicycle wheel machine as an energizer in his videos.

              Also, it is my understanding that the "school girl motor" built by Shawnee Baughman used a simple bifilar coil of 450 turns and a separate generator coil of 1000 turns connected to only a LED. No back-popping circuit from either coil, no high voltage spike recovery diode circuit, and no capacitor. The high voltage spike somehow fed back through the transistor to the battery without blowing the transistor. At least that's what is written in the SG Beginner's Handbook.

              Comment


              • #37
                Originally posted by Gary Hammond View Post
                Hi Ward,

                Interesting post, but I was confused by some of your terminology and claims.



                I've not heard the term "Genergizer" used before. Is this the same as what JB refers to as an energizer? From your description it sounds like what John described in the 1984 Free Energy Generation Handbook and was used by Jim Watson. And he refers to the entire ssg bicycle wheel machine as an energizer in his videos.

                Also, it is my understanding that the "school girl motor" built by Shawnee Baughman used a simple bifilar coil of 450 turns and a separate generator coil of 1000 turns connected to only a LED. No back-popping circuit from either coil, no high voltage spike recovery diode circuit, and no capacitor. The high voltage spike somehow fed back through the transistor to the battery without blowing the transistor. At least that's what is written in the SG Beginner's Handbook.
                Hi Gary, "Genergizer" is what i call the 1984 monopole magneto energizer. Since JB calls the SG an energizer, it kind of designates non-motor function energizer, aka generator only, but Tesla-series connected.

                Yes you are correct and i am wrong Shawnee did not wind an energizer with 6 Tesla-series coils serial connected as i wrongly stated. The first glance at SG Handbook Chapter 1 showing the 1984 FEG made me error. I just read it again and grabbed these screen shots.

                The shot showing the special coil configuration laying sideways struck me again when a friend pointed out the below Youtube video.

                https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3kpDMMcNQxc John_Bedini_Zero_Force_Motor_002

                Energizer in 1984 Free Energy Generator.jpgOriginal School Girl Energizer of 6 Coils from SG Beginner's Handbook.jpg
                Last edited by Volty; 04-25-2015, 09:33 PM.

                Comment


                • #38
                  Hi Alvaro,

                  Trigger Strand operation technically disconnects until triggered. If your wheel has an even number of magnets, the dedicated energizer coil at top can be offset half a magnet so it has a magnet when SG coil at bottom is between magnets and not technically connected to battery. Cap dump may take longer than you have between magnets, and is where you can turn off power to SG so you have a few magnets to do what every you need if it takes longer.

                  I do not have the Advanced Handbook yet. What do you mean "Chopping" Do you mean connecting briefly at the peak voltage, or connecting for a whole quarter cycle? My Window Motor has reversing magnets, so i see a generator Sine wave, not magneto wave like yours.

                  Thanks

                  Comment


                  • #39
                    Hi Volty, What I mean about chopping the highest part of the wave is for example, you have generator coils charging a cap bank, and you are dumping that cap into a battery. So if you dump the cap when it is 20 V down to the battery voltage 12v, so when the cap dumps it does not get totally empty, so the gen coils don't have to fill it from zero. The gen coils would only produce drag when the wave is higher than 12v. That is what I meant with "copping part of the wave" the part of the wave that in higher than 12V.

                    Comment


                    • #40
                      Coil Shorting Ismael Avisos Low Ohms Way w 10 Paralleled FETs.jpgHi Alvaro, and thank you for teaching me. All Smartys please join in and teach me coil shorting/un-shorting. Thank you All. I am trying to see what you describe. Clipping above 12V per Cap only dumps down to battery i have done. Are you shorting or un-shorting?

                      I think i see a Comment from you here in this Coil Shorting Vs. Coil Un-Shorting Video by FreeEnergyJoe. He is using Arduino with a Hall Trigger. Fits this thread ;-)
                      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lxh3XnU8lko

                      It looks like he is using several cycles of square wave to gate a short. Then he shows un-shorting. Look how shorting only costs 2 RPM's and no extra Amps ! ! !

                      I am brick thick. Just made this disk commutator and forgot in WM second generator coil at 90 degrees can short every peak since it has no motor function to avoid. I just added the motor coil and before this was trying to short / connect at negative Sine peaks only, because i drive every North with Trigger Strand WM using Bedini-Cole Half Bi-Polar. I will make 3 more segments and Gorilla Glue them to the plywood, then top coat with resin. Will top coat my Slant-cut Pipe Coupler Commutator also so less noise.

                      Anybody got brushes designed yet? Erwin's Fight-4-truth Brass Piston style i lean towards scraping Brass Rods sides on Slant-cut, and disk commutator rounded Brass Rod tip dragging at a shallow angle.

                      WM S-Magnet Tapper-Commutator for FWBR to Battery.jpgCommutator Perfect Alignmet w 120 degree Set Screws Each End.jpgCoil Shorting FreeEnergyJoes Youtube Screen Shot.jpgCoil Un-Shorting FreeEnergyJoes Youtube Screen Shot.jpg
                      Last edited by Volty; 04-26-2015, 09:03 AM.

                      Comment


                      • #41
                        I am not in the teaching possition, I am learning but tnx you!.

                        The truth is that I have not tried real coil shorting yet, only with a reed but just testing.

                        I got all exited again when I looked at coil shorting videos like that one you talk about when the guy shows coil shorting and coil unshorting.

                        So I started to build the little machine that I currently have, but I did not started to make the coil shorting yet, when I was building it was when the advanced book was released so I tryed that first. But in the bench I didn't get what I was looking for and I got a little moral deception, lol.

                        But I will go ahead and try the coil shorting !!! I have some 250 mosfets and optos to try something, and halls and 555.

                        best,

                        Alvaro

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