Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Plasma Ignition | Plasma Jet Ignition

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Originally posted by Aaron Murakami View Post
    I haven't posted an update in a while. Yesterday, I finally received my 0 ohms resistance plug cables from Granatelli Motorsports. They have a ferrite ring on the cable for noise suppression.

    First, I'll change my non-resistor plugs again and the new ones, I'll probably cut off the whole ground strap. Install the cables and I might have to replace the ignition coil because the MSD I believe blew wire to plug #1 - so it couldn't fire properly and probably shorted inside, misfiring #1 still. I already have a 2nd coil so should be quick and easy. Once this is all set, I'll just test everything for a few days... then I'll do some mods to get plasma on all 4 plugs. I also received my 2nd ham radio diode so I will dedicated one diode per 2 plugs.

    Will post later.
    Exiting Aaron!!!
    I can't see WHY it won't work if both spark plugs per wasted spark coil is connecting to their respective HV positive terminals... (I think) the initial HV voltage rise on coil secondary initially has not so much to do with gap-R... but initially just with facing its own secondary coil negative output on the other side of a microscopic layer in the HV diode/s that has slammed shut - maybe while this is going on it feels or sees the other alternative path just before, during, or just as it flips its direction... (I think) it then only when it "calculates" its path of least resistance... wish I had a coil to check it out

    I've seen 2 and more plugs fire plasma at the same time from the same plasma cdi - anybody on this thread can do it with a cdi firing an HV POSITIVE output coil. (for negative firing coil maybe swapping cdi terminals on the coil LV side will make it fire positive). This is how we did it:

    Connect 30 1kV 6 amp diodes in series, with diode arrow bases pointing TO coil +LV & that end connected onto +LV, and diode arrow points pointing TO coil +HV & that end connected onto +HV. The cdi (+) output connects to coil +LV terminal and cdi (-) output connects to coil -LV terminal. Securely connect 2 zero resistance spark plugs center terminals to +HV output with equal lengths of at least #14 zero resistance wires. Securely connect each spark plug base with equal lengths of at least #14 zero resistance wires to -LV terminal.

    While still firing only single plugs on the bench we very soon chopped off the ground straps when we improved our cdi charge frequency and managed outputs past 240 Volts, cause in firing repetitively we saw it ALSO fired straight from spark plug center electrode to spark plug base rim - it seemed like the RE saw the slightest moisture or impurities in the gap in chose that bath over and above the ground strap... just seemed logical to then chop off the ground strap and rather give the plug center an equal distance plug base rim around the center electrode so RE can "choose" its best path for each firing itself. But the place on the rim which is fired is still influenced by which side of the plug base you clamped your LV terminal onto the plug base.

    Something we never tested or thought to test in firing multiple spark plugs at once, is to ad resistance in series with one spark plug in a pair to see if HV/RE will skip the one with the higher resistance, or at what ratio of extra resistance HV/RE will start skipping that spark plug. Eish!

    Can somebody that has got a plasma cdi running, just hookup 2 non-R spark plugs with center electrodes to coil HV (+) and coil Primary (-) to the spark plug bases. It will fire plasma on both plugs. Then in between ONE spark plug's center electrode connection and its HV-wire, ad resistors, until THAT spark plug in the pair no longer produce the plasma effect. I know that current divides through parallel loads, but it takes the path of least resistance - so we need to now how much extra resistance it took for RE to stop the RE flowing... there is a ratio or something... it might be either ON or OFF or there is a slight gradient... PLEASE

    Meanwhile - stay SAFE!!!

    Hope to have you all with us in 2015 for Aaron's coming wasted spark plasma break through!
    Last edited by Willem Coetzee; 01-22-2015, 12:53 PM.

    Comment


    • Plasma Ignition on Toyota Land Cruiser 1984

      I am back! Since last I have moved to a new country and bought a Toyota Land Cruiser 1984 (for easy ignition timing, room to experiment under the hood, and a lack of complicated electronics)

      Here is a video showing how I made the Plasma Ignition for the Cruiser.

      Along with the Plasma Ignition I grounded the engine top and block to the chassis and battery with a fat 4/0 welding cable.
      I set the ignition timing to TDC. I made the non R spark plug strapless.

      The car is now more responsive on throttle and no more black exhaust smoke. It runs cooler as well.
      It is still burning a lot of fuel, this has to to with the carburetor, witch has to be rebuild.

      My hunt for a HV+ ignition coil has not been great! If there are any researches that could link to a HV+ coil, it would for sure make me very happy! I understand that Plasma can be made for other things than just spark plugs!
      I have reversed hooked up my ignition coil as an attempt to get HV+, but the coils does not seem to like it over time. I own 2 broken coils!

      I have found a fogger that I thought could be fun with Plasma Ignition.http://www.amazon.com/Output-Fogger-..._schuc_p_img_5
      Anybody out there with any experience with foggers and plasma? I would love to learn more!

      Talking about vapors, this is a very good source. http://fuel-efficient-vehicles.org/energy-news/

      Thanks for now! I will be back!
      Last edited by ThankyouBedini; 02-20-2015, 10:52 AM.

      Comment


      • Originally posted by ThankyouBedini View Post
        I am back! Since last I have moved to a new country and bought a Toyota Land Cruiser 1984 (for easy ignition timing, room to experiment under the hood, and a lack of complicated electronics)

        Here is a video showing how I made the Plasma Ignition for the Cruiser.
        WELL DONE ThankyouBedini !!!

        To new readers of thread, ThankyouBedini provided yet another fantastic example of what is possible with the first-hand education from Aaron Murakami that Aaron presents to the world in his all-in-one tutorial package called 'Ignition Secrets'.

        @ ThankyouBedini and replicators:

        As exhaust emission temperature gets reduced, so should the influence on lambda sensors (oxygen sensors) and should give leaner fuel injection ratios - when plasma and other mods suggested by Aaron form a synergy, the LESS gadgetry would be needed to fool ECU's into leaning out air/fuel mixtures - the colder the operating exhaust temperature, and a cold fogger mist cooling air intake measured by the Intake Air Temperature sensor the leaner the OEM ECU might adjust air/fuel ratio.

        For carburetors, leaner air/fuel ratio is achieved with (1) IDLE air/fuel adjustment and (2) fuel jet size reduction.

        Idle jet/s in a carburetor supplies the amount of fuel needed for the engine to drive it self and all auxiliary devices. But its often forgotten HOW MUCH fuel is consumed by this!

        I found with even a small amount of PLASMA added to ignition, the Idle Mixture can be leaned out up to where the exhaust emission temperature rise from the new colder exhaust temperature, to the previous normal idle exhaust temperature - no drastic temperature spiking occur when very slowly and carefully leaning the adjustment taking the temperature back up to "normal".

        I insisted that my mechanic keep on leaning it further, but he point blank refused, because he could NOT believe how a carburetor engine could run that lean, not splatter, and idle smooth, and still not have wild temperature spiking.

        According to him, normal "good" ratio on FUEL INJECTED cars managed by ECU's measures around 4 out of 10 on his exhaust gas analyzer - my Uno (not having an ECU) with its OEM twin-barrel carb measured only ONE out of 10... I don't know what that air/fuel ratio is, but I know that exhaust temperatures starts dropping again as air:fuel mixture goes past 17:1.

        Plasma ignition helps to provide more power out of fuel, so instead of a sharp power loss in the "cool-run" lean air/fuel band, power/torque drops back to the normal range... the power drop will start a bit further on than in normal ignition.

        I don't know if my mechanic felt "pranked" and maybe just wanted to work out "how", but he said he'd like to have a "black box" like mine for his Toyota Hilux pickup.

        Any case...

        On my old Datsun Stanza before I had the Uno, I never had the privilege to install plasma ignition, but did get up to (1) Zero Resistance copper core spark plugs, (2) leaned-out fuel ratio, and (3) Cam Timing ADVANCE by 2 teeth (it had a timing chain and sprockets).

        The expected exhaust temperature rise of leaned air/fuel ratio somehow got cancelled by ADVANCING cam timing, and a bit more mJ available in the spark at NORMAL ignition timing. NO temperature increase above previous normal was experienced ever during all round driving. The car had lots more low-down torque, used less fuel, and even instantly started in winter after standing outside all night - not much chocking even needed. What a pleasure it would have been then if I could have added plasma to its ignition!

        I didn't get around to do the cam advance on the Uno before it was sold, but both these cars had 8 valves pushed by SOHC (Single Over Head Cams). Advancing the cam on a SOHC advance both intake and exhaust valves at the same time, so degrees valve over-lap stays standard.

        On our current car, a 2010 1.1 Huyndai Atos, I will hopefully managed to get all the above installed this year, so that the next generation mods (air nitrogen ionizing, mist, etc) can be done 2016.

        Yes, since plasma tech is not limited to only spark plugs, with the basics founded in the tech of aether energy extraction, it gives us a good entry education for even more advanced stuff, but we need to start somewhere
        Last edited by Willem Coetzee; 02-26-2015, 02:28 AM.

        Comment


        • Ignition Coil Polarity.

          Hi plasma lovers!
          For the longest time, I have been trying to get hold of an ignition coil that can deliver a HV (+) positive
          It has not been easy, but I know it must be possible!
          OK, so I have called Mallory, and they have told me on two different times that all of their coils are of HV - (negative).
          Aaron said that he has a coil from Mallory that is HV +, and here is a link to it.
          I have a similar looking coil, and that is HV negative.
          Now I am thinking that it must be possible to open the coil up and maybe change the polarity. IMG_3701.jpgIMG_3702.jpg
          The I want HV+ is because I want to experiment with booster caps, and very big plasma. I would be forever thankful if somebody could lead me to HV+.

          Comment


          • You can take the top of a accel super coil and change the polarity. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/acc-140001/overview/

            Comment


            • Originally posted by ThankyouBedini View Post
              Ignition Coil Polarity.

              Hi plasma lovers!
              For the longest time, I have been trying to get hold of an ignition coil that can deliver a HV (+) positive
              It has not been easy, but I know it must be possible!
              OK, so I have called Mallory, and they have told me on two different times that all of their coils are of HV - (negative).
              Aaron said that he has a coil from Mallory that is HV +, and here is a link to it.
              I have a similar looking coil, and that is HV negative.
              Now I am thinking that it must be possible to open the coil up and maybe change the polarity. [ATTACH=CONFIG]4536[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]4537[/ATTACH]
              The I want HV+ is because I want to experiment with booster caps, and very big plasma. I would be forever thankful if somebody could lead me to HV+.
              If you want HV+ and when you set it up like the Factory want you get a HV- just change the wires so it will be HV+. You can test this with a lead pencil by having the spark go through the lead and it will show you if it is coming from the ground and going to the coil or from the coil and going to ground.

              Comment


              • Max and Ron, are you guys suggesting that I hook up positive LV to negative LV (reversing the leads from the MDS) and then I will have a HV+?
                That does not work after a little while. The ignition coils does not like it, and start to click like it is shorted, not sure why.
                Can the trick be to rewind the primary?

                Comment


                • I did unwind the primary on the coil to the left on the picture above and then rewinded to the opposite direction, but that did not change any HV polarity.
                  Now I don't know what to do... but I really want to point the diodes towards the spark gap.
                  Last edited by ThankyouBedini; 03-17-2015, 08:15 PM.

                  Comment


                  • Have you just put the caps on and see what happens? they should work as + or -

                    Comment


                    • Here are some sparks I made today.
                      As you can see from the video the hook up to the coil is reverse. This way works, but it is not making plasma alone. The plasma comes with the booster capasitor, 440 v 50 uf.
                      When I put two caps in series, it is not getting any better, so one is enough. If I crank up the voltage to much then the ignition coil makes internal sparks, and I get no plasma on the sparkplug. To be able to make the golfball size sparks I have heard about but never seen, I have a feeling that I need a HV+ coil. If anyone knows where to buy a HV+ coil please let me know. I am more than willing to buy secrets regarding HV+!

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by ThankyouBedini View Post
                        Here are some sparks I made today.
                        As you can see from the video the hook up to the coil is reverse. This way works, but it is not making plasma alone. The plasma comes with the booster capasitor, 440 v 50 uf.
                        When I put two caps in series, it is not getting any better, so one is enough. If I crank up the voltage to much then the ignition coil makes internal sparks, and I get no plasma on the sparkplug. To be able to make the golfball size sparks I have heard about but never seen, I have a feeling that I need a HV+ coil. If anyone knows where to buy a HV+ coil please let me know. I am more than willing to buy secrets regarding HV+!
                        What is driving the coil?

                        Comment


                        • Thank you Maxc, I will get one and try it out. Can you please tell me more about it.

                          Comment


                          • It is a MDS pn 5520
                            https://www.google.com/search?q=msd+...iw=934&bih=516

                            Comment


                            • That is mysterious to me. The coil I have only works with the plasma when I have the diode arranged so that the HV would have to be positive. Maybe it is negative at first, then goes positive - would that even happen. I don't know why my Mallory coil works with the diode like that, but it does.

                              My shop is a mess so I can't find it now - trying to frame in a wall and hand drywall but I'll look later to see if there is a specific model # that maybe no long continued - not sure.

                              But if you can disassemble a coil, is there any reason you can't get HV+ with your coils that you show in this post?

                              Originally posted by ThankyouBedini View Post
                              Ignition Coil Polarity.

                              Hi plasma lovers!
                              For the longest time, I have been trying to get hold of an ignition coil that can deliver a HV (+) positive
                              It has not been easy, but I know it must be possible!
                              OK, so I have called Mallory, and they have told me on two different times that all of their coils are of HV - (negative).
                              Aaron said that he has a coil from Mallory that is HV +, and here is a link to it.
                              I have a similar looking coil, and that is HV negative.
                              Now I am thinking that it must be possible to open the coil up and maybe change the polarity.
                              The I want HV+ is because I want to experiment with booster caps, and very big plasma. I would be forever thankful if somebody could lead me to HV+.
                              Aaron Murakami





                              You never change things by fighting the existing reality. To change something, build a new model that makes the existing model obsolete. ― Richard Buckminster Fuller

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by maxc View Post
                                You can take the top of a accel super coil and change the polarity. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/acc-140001/overview/
                                Thanks for the tip on that coil, if they can just be opened with the 4 screws, then that makes it easy.
                                Aaron Murakami





                                You never change things by fighting the existing reality. To change something, build a new model that makes the existing model obsolete. ― Richard Buckminster Fuller

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X