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  • ZFM with Water Pump

    From the very beginning of this replication one of the primary goals was to demonstrate that the ZFM design concept is capable of performing work in the real world - in this instance pumping water. While the ZFM is a capable high RPM machine would it pump water? The overall torque of the YZFM has improved dramatically since the humble beginnings, but is it enough to drive a 4000 RPM pump, albeit that the pump speed is way low in comparison to the normal 10,000-12,000 RPM capabilities.

    So to start, the ZFM is being asked to work outside of its normal operational zone, in reality the motor should have been outfitted with a speed reducing belt drive for best efficiency. Well all that was easily available was a 12 volt Harbor Freight utility pump, not a great performance fit, but workable. The ZFM shaft was modified nearly a year ago to accept this pump and recently the pump assembly was united with the ZFM.

    Really the expectations were rather low for this test and no earth shattering performance was expected. So the performance figures are not anything great, but they are enough to show that the machine and pump assembly, albeit in a crude state will function and perform real work. That is the point here.

    Basic performance data:
    70 degree firing duration and 35-40 degree advance
    24V at 2270 RPM with 2.16A and 2.3 GPM
    36v at 2500 RPM with 2.82A and 3.0 GPM
    48v at 3250 RPM and 3.38A and 3.4 GPM

    The flow rates were relatively simple to calculate using a 5 gallon Lowes bucket and timing the fill to determine the true flow GPM (The Lowes bucket was filled to the brim and weighed for the capacity calc). The entire assembly was fairly sensitive to alignment and hose loading, but playing around with this gave relatively consistent results.

    The highest amperage draw was observed at 48v with a 5 psig back pressure on the pump (using the ball valve to reduce the flow area) - this drove the amperage to 4.8 A and lowered the speed to 1535 RPM. For 36 volts the machine nearly stalled at about the same amperage. Both coils heated up rapidly - not ideal for the plastic housing.

    So, while the performance was no better and less than a standard motor/pump assembly, though the ZFM was operated well outside of its speed range - well it did work.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r3fO-IQpPI8

    This experiment then ends the YZFM replication project. On the horizon in late fall are the performance efficiency tests (COP) utilizing a Prony brake or similar method. Time for a hiatus for the last couple of months of summer. There are other ZFM fish to fry in the near future.

    Thank you for your attention and encouragement,
    Yaro
    Yaro

    "The Universe is under no obligation to make sense to you." -Neil Degrasse Tyson

    Comment


    • Hey Richard thanks for the reply,

      You will note that I stated "one of the primary goals" in my latest post. I have not published, to date, any information with respect to the efficiency for energy performance of the ZFM. The term "over unity" is not relevant to this machine since it is an "open system" design, and therefore, the term COP is applicable. An important point!

      If any information is to be published on this type of energy efficiency, it will be done with solid information, data and other replicated efforts. This is the only way that I will approach it. So it is a moot point of discussion for the time being until all is thoroughly proofed and vetted. This is just good science and practice.

      Be assured that once these power efficiency tests have been completed and proofed that the results will be published - be they good, bad or indifferent.

      Sit back and enjoy the ride or better yet, become engaged,
      Yaro
      Yaro

      "The Universe is under no obligation to make sense to you." -Neil Degrasse Tyson

      Comment


      • Hi guys, this is Chad on RS's computer. I'm up at his shop for a few days.. We are working on all the projects for the museum. Right now I'm working on a hand crank generator. I'm looking for all the tricks in lowering Lenz drag in generator mode under load. My question here is, have you had a chance or the ability to manually spin up a ZFM using a drill, or any other prime mover...? I'm curious if the ZFM can generate voltage and current, and if so, does the load take off put resistance on the prime mover, and make it pull more current...? We understand that the ZFM is a bloch wall motor.. Is the ZFM also a BLOCH wall generator...??
        Last edited by RS_; 08-15-2017, 05:44 PM.

        Comment


        • Originally posted by RS_ View Post
          Hi guys, this is Chad on RS's computer. I'm up at his shop for a few days.. We are working on all the projects for the museum. Right now I'm working on a hand crank generator. I'm looking for all the tricks in lowering Lenz drag in generator mode under load. My question here is, have you had a chance or the ability to manually spin up a ZFM using a drill, or any other prime mover...? I'm curious if the ZFM can generate voltage and current, and if so, does the load take off put resistance on the prime mover, and make it pull more current...? We understand that the ZFM is a bloch wall motor.. Is the ZFM also a BLOCH wall generator...??
          Hi Chad --

          I have hooked my Zero Force Motor up to a Capacitor Dump Circuit and the output spike from the Coils I measured was double the input voltage. At the time I did this experiment I was running my ZFM on one 12 volt battery and charging a second 12 volt battery through my capacitor dump circuit. The results were it was charging the battery but at the spike level it would take more then likely 2 weeks of running to charge a battery. You would be charging the run battery before the charge battery was even 10% charged. My Zero Force Motor board has timing LED's on it and when you spin the rotor and shaft with no battery hooked up the timing LED's do light up so long as the rotor is turning. My guess is at least 25 mili-amps is flowing through the un-powered ZFM board. As far as a BLOCH wall generator it would depend on how much current and voltage you are trying to generate. The LED's lighting up shows its generating voltage and current.

          -- James

          Comment


          • Zero Force Motor Improvements Since April 2017

            Hi All --

            I did a video last night on a few improvements to my Zero Force Motor. The motor is only
            running on +24 volts of Lead Acid batteries so the RPM's are not over 3500 RPM in this video.
            The new stronger Neo magnets do provide a lot more torque but they do reduce the RPM some.
            I found that running my ZFM in the CCW direction I get more torque but around 500 RPM less
            speed then the CW direction with slightly less torque then the CCW direction. I also found out
            that depending on the type of timing magnet you use you will have to be careful of the North
            South directions they are facing towards the front of the motor. The magnet type I used requires
            one to be North facing forward and the other being South facing forward or the motor will not
            run. The results are a high current draw that can damage the transistors. Make sure you hook up
            a current meter to watch the current draw on your first power up of your ZFM build.

            Enjoy the video!!!

            https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mRfm5lFc3TI

            -- James McDonald

            Comment


            • James nice video, when the machine turns off it produces high voltage spikes... It reminds me of a generator John Bedini said he experimented with in his 1984 book.

              Attached Files

              Comment


              • Originally posted by Dave Wing View Post
                James nice video, when the machine turns off it produces high voltage spikes... It reminds me of a generator John Bedini said he experimented with in his 1984 book.

                Of course, those two tank circuits will want to be driven at a particular frequency - or octave.

                Comment


                • Originally posted by wrtner View Post
                  Of course, those two tank circuits will want to be driven at a particular frequency - or octave.
                  Hi ,

                  This diagram pertains only about the Monopole Energiser for the Single Battery system, think again those Capacitors could only be representing the state of the coils in that configurations and not as actual lumped physical Capacitors!!
                  Rgds,
                  Faraday88.
                  Last edited by Faraday88; 08-30-2017, 11:18 PM. Reason: correction
                  'Wisdom comes from living out of the knowledge.'

                  Comment


                  • Zero Force Motor Running on a 100 Watt Solar Panel

                    Hi All --

                    I just wanted to post a quick link to my latest video showing the Zero Force Motor running on Solar Power.
                    The solar panel is a 100 watt 4 amp solar panel and the peak voltage output in full sun is 22 volts.

                    Enjoy the video.


                    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=utjk-PT7mFo&feature=youtu.be


                    -- James McDonald
                    Last edited by James McDonald; 09-04-2017, 02:29 PM.

                    Comment


                    • Hey James,

                      Thanks for the demonstration video mating the ZFM with a solar panel. An instructive and fun video, a quick tip of the hat to you. So what happens when the voltage is ramped up? - can't wait for the next episode!

                      It works...
                      Yaro
                      Yaro

                      "The Universe is under no obligation to make sense to you." -Neil Degrasse Tyson

                      Comment


                      • John liked to give out hints. A couple I focused on were, "it is a push pull operation for this you need an H bridge" ( my word)

                        Now all the replications built so far have only been pullers. And two such were singled out as "don't go there" (tinman and lidmotor) why?

                        All the replications don't need the H bridge unless they run NS configuration.

                        However if you turn the magnet 90 degrees (to vertical) then it becomes a push pull machine and requires an H bridge.

                        Check out my video and see if this will fly?

                        https://www.youtube.com/watch?
                        v=YxTzydJUhxE&feature=youtu.be


                        Thanks,

                        Ron

                        Comment


                        • You might have a point there, the reason your setup is "shooting out" from either side and "pulling in" from either side (when power reversed) the reason is because you have your magnet oriented sideways rather than with the magnet polarity facing the coil. if a magnet is facing north toward you, there is a South all around it 360 degrees, the "imaginary south" so if you have a small wheel with magnets in close proximity, the magnetic field will be NSNSNSNS.

                          That being said, I can't say that I have seen anyone set it up the way you have, kind of forcing the orientation. I like that people are sharing their ideas. This is a must try!

                          You are onto something in addition, John uses the Bedini/Cole ckt to drive this for a reason. Wish I could articulate why, I just know when I drive it with that ckt my battery is much happier.


                          Originally posted by i_ron View Post
                          John liked to give out hints. A couple I focused on were, "it is a push pull operation for this you need an H bridge" ( my word)

                          Now all the replications built so far have only been pullers. And two such were singled out as "don't go there" (tinman and lidmotor) why?

                          All the replications don't need the H bridge unless they run NS configuration.

                          However if you turn the magnet 90 degrees (to vertical) then it becomes a push pull machine and requires an H bridge.

                          Check out my video and see if this will fly?

                          https://www.youtube.com/watch?
                          v=YxTzydJUhxE&feature=youtu.be


                          Thanks,

                          Ron

                          Comment


                          • Thanks for the come back. Yes, I see it as a "possible"

                            If one looks at John's flux patterns... take the one on the left and pretend that is a magnet. It is easy enough to see then that the "green blobs" will inter lace (right word?) exactly, whereas approaching the right coil, face on, only allows a one pole interplay. So, if you are going to use the side of the coil --- use the side of the magnet.

                            Thing is, it seems a much stronger pull in, push out that my first demo with just single pole.

                            Ron
                            Last edited by i_ron; 10-29-2017, 10:08 AM.

                            Comment


                            • Just a quick explanation of what I was attempting to explain in the video...

                              magnetic-electric2.jpg

                              If you trigger on the RED line then you get one smooth motion from one end coil to the other

                              If you trigger on the GREEN line then it pulls in and stops at the block wall ... you then change polarity of the coil and it pushes out.

                              Supposing we put the coil and magnet in parallel?

                              Flux 2.jpg



                              Ron
                              Attached Files
                              Last edited by i_ron; 10-30-2017, 06:11 PM.

                              Comment


                              • Hi everyone,

                                Well that experiment might have been politically correct but the bottom line is it is not very strong.

                                With a balanced arm and a kitchen digital scale I get 14 grams for the green line and 40 grams for the red line. So the red line wins hands down as that 40 grams is for just about the full width of the coil whereas the green line is just for two tiny windows at either end of the coil.

                                Edit: the secret seems to be the magnet should be as long as the coil... then I get 34 grams

                                Ron
                                Last edited by i_ron; 10-30-2017, 06:16 PM.

                                Comment

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