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  • Originally posted by jamesgray3rd View Post
    Hi Nityesh

    Very nice...The symmetry of your layout always amazes me...very intuitive. Again, the batteries seem to want to seek a balance...very good work!
    Thankyou, Both sides of the circuit are mirror images of each other. Yes you are right the batteries are balancing out, not just the voltages, but the impedance of the battery pack's would be equalizing too.

    jamesgray3rd
    Nice coil winding machine.

    Kind
    Regards
    Nityesh Schanderbeck

    Comment


    • Hi Nityesh

      Thank you. It really does a satisfactory job on coils.

      The ongoing result of you switch is very interesting, and encouraging.
      Best Regards ~ James, Somewhere In Idaho

      Comment




      • Hi guys,
        This has been a great discussion thread. I shall order the TS DVD in the new year. I shall be travelling for a while and do not want post sitting on my doorstep while I am away. I cannot seem to find out the method of international shipping.

        Anyway, I seem to remember JB stating on another forum that the circuit using the Tandy audio transformers should work! I had trouble getting these so I substituted the 3055's with IRFP460's and used first tc4427 gate drives pulsed from the 3524. As the 3524 has a 5% built in safety feature to prevent pulse crossover, I eventually changed to tc4426 - inverted pulses which enables the ability to obtain a 50-50 pulse outcome. Diverting for a moment, I refer to Stanley Meyers' voltage intensifier circuit. The relevant components here for me are the Choke and flyback diode. To my mind, this is the source of energy that charges the water capacitor. So how does Meyers' fit in? Like JB, he uses a current free source to charge his capacitor. But, he was doing it before the TS.

        To my mind the key to understanding how the TS operated was understanding as much as can be deduced from the reaction of the batteries. This is where all the action is taking place. As with Meyers' capacitor. There is a sensitive sequence occurring that will eventually condition the battery. But, more importantly, the sequence creates a surfeit of current between the alternating sets of batteries. The sequence that I worked out, which had to be load dependent, was voltage pulse to battery immediately prior to transition of parallel to series. Therefore, using 12v batteries we get the flyback from an 18v charge through a charged inductor = no current. As the batteries are preparing to discharge, this has the effect of pulsing the sulfate ions causing them to think that they should in fact be moving in the charging direction. However, electrons travel 100 times faster than the sulfate ions, and the current starts to appear at the negative pole ready to be used. Stuck in the system is the current stored in the inductor which is already preparing to discharge into the circuit. This discharge repels or restricts that initial surge from battery swapping from parallel to series. So we now have a situation where as the inductor/load current is reversing and simultaneously into the battery, the current in the battery is being repelled back and in conjunction with the ions commences a charging cycle within the battery and, the reversing current into the series batteries, now becomes the charging current into the inductor/load! The process becomes cyclical - back and forth!! This is why JB has stated that a power flow pervades across the Tesla Switch. There would appear to always be current flowing in the circuit but not into or out of the battery!! Consequently, battery voltages can rise substantially if no controller or load matching output exists. It should be now easy to see why Tom Beardon was talking in nanoseconds to achieve switching success.

        This is just my 10 cents worth, and I give it in the hope that it will help some of the subscribers' to this thread focus on understanding some of the physics involved during the switching process that seems to be holding some people back. Allowing them to concentrate on their switching accuracy.

        Thanks for reading, cheers

        Dwane
        Last edited by Dwane Dibley; 12-08-2015, 06:00 AM.

        Comment


        • Hi Dwane, interesting analysis. Thanks for sharing.

          John K.

          Comment


          • Originally posted by John_Koorn View Post
            Hi Dwane, interesting analysis. Thanks for sharing.

            John K.
            Its my pleasure. When I first started looking at the Tesla Switch a few years back, I spent a lot of time trying to get the switching correct for what the "original" circuit suggested. I spent some long hours analysing Tom Beardon's comment, and coupled to the raw facts regarding the difference in speed within the lead acid battery of electrons and ions, it just became a matter of logically tracing what I presumed to be the most likely outcome given the facts.

            I have moved away from the TS somewhat and I am developing a non mechanical outcome from the "Free Energy Generator" which in its prototype form will charge 200,000uf of capacitors within a second up to 50volts. That has a dangerously high joule rating on discharge at 100 us!! I am also looking to convert this improved FEG into a plasma driven drive.

            Anyway, too many hours have been lost by people stressing over the switching. By tracing the operation at its fundamental level, this should assist with understanding the switch requirements, if not the actual switching techniques or components. To my mind the most useful applications for the TS are those that require a steady state/fixed load. There are plenty of those around.

            I suppose it is sunny in Melbourne today?

            Cheers

            Dwane

            Comment


            • hey all,
              I made the board from the tesla switch dvd by etching the board and drilling then soldering the components on to the board, had a play with diode because the amazingly the diode is unavailable i have sb5100's coming from hong kong but in Australia i tried jaycar for a few types and found in5822, 40v schottki diode with 150mv drop, also tried the normal in5408 which has a 600mv drop and tried some from a gridtie machine that died which were a 400mv drop. i noticed alot with the doide changes so much ill relook the diode in all the other bedini machines or devices ive made to see the spike more, not only more spike transferred but fastest switching and keeping the spike and an increase with the advantage with the least voltage drops in the device there was move voltage at the load pins. while im also waiting on h11d1's to come over from china ive gone with a 4n25, 4n26 to try for now, and at the moment even though i got so far in learning this device waiting for the right components, im sad, i thought ive done everything else to the letter, i made the matching transistor box so i can check the transistors for close readings and i matched the in5822's and the 2x 330 ohm's for the two opto resistors and i have one side that seems to be working more then the other which i believe to be battery 4, ive quadtruple checked the tracks and solder to see if anything is not as it should be and fixed 2-3 things and resoldered a few diodes because id touch one and things would change on the scope and then i found battery 3 connection wasnt very good so fixed that, new 2.5mm flex with new alligator clip, ive used 4x new 9v batteries and used 4x 24v nicad drill batteries i still have to rotate the batteries around every day by one, 1->2 2->4 4->3 3->1 and it will go off again for a day, ive even had fun with a rc size ufo motor on the load and ran the oscillator off the generator side of the motor just had to jump start the motor from the load pins with a 9v, still had to move the batteries around, then i though id use 6v 100ah gel cells in 12v banks that were closely charged same thingthe led on the right side is lit well the left side will flash quickly and even flash when the other side flashed so both come on together but the left was supposed to only be on and the left is much brighter, the opto's start off at the top 3v i think the second one 2v then 1v so because of this opto and the voltage drops inside then will this result in reduced turning on for the last opto and if i wanted to is there a way of boosting the voltage a bit like 500 mv on the last one to make sure its turning on right, i was going to change out the 5v reg and see about an adjustable one to change it to 6v or 7v? ive scoped the opto's and transistors im not happy with the left side middle transistor in that im no sure its opening and shutting to make the meters show (12v/24v) where the right one i can see it well. i used all new components from jaycar for optos and mjl's and still unhappy, i put an led 12v downlight on the load while i had the 24v nicads on and the left side gets the led to flash 4-5 times while on that side then a strong pulse for the right side, the scope on the load ac rectifier was seeing the spike nicely

              if anyone some ideas to check while im waiting my 4 -6 weeks for the optos and sb5100 (5amp 100v) im all ears

              thank you
              phillip

              keen as mustard for the solar tracker 5 160amp 24v to chanrge my 64 x 6v 130/225ah battery banks from my 9x 200w 24v panels

              Comment


              • Originally posted by pjreed01! View Post
                hey all,
                I made the board from the tesla switch dvd by etching the board and drilling then soldering the components on to the board, had a play with diode because the amazingly the diode is unavailable i have sb5100's coming from hong kong but in Australia i tried jaycar for a few types and found in5822, 40v schottki diode with 150mv drop, also tried the normal in5408 which has a 600mv drop and tried some from a gridtie machine that died which were a 400mv drop. i noticed alot with the doide changes so much ill relook the diode in all the other bedini machines or devices ive made to see the spike more, not only more spike transferred but fastest switching and keeping the spike and an increase with the advantage with the least voltage drops in the device there was move voltage at the load pins. while im also waiting on h11d1's to come over from china ive gone with a 4n25, 4n26 to try for now, and at the moment even though i got so far in learning this device waiting for the right components, im sad, i thought ive done everything else to the letter, i made the matching transistor box so i can check the transistors for close readings and i matched the in5822's and the 2x 330 ohm's for the two opto resistors and i have one side that seems to be working more then the other which i believe to be battery 4, ive quadtruple checked the tracks and solder to see if anything is not as it should be and fixed 2-3 things and resoldered a few diodes because id touch one and things would change on the scope and then i found battery 3 connection wasnt very good so fixed that, new 2.5mm flex with new alligator clip, ive used 4x new 9v batteries and used 4x 24v nicad drill batteries i still have to rotate the batteries around every day by one, 1->2 2->4 4->3 3->1 and it will go off again for a day, ive even had fun with a rc size ufo motor on the load and ran the oscillator off the generator side of the motor just had to jump start the motor from the load pins with a 9v, still had to move the batteries around, then i though id use 6v 100ah gel cells in 12v banks that were closely charged same thingthe led on the right side is lit well the left side will flash quickly and even flash when the other side flashed so both come on together but the left was supposed to only be on and the left is much brighter, the opto's start off at the top 3v i think the second one 2v then 1v so because of this opto and the voltage drops inside then will this result in reduced turning on for the last opto and if i wanted to is there a way of boosting the voltage a bit like 500 mv on the last one to make sure its turning on right, i was going to change out the 5v reg and see about an adjustable one to change it to 6v or 7v? ive scoped the opto's and transistors im not happy with the left side middle transistor in that im no sure its opening and shutting to make the meters show (12v/24v) where the right one i can see it well. i used all new components from jaycar for optos and mjl's and still unhappy, i put an led 12v downlight on the load while i had the 24v nicads on and the left side gets the led to flash 4-5 times while on that side then a strong pulse for the right side, the scope on the load ac rectifier was seeing the spike nicely

                if anyone some ideas to check while im waiting my 4 -6 weeks for the optos and sb5100 (5amp 100v) im all ears

                thank you
                phillip

                keen as mustard for the solar tracker 5 160amp 24v to chanrge my 64 x 6v 130/225ah battery banks from my 9x 200w 24v panels

                Hi Phillip --

                I have 780 of the Diodes Incorporated SB700 Diodes just for your information. I purchase a reel of 1200 about 1 year ago from the factory Diodes Incorporated has them made at. They were a 17 week lead time and you had to order a full reel to get them. I built the Tesla Switch also.

                -- James

                Comment


                • my tesla switch sb5100 diodes have arrived and they have a 300mv drop and not 150mv drop like the one in the switch currently and my h11d1's have arrived but i havent retook a picture of the switch since changing the ics over, its still more right than left when it switches
                  Attached Files

                  Comment


                  • Hi Folks,

                    What are good batteries to use? NiCads are difficult to come by and Alkaline batteries are not really rechargeable,though JohnB mention those in the DVD. Are NiMH batteries suitable replacement/alternative?

                    Thanks,

                    teej_seker

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by teej_seeker View Post
                      Hi Folks,

                      What are good batteries to use? NiCads are difficult to come by and Alkaline batteries are not really rechargeable,though JohnB mention those in the DVD. Are NiMH batteries suitable replacement/alternative?

                      Thanks,

                      teej_seker
                      JB said that LiFePO4 would be a good battery to use. You want a battery that can absorb a large current spike. I have plans to try Li-Ion as well.

                      John K.

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by erwei
                        Hi Folks,my tesla switch pcb have arrived and i have test it for some days,i use 16 1.2v NiCd battery and design a switch for switch 136/245 to 135/246 or135/246 to 136/245. i find the battery's voltage get down all two ways。


                        nice looking boards erwei. I'm not sure what your numbers mean. 136/245 etc...

                        John K.

                        Comment


                        • Hi guy's,

                          Any PCB/boards available for purchasing?

                          Regards,
                          Ray

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by Nityesh Schnaderbeck View Post
                            I watched "The Bedini Tesla Switch" DVD Disk2 again, saw how John Bedini connected, the extra 4 LEDs, 2 red and 2 yellow, (not shown on the white board) on his working demonstration. The LEDs are bypassing, the diodes on the negatives of the batteries and the reverse biased LED. I have added those LEDs in my 4 Battery Bedini Tesla Switch. Shown below.



                            The 4 LEDs are flashing like on John Bedini's demonstration. Now I can see the switch switching, from the indicator LEDs.

                            Here are some results so far. Running without a load.

                            B1 B2 B3 B4 Time
                            4.85V 4.98V 4.98V 5.01V 3:00am
                            4.86V 5.01V 4.99V 5.01V 3:24am
                            4.86V 5.07V 5.01V 4.95V 9:05am
                            4.85V 5.08V 5.01V 4.94V 10:08am
                            4.86V 5.08V 5.01V 4.95V 10:50am
                            4.87V 5.08V 5.01V 4.96V 11:57am
                            4.88V 5.03V 5.01V 4.96V 1:56pm
                            4.84V 5.06V 5.01V 4.96V 2:22pm
                            Now I can see all 4 batteries changing voltages. That is a very good sign.



                            If or when I get this 4 Battery Bedini Tesla Switch working, then I can apply the same, mods to the " Tri-Symmetrical 3 battery Tesla switch"


                            Most
                            Kindest
                            Regards
                            Nityesh Schnaderbeck
                            Hi Nityesh,

                            Great work!
                            Do you have these updated diagrams available?

                            Cheers,
                            Ray

                            Comment


                            • yes we have them available. send an email to service@teslagenx.com

                              Tom C
                              Originally posted by Mundo81 View Post
                              Hi guy's,

                              Any PCB/boards available for purchasing?

                              Regards,
                              Ray


                              experimental Kits, chargers and solar trackers

                              Comment


                              • Salve a tutti qualcuno mi puņ dare un consiglio cosa posso comprare il dvd o book . Per conoscere bene il funzionamento del tesla swicth con le 4 batterie. Che sia possibilmente in lingua italiana. Grazie.

                                Comment

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