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  • #46
    Spike Node!!!
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cn-wplKBSL4

    Sorry for the exclamations just some humor to ring in the New Year. Happy New Year to all!! Actually a pretty boring video in some ways, that said progress is being made. The take home from this video is you can place a node coil on the spike and rectify the rectified spike! (sorry). Saw about 20% improvement in charge. One mistake I may have made in the video is when I mentioned going to a 4-wire coil as opposed to bifilar and said resistance would decrease and the spike stay the same. Rather I think resistance would decrease and the spike would improve appreciably. So no matter how you slice it there is room to run with improving what you get off this node. Am going to try another battery test, first saw maybe 60, maybe 70%++ recovered with shortened pulses but power so low then as to be negligible. This one will be a "three battery" set-up. Am looking for 90%+ recovered and at a minimum just looking for clear improvement. After this, will see about throwing in a node and/or nodes and see if they play well with others. Apropos of nothing, have done a bit looking at pulses from caps whether by hand or arduino. One thing you can see with a cap pulse on arduino is if you wait longer till the next pulse you get a bit more output, i.e. 10% versus 50% duty cycle, i.e. the ringing of the coil. Now, a battery will likely dampen things a bit faster than a cap, still I would say you don't want to go over 33% duty cycle and even will likely get a couple/few percent improvement going from 33% to 10% duty cycle. Maybe others will see otherwise but that is what I am seeing.
    Last edited by ZPDM; 01-01-2020, 01:38 AM.

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    • #47
      Branch Current charger: Part I.
      https://youtu.be/JPucT2AQ1KM

      Getting close to a sort of Mark I variant, will have three or four branch currents. Will diagram after I've played with it a bit more and gathered enough data to be sure its worth diagramming out for others. May add in a node after that may not. Want to look at adding in one wire power with a cap dump as the next part. If you have been following along you may have noticed I am talking a lot about one wire power without doing anything, truthfully I may be a bit intimidated that said it just occurred to me today, one wire power( as I set it up) is conceptually the exact same as the "Bedini Backwards Diode" radiant spike just with an alternate return path to a ground outside of circuit ground. I find that reassuring. Having an alternate return path does not affect amp draw. As someone else commented previously on this thread, one may likely be seeing a recycling of charge, an apparent but not genuine increase in charge. I've certainly considered a position like that, I will only say if you set up a one wire system, see it having no effect on amp draw or output of the circuit and pouring charge into another capacitor you are really left scratching your head with where exactly did that come from? Last thought which occurred to me 15 minutes ago. There was a free energy device which I remember very little about except it was from somewhere in rural Eastern Europe, there were goats wondering around and the gentleman hooked it up and the lights came on and he said it was all just from Tesla, it also had TWO earth grounds separated by a few tens of yards. So now I am wondering holy moly can you have more than one alternate "ground" path, separate from your circuit ground? Once I get going with this I will see if perhaps the plumbing ground and electrical ground are isolated enough to find out. If that does turn out to be the case, does it having bearing on Wydencliff tower? Enough with the speculating.

      Did see about COP 1.03 with the brief pulse run of the second design shown in the video, was likely COP maybe 0.9 - 0.95 as some of the batteries were mismatched in terms of capacitance. Right now I have gotten rid of the 3 battery set-up but added a third branch current will see what I get and also maybe look at the 3 branch current set-up with three battery set-up. Once I am sure I have something with decent COP at least 0.8 or 0.9 or better while running the DC motor will diagram it out for others to also have fun with.

      Edit: So far the three branch set-up w/o adding the three battery set-up looks to be COP > 1 with motor and light running. Will have to see if will hold up but the approach is so simple will look to diagram it out.

      Further Edit: Li-ons much different, COP>1 while running < 1 after resting ?? Any event getting there.

      Post Post Post Script: Here's what I think I'm seeing. I reserve the right to correct myself tomorrow and say that's Cwazy Talk! Why are you always with the cwazy talk! The batteries moved from the three battery position no longer wanted to take a radiant charge (others on the forum might speak to this better than I). So with them in place, now taking a (branch) radiant charge, I saw COP > 1 until things shut down then that set of batteries dropped like a rock to where it was before starting the charge. Replacing those batteries, it looks like COP >1 all around except the batteries I replaced them with are old, lower capacity batteries. Oh gosh, where to go, where to go, where to go next, would like to throw in a node, start one wire power, etc. Should probably look at FWBR though, does it work as well as one diode rectification? (can you even do FWBR off a branch?) does it get rid of the changes in battery behavior?? (important one). If anyone knows all this already please be so kind as to tell me before I start as it will take some time to figure out. In summary looks like COP >1 with motor running and light going, but that's cwazy talk. Last comment, the batteries that didn't want to accept the radiant, when set-up in a branch configuration, blunted the charging even of the other batteries, so would just say thank heavens John Bedini mentioned this. This sort of stuff is like a rubic's cube cubed to get to the bottom of it.
      Last edited by ZPDM; 01-04-2020, 12:43 AM.

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      • #48
        Looks like with a single branch current Cop > 1. Certainly requires, blah, blah, blah. What I want to know is can I switch the run and charge batteries? Will the "negative charging" present a problem with this? Certainly, maybe in a little different circumstances, others here have tried this, what is your experience does it work? Likewise, will FWBR a) wreck the Cop > 1, prolly not b) allow for battery rotation between run and charge positions. Any thoughts?
        Last edited by ZPDM; 01-04-2020, 01:00 AM.

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        • #49
          Here is a schematic for the Solid State Branch Charger. CircuitOne_bb.jpg
          It is not perfect, i.e. the Led should not be shorted, alkaline batteries were not used, the inductor is a bit larger, but that is the idea. That branch is a simple way of receiving, at least looking at into caps, an extra 30% charge. One issue I may have been mistakenly hung up on previously was always calculating energy, which follows V squared. So the branch current may not actually increase energy out, but it increases charge out, and at some point it occurred to me if the charge is at high enough potential to roll down hill into the battery, well charge is what charges the battery. In any event, if one does not use an outlandish pulse length or duty cycle one should see a CoP > 1 with the set-up with the motor running and Led lit. This is not very unexpected as people who are expert with the SSG or similar set-ups may report a a CoP even of 2 without even using a branch current. If one can capture more induction though off of branches, nodes, one-wire, it seems worth taking a looking at. When I switched the run and charge batteries, suddenly the charge batteries did not want to take charge (CoP 0.3 - 0.4), such an odd finding. I had hoped that this was something idiosyncratic to lead acid batteries, but no seems to be there with Li-ions as well. For the time being I am going to see if progress can be made with switching the batteries. A few thoughts, 1) the charge batteries in a "three battery/common ground" set-up are not being "negatively charged" as far as I can tell and one could switch them as is done with the Tesla switch and such. This is not a three battery set-up, still maybe if I switch them back and forth real quick they won't notice the negative charging, haha, doesn't make any sense to me but who knows. 2) maybe replacing the two blocking diodes with FWBRs, I honestly have no idea how that will work either in terms of efficiency or battery conditioning. 3) Was thinking about how long this will take to look at, will take a day just to deplete the batteries to get rid of the negative conditioning and recharge them, wait a minute, that is how John Bedini said to get rid of the 'negative charge" deplete the batteries entirely, right? So, instead of switching quickly between run and charge, how about just depleting the run batteries entirely while they are running the battery charger. i.e. instead of switching run and charge back and forth every second, run the run batteries down to 3.2 volts, i.e. dead for Li-ions before switching them to the charge position? They might have been receiving negative charge but if they have no charge left in them, it might just work. So I will look at this first and will also probably look at FWBR, each will take some time to do. Maybe neither approach will work, maybe both approaches will work, don't know yet. Lastly, am having success with a pulse length about 1/2 the inductor time constant and duty cycle of 33%. With capacitors one sees a gradual efficiency improvement with pulse lengths briefer and briefer than this, but with batteries there comes a point where they just refuse to budge if the pulse length is too short. So there is likely a sweet spot there and it may be more out towards 1 inductor time constant, so I am going to try and creep the pulse length up a bit on this test and see if it does better/worse/stays the same.

          Edit: One last point, I strongly suspect there is a definitive way to "solve" the battery conditioning issue and that is to switch the current direction every pulse into the coil, this could be done with an arduino triggered Bedini/Cole bipolar commutator switch. Would be a more complicated build and I am by no means circuit guy, but may be worth the attempt.
          Last edited by ZPDM; 01-09-2020, 03:00 PM.

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          • #50
            Update: The first attempt at replication was a nearly unmitigated disaster. A number of likely errors were made. 1) Three of the batteries were discharged to approximately 2.4 volts, this likely damaged them. 2) These three batteries at 7.2 volts were paired with three batteries at 3.5 volts each (10.5 volts). As the diodes switch between conducting and blocking modes the branch at 10.5 volts attempts to charge the branch at 7.2 volts at the same time that the branch at 7.2 volts is seeing the radiant inductive spike. It seems that batteries do not like to be charged conventionally and radiantly at the same time. So the CoP was quite bad initially, 0.5 or less. As the voltages between the two sets of batteries things began to improve. I also got rid of the DC motor. I say nearly unmitigated disaster because at this point the CoP became really quite good. Shortly after though a surprising and unfortunate thing happened. I went to shut down the machine for the night and could not get a voltage reading on the branch of batteries that started at 7.2 volts. I broke them apart and found 2 of them at 0.1 volts and the other at 4.6 volts. I am still uncertain exactly what happened but apparently 2 of the batteries gave up the ghost and the other seeing the 10-11 volts in the other branch got overcharged, so likely wrecked three batteries, I am not certain how the other two went to 0 volts without any heat, smoke, fire or damage to the running circuit, one would have expected them to have possibly caught fire. Which brings up one other necessary point,

            Disclaimer: I am in no means responsible for any harm to person or property which may come from attempts to replicate any provided circuits or derivatives thereof. The inductive spikes which occur are high voltage, high voltage may be fatal, lithium ion batteries if shorted will catch fire, never leave a running circuit unattended. Do not attempt to replicate these circuits. If one does so it is solely at one's own risk and responsibility.

            I am going to leave off working on a more finished iteration at this point and return for awhile to more basic research. What exactly is the relationship between resistance, input amps and the inductive spike? Almost certainly addition of resistance makes things worse, despite the diminution of amp draw. One has the equations for steady state current, instantaneous current and induced emf and so could start plugging in numbers but it is likely worth putting in a say 100 ohm and 1k resistor observing amp draw and charge and voltage out to a cap, then maybe look at some equations and see if things match up. This would be ohmic resistance, there is also the issue of dynamic resistance/impedance as is seen say with the DC motor where the commutator of that motor is switching on and off independent of the other coil being pulsed. That would be a tougher nut to crack but I would just say it looks like the addition of the DC motor makes the CoP worse. Also, can one add an inductor, a "node" to a one-wire power configuration? Don't know, am looking forward to looking at that. Peace.

            Node Circuit:

            Node.jpg

            Spike Node Circuit:

            SpikeNode.jpg

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            • #51
              No appreciable success for me adding a node to one wire, maybe 1% drawing power off it compared to the one wire power, worth a shot. Am working now on the one wire power video. Level 42 secrets of the Grand PoohBah there, haha.

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              • #52
                Making Progress, here is the Solid State Battery Charger Mark II

                https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Psj_6NLmzY

                I am almost embarrassed how easy an Arduino + solid state relays can make certain tasks. Things that might have taken people days or weeks to set-up I can just throw on a bread board and throw in a couple lines of code. The SSRs are not great for actually triggering the coil to generate the radiant as the on time is dictated by the LED and being relatively slow this blunts the radiant, same thing seen with setting up an opto-isolator/BJT, but for other tasks they seem to work fine as an off the shelf thing.

                Not certain if the theory talked about in the second half of the video is worth anything or not, but it does seem likely that one needs a power source that is matched to the coil, along with having a reasonable pulse length and duty cycle for the system. At this point I want to gather some data actually charging batteries and seeing is this a good set-up or one that only looks interesting. Will also run the cap dump back to source vs back to charge batteries and compare. Along with playing with the coils, pulse length, duty cycle, easiest way to also expect some further improvement might be to run the thing at 48 volts. Before doing that want to having a more clear idea of what it is currently doing.

                We do have (at least) one more card up our sleeve to play which I haven't discussed in previous videos. Namely, suppose one has a 20 Volt source going through a coil with a pulse length such that one finds well that pulse length fills a,I don't know, 10 uF cap to 20 volts from a single pulse One could make that the first step, gather the spike from the coil as the cap fills. Next turn around and discharge the cap and again capture the electricity from the magnetic flux. Not saying it would double your electric output for the same input, but is a reasonable hope that it would improve things, possibly significantly. It is a little bit analogous to the common ground/split positive set-up but you can use it in conjunction with a split positive set-up. Not reasy to go there yet, want to see what I have at the moment, in terms of battery charging, then probably see if it improves at a bit higher voltage.

                As noted in the video if enough people are interested I could try and make an hour video of just building this thing from scratch from a blank bread board. In any event I hope people find this video enjoyable and useful.

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                • #53
                  This is about 45 minutes. I am discussing how inductors behave when pulsed and why short pulses are a good thing. I said "electromagnetic force" when I should have said "electromotive force" about a half dozen times early in the video. The audio isn't terrible but certainly could use some work, yes P =IV not IR as I stupidly said at some point. Still, I hope some may find this enjoyable, useful and of value.

                  https://youtu.be/5wzK5DzX8Jo

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