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  • Forgive me for the ad, but this is the culmination of Yaro and James' work on this project and Peter's contributions as relating to the Zero Force Motor.

    EVOLUTION OF THE ZERO VACUUM ENGINE - A REPLICATION OF JOHN BEDINI'S ZERO FORCE MOTOR by Yaro Stanchak.



    This is an exclusive FULL DISCLOSURE to the general public for the first time ever. If you want to know how to perfectly replicate one of John Bedini's most coveted technologies that he never openly shared, then this is the presentation you want to add to your library. Several builders online have shown their attempts at replicating John's ZFM, but unfortunately 100% of them got it wrong!

    You will learn the history and genesis of where it came from, how it shaped John Bedini's magnetic model that shows the difference between the electric lines of flux and the TRUE magnetic field, which is somewhat hidden. There are a few anomalous characteristics that Yaro shares from his own experience as well as all details necessary to REPLICATE this motor. This presentation is about 2 hours long.

    Zero Force Motor by Yaro Stanchak
    Aaron Murakami





    You never change things by fighting the existing reality. To change something, build a new model that makes the existing model obsolete. ― Richard Buckminster Fuller

    Comment


    • Originally posted by drew_mi View Post
      Hello to all,

      I have read through all the posts (I don't think I missed any, at least) and I still have a really simple question: what is the practical use of the Zero Force motor?

      I came to this forum by stumbling across the SSG. I've bought the books and am making plans to build it; but, my ADD kicked in and I've found myself bing-reading these forums (incredible work and God bless those who've shared enough to keep my interest!). For those of us that are just starting into this, it would be helpful to know something practical about the devices JB developed & inspired. If it's just something to do because it's cool & the world says it can't be done, that's fine too.

      Thank you,
      Drew
      Hi Drew --

      To answer your question on a practical use of this Zero Force Motor. Our first project which Yaro has set out to do is to run
      a water pump. My goal is to run a car alternator to charge batteries while the motor is running on solar cells. This motor once it is
      at the high RPM's draws less current then a conventional motor. These are two practical uses of the Zero Force Motor which are
      possible. I can tell you that at the 2017 Energy & Technology Conference this presentation on the Zero Force Motor kept everyone
      there glue to their seats. I was there in one of those seats and I purchased the presentation information myself because it was such
      a good presentation.

      -- James

      Comment


      • Originally posted by Richard
        Thank you, Aaron, that looks like a must have package which I intend to order.
        If I may refer to the ZFM's that I have seen illustrated as inrunners, has anyone attempted an outrunner configuation which may increase torque for a given size motor and also reduce the chance of magnets coming loose?
        In reference to Drew's comment, I am frequently dissappointed by the lack of explanations with regard to the intended features of these many different devices that people are presenting particularly COP or at least their opinion on what they believe the COP to be and what they base such numbers on. And with all the work required to build these machines it doesn't seem it would take much more work to add a brake with a lever arm against a bathroom scale (whatever) to determine torque and therefore horsepower output presuming the rpm, being easier to determine, is also known. I don't mind putting considerable effort into replicating devices, but I hate to "re-invent the wheel" by doing work to get some information that is already known. If they wish for such bits of information to be kept propietary it would be nice to say so, so we know some pieces to the puzzle are missing. For example, I built Tom Bearden's MEG some years ago (the core was $150) and it seemed to work but nowhere near COP 1. Then later I read that it wasn't expected to be overunity, not to pick on Tom Bearden in particular, sorry Tom.
        I hope we can do better by building on each other's successes and failures as well. Sometimes knowing what doesn't work has considerable value to save others the trouble of not duplicating futile efforts.
        Hi Richard --

        My Zero Force Motor did not have any trouble with the magnets flying off. They were glued on with some special epoxy that has a holding strength up to 15,000 RPM. So far my motor has only reached around 10,000 RPM and that was when it was running at 50 volts on the power input. Building these machines are a learning experience and they do take some money to do them the correct way. I will tell you that none of the ZFM building information has been kept a secret for at least the last full year. It has been posted here in this Forum Thread thanks to Paul (ZPDM) who started this topic here. Over-unity or a COP equal to 1 or greater is really a different way at looking at things on how you can change the way the power that is used into different forms and then find ways to feed the wasted power back into the running the motor or device. The more people we have duplicating these devices the more input we will have on what's the best way to improve upon these devices. This is due to everyone will not do the experiment exactly the same even though the guidelines on building this machine have been set forth in this forum thread and in the 2017 Energy & Technology Conference presentation on the Zero Force Motor.

        -- James

        Comment


        • Originally posted by James McDonald View Post
          Hi Richard --

          My Zero Force Motor did not have any trouble with the magnets flying off. They were glued on with some special epoxy that has a holding strength up to 15,000 RPM. So far my motor has only reached around 10,000 RPM and that was when it was running at 50 volts on the power input. Building these machines are a learning experience and they do take some money to do them the correct way. I will tell you that none of the ZFM building information has been kept a secret for at least the last full year. It has been posted here in this Forum Thread thanks to Paul (ZPDM) who started this topic here. Over-unity or a COP equal to 1 or greater is really a different way at looking at things on how you can change the way the power that is used into different forms and then find ways to feed the wasted power back into the running the motor or device. The more people we have duplicating these devices the more input we will have on what's the best way to improve upon these devices. This is due to everyone will not do the experiment exactly the same even though the guidelines on building this machine have been set forth in this forum thread and in the 2017 Energy & Technology Conference presentation on the Zero Force Motor.

          -- James
          Thanks James, this is exactly the sort of effort I had hoped for when starting the thread and it is unfortunate I missed the various replications. Going back to Drew's question, what is this practical for, well what is any of this stuff practical for? Sorry, sorry, I would say the ZFM is conceptually a very close cousin of the window motor, both running off lines of force that aren't supposed to do anything much. A well built window motor is a high torque for input power motor, as is the ZFM. Doing just some super glue masking tape type experiments I saw some strange behaviour with the ZFM, namely a more narrow, lesser inductance coil, ran it more efficiently than a larger coil. I suppose the magnetic fields of the very strong neos end up tripping over each others toes as it were, I don't really understand it. I thought initially the iron block in the center might have been just to make it easy to place the neos precisely but it may have some function of smearing or focusing the neos magnetic fields to run better. I can tell you this, when using identical strong neos if you set them up first as an SSG then second turn them sideways so they are tangential (this is almost the ZFM except instead of flipping the coil you flip the magnets sideways) it runs maybe 50% more efficient. I didn't track the magnitude of the radiant spike in these set ups which would need to be done especially if considering the ssg as a timing device for the radiant. However, considering efficiency of rotation for input power, with strong magnets flipping them sideways shows improvement.
          Ciao, talk to you later, Paul

          Comment


          • Thank you James!

            That's what I had interpreted the videos and trials in this forum to infer. I quickly became confused, though, by the mis-information about the ZFM from other sites/users.

            -- Drew

            Comment


            • If your trying to understand why a Lenzless motor would be useful watch Peter lindemanns motor secrets 1. He details the maths and practical aspects.
              Cant spend it when your dead.

              Comment


              • Originally posted by Richard
                Thank you, James.
                I was at the 2016 Conference and had the great privilege of meeting John Bedini. I was unable to attend this year, unfortunately.
                Based on your experience and understanding of this motor would you consider it realistic to test it with a brake applied to the shaft with a torque measuring device to indicate torque and rpm information while monitoring the input wattage to determine efficiency/COP? And if so, would you expect COP>1 with a properly built ZFM?

                Using;
                HP=(2PIxft/lbxrpm)33000 and 746 watts per horsepower @ 100% efficiency
                Hi Richard --

                Since I do not own a torque testing brake it would be hard for me to get this information to properly calculate the Horse Power of a Zero Force Motor with the same formula that Engineer James Watt used to calculate the horse power of steam engines. I wish I could do a real torque test other then putting my fingers on the shaft to slow down the motor and record the current but that would not tell me the foot pounds of force applied. What I can tell you is the Zero Force Motor draws very little current when running at speed. That current increases as force is applied to the shaft but when the force is release the Zero Force Motor quickly goes back to the maximum speed for the input voltage applied and back to the original current draw on the power source. Since this motor coil has no iron core in the toroid shaped coil it is run by makes it is a very unique motor. I am currently going to do another experiment this weekend that should increase the torque of my Zero Force Motor. What I can tell you is the size and strength of the magnets used to going to have a big impact on the torque the motor has. Until I can do I real torque test with a torque testing brake I would be only guessing if the motor would reach 100% efficiency.

                -- James

                Comment


                • Originally posted by Richard
                  Too bad you are not in the Lost Angeles area. I would like to help set up a torque testing brake since you have already done most of the work. Besides car brakes there are some nice bicycle disk brake systems that could be adapted for the smaller applications.
                  I wonder if there is anyone near me doing this type of work and might be interested in some help.
                  Hi Richard --

                  Maybe once we are ready to do this torque test you could give us a few ways to do it and tell us what to buy so
                  we can get good measurement data. As far as I know only two of us have done a true replication of the original Zero
                  Force Motor. I am in Maryland and the other guy is in Vermont. We had all three Zero Force Motors lined up in the Vendor
                  room at the 2017 Energy & Technology Conference. You missed a good conference.

                  -- James

                  Comment


                  • This is a simple and inexpensive way to get a pretty good read for these projects:

                    Aaron Murakami





                    You never change things by fighting the existing reality. To change something, build a new model that makes the existing model obsolete. ― Richard Buckminster Fuller

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by Richard
                      Sure, James.
                      If you would like to help me out I would like to build the motor. Can you recommend the best source for plans? And if you recommend a source of plans for me, are those the plans you followed? Any deviations? What is your shaft diameter? If I can duplicate yours exactly, it would make comparisons and note comparing easier. If anyone has a few extra bucks (I don't at the moment) ceramic bearings are nice; over $100 each.
                      Hi Richard --

                      You can purchase the video of the ZFM presentation and all the notes of the presentation along with a compiled PDF book
                      from Aaron's website. The PDF book and the PDF slides are the easiest way to get all the information to build a ZFM without going
                      through this ZFM thread and taking notes of all the details. I will tell you that I did change a two things and now I have to change a
                      third item because of one of the changes I made to the design. The coil on the original ZFM which has two sides that measure 2.5 ohms each. These two coils of wire have two 75 to 80 foot of AWG 20 magnet wire on each side. So each side will have 2 coils. This is the first thing that I changed and this change has caused me to change another item due to the ZFM has to have matching components. The change I made was to make each side 3 ohms of wire but my wire was AWG 18 magnet wire single strand. By doing this since the wire size is bigger and the ohms per foot of wire is less so you need 450 foot of AWG 18 magnet wire to make 3 ohms. So both sides of the toroid shaped coil is 450 foot of wire making the series resistance 6.0 ohms. By doing this the coil becomes thicker and wider. The magnets have to be stronger and bigger to cut through all those wires. The original ZFM has a round magnet size of N42 1 inch wide by 3/8 inch thick. My magnet is a magnet of the similar size to an SG machine magnet which in this case is a N52 2 inches long by 1 inch wide by 1/2 inch thick. My shaft size is 0.499 inches. The original shaft size is 0.375. My rotor is 2 inches long and around 1.5 inches wide with radius corners. It is made from 99.5% pure iron. The original rotor is magnetic steel or iron mixed cube which is 1.3 inches by 1.3 inches by 1.0 inch with radius corners. I used a 3 inch PVC pipe to mount my reed switches onto. The original used a L shaped form to mount the reed switches on at the 0 degree and 90 degree locations. This L shaped mount had some adjustment for the reeds and the mount for moving it closer to the timing wheel magnets which are mounted at 0 degrees and 180 degrees. The exact type of bearings the original has I do not know. I used Dodge pillow block bearing which are rated for 12,500 RPM. They make a better rated bearing which is rated for 14,500 RPM. The drive circuit is a Bedini Cole circuit. Since you cannot buy the BJT audio transistors used in the original ZFM you can use the SG machine BJT transistor with its companion PNP transistor. I used a higher grade transistor above the ones used in the SG machine with it's companion PNP transistor. The original has all this mounted on Plexiglas and I have mounted all my items on wood. The biggest thing you need to pay attention to is the mounting of the bearings. The mounting of the bearing has to be machined so they do not bind. The pillow block bearings allow you to make manual adjustments which is the easy way to get a ZFM setup going but they are a pain to adjust. One other detail is you must buy an epoxy that can hold the magnets onto the rotor at speeds up to 15,000 RPM.

                      -- James
                      Last edited by James McDonald; 07-21-2017, 04:29 AM.

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by Richard
                        Thank you for the details, James. I will get the e-book. What is the epoxy type? Have you noticed the bearings getting warm after longer runs? If you know the temperature rise and the weight of the bearings we could figure that loss in our efficiency calculations.
                        From two videos I have seen so far they show 56% efficiency and 76% efficiency. That's disappointing considering it's the same range as any other motor. Does someone expect it to be possible to exceed COP>1 with the ZFM with more tweeking? If so, based on what information? What makes this motor particularly interesting?
                        Hi Richard --

                        The epoxy type is "Loctite 334" which is a high strength epoxy designed specifically for applications in securing magnets.
                        http://na.henkel-adhesives.com/produ...=8797886152705
                        I have not noticed any bearing heat up even after an 1 hour run of the Zero Force Motor. This may be due to the size and type
                        of bearings they are and how they are cased in a metal holder. While the Zero Force Motor is running cold air is being blown
                        out of the front of my Zero Force Motor build. Everything that I touch around the motor is either colder then room temperature
                        or just a little above room temperature. It depends on how far the part you are taking a temperature reading off of is from the stream of cold air coming from the motor. I do not know about these videos on other builds of the Zero Force Motor. To date there has been only two Zero Force Motor builds acknowledged as good replications of the Bedini Zero Force Motor. Please provide the links to these videos. I also would like to know what input voltage these two motors were running on and at what RPM did they max out at? As to date I have run my motor at an input voltage of 50 volts DC and Yaro has run his motor at a 60 volt DC input. The RPM of the machine did not increase much from 50 volts to 60 volts and this may be because of the switching speed of the reeds. They are switching On and Off so fast that they become almost steady On at these high RPM's. So some improvements can be made here by switching out reed switches to a more digital type input whether it be Hall sensors or a total different approach not using magnets and going with an input PWM pulse from a Micro-controller. I am not going to speculate on a COP>1 at this point in time since no true brake testing has been done on any of the three Zero Force Motor replications. To answer your last question you may have to do a lot of research on this if you do not believe the answer. The Zero Force Motor is modeled around the way the Earth itself operates. The magnetic fields of the motor are the same as the magnetic fields of the Earth itself. This is what makes this motor particularly interesting.

                        -- James
                        Last edited by James McDonald; 07-22-2017, 02:00 AM.

                        Comment


                        • Thank you Yaro for your presentation, I watched it the other night. I posted more pages of notes people didn't seem to have yesterday , but seems board moderator doesn't want to approve my post so you can all see them ...............not sure if you will even see this one telling you about it! ....wtf......

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by Davy Oneness View Post
                            Thank you Yaro for your presentation, I watched it the other night. I posted more pages of notes people didn't seem to have yesterday , but seems board moderator doesn't want to approve my post so you can all see them ...............not sure if you will even see this one telling you about it! ....wtf......
                            Approval isn't required for any member to post.

                            I simply gave you my opinion on the notes as a reply to your post.
                            Aaron Murakami





                            You never change things by fighting the existing reality. To change something, build a new model that makes the existing model obsolete. ― Richard Buckminster Fuller

                            Comment


                            • Thanks for your reply Aaron.

                              "Approval isn't required for any member to post.
                              I simply gave you my opinion on the notes as a reply to your post."

                              That has been my experience in the past, but yesterday it flashed on screen "waiting to be approved by moderator" and I still don't see it listed anywhere on the main bedini forum thread list, so if you have replied, can you please share a link for me here so I can find it?

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by Davy Oneness View Post
                                Thanks for your reply Aaron.

                                "Approval isn't required for any member to post.
                                I simply gave you my opinion on the notes as a reply to your post."

                                That has been my experience in the past, but yesterday it flashed on screen "waiting to be approved by moderator" and I still don't see it listed anywhere on the main bedini forum thread list, so if you have replied, can you please share a link for me here so I can find it?
                                Hi Davy, I can see them here: http://www.energyscienceforum.com/sh...7097#post27097

                                John K.

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