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  • Originally posted by RB176 View Post
    Hi Richard been busy last few days and I didn’t have a chance to see your reply. First off I just ordered Aaron’s book and video’s today so hopefully it will give me some more understanding. When I used the 30kv ceramic disk caps I just had those cap leads grounded under the plug boot and to a washer underneath the spark plug. It did enhance the spark but it couldn’t keep up with the rpms at full throttle and also had some burn the wire off. I never tried to use I diode and go from low voltage + positive to high voltage + on my 3.0 olm internal Bosch coil. My understanding it wouldn’t work for a battery breaker ignition points coil/condenser system, although I never tried it. I did just order some HVRT 200 20kv 30mA diodes to try out. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks Jeremiah
    Hi Jermiah,
    Those 20kV 30mA are too feeble for our Plasma Ignition application a typical rating would be minimum 20kV, 3A. those which you are using are typically used for Charging a low Power application of Charging a Capacitor or Voltage Multiplier(Cockroft-walton )and good at that..
    Rgds,
    Faraday88.
    'Wisdom comes from living out of the knowledge.'

    Comment


    • Originally posted by rokan View Post
      It is a Nology coil so it should hold up I would think. What rating diodes should I use? Do you have a part number that will work the best so I can order the right ones?
      Will microwave diodes work? Can they handle the power?
      Thanks,
      Ron
      Hi Ron,
      I guess you can use these Diodes.. reason: In the microwave oven power stage these diodes are used in Voltage Multiplying action(half-wave Voltage doubler) along with the Magnetron during both the cycles of the input AC Voltage and more importantly because they work as a Series-Resonant charge pump to double the excitation Voltage for the magnetron. which is just what our kind of application demand in the Plasma Ignition.
      Rgds,
      Faraday88.
      Last edited by Faraday88; 07-20-2018, 08:53 AM.
      'Wisdom comes from living out of the knowledge.'

      Comment


      • Originally posted by rokan View Post
        It is a Nology coil so it should hold up I would think. What rating diodes should I use? Do you have a part number that will work the best so I can order the right ones?
        Will microwave diodes work? Can they handle the power?
        Thanks,
        Ron
        The coil should work fine - didn't know it was from Nology.

        These work perfect: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...SIN=B01HZZ273K

        I have used quite a few of those and have never had one fail with the plasma ignition.

        Click available from these sellers link on that page to see a few buy options. They're $5 something each and are still quite a wait - you can look in Amazon for quicker ones at higher prices. You can get them for around $2 each if you want to wait for 1-2 months to come from Hong Kong in Ebay.

        Microwave diodes will work for a short time then you'll blow them out quickly.
        Aaron Murakami





        You never change things by fighting the existing reality. To change something, build a new model that makes the existing model obsolete. ― Richard Buckminster Fuller

        Comment


        • Originally posted by Faraday88 View Post
          Hi Jermiah,
          Those 20kV 30mA are too feeble for our Plasma Ignition application a typical rating would be minimum 20kV, 3A. those which you are using are typically used for Charging a low Power application of Charging a Capacitor or Voltage Multiplier(Cockroft-walton )and good at that..
          Rgds,
          Faraday88.

          These are at hvstuff.com

          3A 20kV 100nS High Voltage Diode HV Rectifier High Frequency $20.78

          3A 30kV 100nS High Voltage Diode HV Rectifier High Frequency $25.33

          Richard Gieser

          Comment


          • Over thinking??

            Originally posted by rokan View Post
            It is a Nology coil so it should hold up I would think. What rating diodes should I use? Do you have a part number that will work the best so I can order the right ones?
            Will microwave diodes work? Can they handle the power?
            Thanks,
            Ron
            Maybe I am over thinking this??
            I was thinking that I needed to make an array of between 45-60kv diodes for each cylinder. That is a lot of diodes to make an array of if they are only 1kv.
            BUT, since the diodes connect to the positive side of the coil, am I right to now think that I don't need 45-60kv worth of diodes connected together? But maybe only a 10kv maximum or less? From maybe 1A - 10A?

            All input help will be greatly appreciated,
            Thanks,
            Ron

            Comment


            • Can I just use 1 of the 20kv you listed per plug or do I still need to series about 3 of them together?

              Comment


              • Originally posted by rokan View Post
                Maybe I am over thinking this??
                I was thinking that I needed to make an array of between 45-60kv diodes for each cylinder. That is a lot of diodes to make an array of if they are only 1kv.
                BUT, since the diodes connect to the positive side of the coil, am I right to now think that I don't need 45-60kv worth of diodes connected together? But maybe only a 10kv maximum or less? From maybe 1A - 10A?

                All input help will be greatly appreciated,
                Thanks,
                Ron
                Before these HV radio switching diodes were this affordable, most of us made and used long strings of diodes made from 6A100 (1 amp 1000 volt) diodes. Worked great, but took up a lot of space and is time consuming to solder them all together. I used to pay $25 for EACH diode when I found the single large hv diodes - now they're only a few dollars each.

                The diode I showed is your solution. You only need ONE for each cylinder exactly as I showed in the diagram.

                20kv 2amps is their rating and those are enough for almost any application.

                Watch this: https://youtu.be/bqNVH6LM4W0?t=33m1s

                The green wire is connected straight to the + of the ignition coil primary. Then you see it being spliced out to 4 separate diodes and the other end of each diode goes to the top of each plug. Mount your diodes in some little plastic box or something, what I have is NOT the way to do it - that was a quick setup for testing. Those diodes are EXACTLY what I linked to - 20kv 2amps.

                https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...SIN=B01HZZ273K
                Aaron Murakami





                You never change things by fighting the existing reality. To change something, build a new model that makes the existing model obsolete. ― Richard Buckminster Fuller

                Comment


                • Originally posted by Aaron Murakami View Post
                  This is the exact magnets I used: http://www.magnetizerproducts.com/products.php#autogas - that is my website. Polarity is opposite between fuel and air, you can see the red blue. I don't recall which is which.
                  what about on the cooling system? have you ever tried magnets there to any effect?

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by Faraday88 View Post
                    Hi RB176,
                    Extremely sorry for the delayed response I had issues with the up loading of the pics earlier in the week so...
                    hope you bare with it..
                    Here it is for your reference.[ATTACH=CONFIG]7002[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]7003[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]7004[/ATTACH]
                    Rgds,
                    Faraday88.
                    In the schematic pic, the switch location - wouldn't it be on the -ve leg/side of the primary?

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by heysoundude View Post
                      what about on the cooling system? have you ever tried magnets there to any effect?
                      On my Subaru, I believe I used it on the radiator hose. It prevents scaling if you use tap water - distilled is best so you never have to worry about it.

                      The magnets for preventing scaling or descaling is quite pronounced - especially if you examine boiler pipes after, etc. you should see some testimonials on the website.
                      Aaron Murakami





                      You never change things by fighting the existing reality. To change something, build a new model that makes the existing model obsolete. ― Richard Buckminster Fuller

                      Comment


                      • Hi All,

                        Originally posted by Gary Hammond View Post
                        ..............................The plasma ignition is definitely going on my Bradley GT very soon and then maybe even the fogger. The Bradley already has a MSD 6A box and hall effect pickup installed, so all I need to add are the diodes. Plus it's electronically fuel injected with dash tuneable control module and an air/fuel ratio meter, so I can experiment with lean burn as well.
                        Had the engine out of the Bradley for a while now to access the fuel tank. I needed to add a bottom fuel outlet to the tank, relocate the external fuel pump, hook the normal tank vent back up, block off the vent in the filler cap, remove the low pressure filter ahead of the pump and replace it with a high pressure filter after the pump. I did all this to cure a vapor lock problem it was having in hot weather. That and a fuel spillage problem from the filler cap when the tank was full. (Ruined a paint job.)

                        Got every thing back together today and installed the plasma ignition as well. Took it for a rest drive this evening and it runs better than ever. Pulls strong all the way to 6000 RPM. Leaned out the mixture slightly, but if I go too far lean it bogs on initial launch at part throttle.

                        The engine starts very quickly and there is no hint of vapor lock!

                        Comment


                        • i seen your video on making a old datsun that had been converted to a electronic ignition by the previous owner and working on a car with a distributor is FAR easier then working on the new multi coil cars of today do you have a set of plans for a multi coil car being i own a 1997 Thunderbird with the original 82,000 miles ( it had 62, thousand but i put 10 thousand miles on the car before it dawned on me that they added a extra digit on my odometer and that my cars mileage was far below what i had thought originally well i figured in a few years it would have its 20th birthday and be a classic so rather then drive it i parked it and used it maybe to put 5 miles on it a year if that at all id love to put in a plasma coil conversion but before i touch 1 wire does your plans cover a multi coil car ( in my Thunderbird case i need to run 2 msd boxes as if they were 2 separate 4 cylinder boxes)

                          Comment


                          • I don't think waste spark is as difficult to convert to plasma as people think, since the ECU is basically doing what the MSD CDI box was invented to do in the days of distributor cap/rotor anyways. (The cam and crank position sensors are what give ECUs information for spark, and they're probably much more accurate and reliable and less prone to drift out of "tune".)
                            If the plasma "event" occurs because of the diode between the primary +ve and secondary +ve, and your ignition system has multiple primaries and secondaries, then you'll need multiple diodes placed appropriately (4 in your case, 3 for a v6 and 2 for a 4cyl).
                            Further, you could need multiple capacitors (or consider voltage multipliers) across those multiple primaries....and for peaking capacitors, you might be able to place them across each pair of secondaries rather than on each plug.
                            Last edited by heysoundude; 07-26-2018, 10:00 AM.

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by Gary Hammond View Post
                              Hi All,



                              Had the engine out of the Bradley for a while now to access the fuel tank. I needed to add a bottom fuel outlet to the tank, relocate the external fuel pump, hook the normal tank vent back up, block off the vent in the filler cap, remove the low pressure filter ahead of the pump and replace it with a high pressure filter after the pump. I did all this to cure a vapor lock problem it was having in hot weather. That and a fuel spillage problem from the filler cap when the tank was full. (Ruined a paint job.)

                              Got every thing back together today and installed the plasma ignition as well. Took it for a rest drive this evening and it runs better than ever. Pulls strong all the way to 6000 RPM. Leaned out the mixture slightly, but if I go too far lean it bogs on initial launch at part throttle.

                              The engine starts very quickly and there is no hint of vapor lock!
                              Gary, that's awesome!

                              Besides the plasma, do you have any HHO or other water type of supplementation?

                              What is the leanest you can run it without overheating, etc.?
                              Aaron Murakami





                              You never change things by fighting the existing reality. To change something, build a new model that makes the existing model obsolete. ― Richard Buckminster Fuller

                              Comment


                              • Hi Aaron,

                                Originally posted by Aaron Murakami View Post
                                Gary, that's awesome!

                                Besides the plasma, do you have any HHO or other water type of supplementation?

                                What is the leanest you can run it without overheating, etc.?
                                Thanks

                                I haven't tried any fog supplementation yet. I have a 3500 watt gen set I'll probably try that on first.

                                I also haven't had a chance to check out how lean I can go, as it still needs a rich mixture to accelerate without hesitation from a standstill. On the open road, at higher speeds, I can lean it out a little more but haven't gone there yet. I'm enjoying the extra power too much!

                                Comment

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